1998 Corvette,parking brake not holding till last notch, even then not good. Disassembled to adjust. Brake shoes are tight to rotor. Does this mean the cable needs to be replaced ? What is involved in replacing cable ?

 

I don't have an answer, my 99 is similar. Curious to hear any solutions. The ratchet mechanism beneath the handle is supposed to auto-adjust. But maybe the cable is stretched to the point it can no longer adjust???

Another thought is the wheel cylinder in the brake mechanism has gone bad. This is the part the expands the two shoes inside the drum. It would be inexpensive to replace these, but a PITA.

 

The adjuster pawl freezing in place in the brake handle is pretty common, keeping the cable from adjusting as it's supposed to. Pretty easy to find write ups here and on the interweb on cleaning and lubricating the pawl:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-pic-s-2.html
The actuators in each brake are quite different than general wheel cylinders, entirely mechanical with no hydraulics. Most parking brake hardware kits include all the components likely to need replacement in the actuator. It's been a while since I went through mine, but I almost think you could rebuild the actuators without removing the shoes -- you do not want to remove the shoes! Those retention springs have literally dozens of threads over time just in how bad they are to re-install. The threads are not wrong.

 

They aren't too hard to install. You do need the correct tool. Get yourself a hook or a piece of metal bent 90 degrees at the end. Use the tool to grab the spring and set it into place. When you do get around to adjusting the parking brake skip trying to adjust the pawl by hand. Go ahead and get both set of shoe installed and put the rotors over them. Don't put the calipers brackets or calipers back on yet. Instead use lug nuts and maybe some washers to hold the rotors in place. Then cycle the parking brake several times to allow the self adjusting pawl to do its magic. When you're happy with it reinstall the brackets and calipers.

edit: this works best with a new set of rotors and shoe. Rotors and shoes sizes vary. Measure the shoes and match them up to the rotors. Rotors are side specific. The shoes can be installed on either side.

 

This post is spot on. I struggled for while until I figured out the “hook tool” was needed. I had a cheap tool in my toolbox which fit the bill perfectly. Now I’m not intimidated to do this job again.

 

Thank you for that. I have the same issue, hopefully this is all it is.

 

Start with degreasing and putting new grease on the hand brake pawl and see where that gets you.

 

Having recently repaired my own inopp parking brake as part of a larger brake job to pass inspection...Many of the suggestions mentioned thus far are spot on. End of the day...the design is the same GM has been using for decades...Two shoes on a pawl...with a star bit adjuster lol. The mistake a lot of rookies make is thinking each click-tick moves the shoes out a bunch. Nope...you may have to click that som-a-bitch 16 times before you get any real movement. If you have disassembled the adjuster before you'd see what I mean...there is a MILE of adjustment built in from a dead stop. For me it was easy because I broke all my stuff down, cleaned, and re-greased it [old dried up grease can make it a bear to get the star wheel to move]. If you can get the star wheel to move here is what I suggest:

• Get you a nice wide and beefy flat blade screw driver. You dont need the tool perse. Just a screw driver that can get you some leverage if you need it.
• Get up in the air. Make sure the parking brake is not appplied...DUH!!! Wheel off...caliper slung to side...caliper bracket off. While at this point...as Vettess said...probably should just pop new rotors on as your already there.
• Inspect the shoes. It will be easy to see if they are worn. If there is meat...your good. If its flat as a table...your work just increased lol
• with the rotor off...see if you can get the star wheel to move in BOTH directions...and how easy it is to move in either direction. If it moves good...start adjusting. If the wheel screw is way in keep going in the direction you started...if it bottoms out...you know you went the wrong way and go back the other way and CONTINUE that way remembering that way is expanding.
• When you think your close...you wont be...slip the rotor over the shoes. If she goes on and off with no drag...keep click-ticking and sliping the rotor on and off.
• When you slide the rotor on...AND FEEL SOME RESISTANCE putting the rotor on and taking it off...you are in the ball park. Spin one lug nut on to keep the rotor in place and give the rotor a spin. You should hear friction. If you do...GREAT...apply 4-5 more clicks in the expanding direction.
• Moment of truths...yank that parking brake up and walk back to the rotor with the lug nut...try to spin the bitch. If she planted...your done. Move on to the next wheel.

Kind of an annoying process...but it gets it done. 8/10 of the parking brakes i've revived over my career were just out of adjustment and not cable related. In this world of Pads and Calipers, not many younger techs understand how DRUM braking systems work. Its Fred Flinstone tech, but pretty simple to troubleshoot and correct if you understand the moving parts and theory behind it. I demand a working parking brake as...in a total brake failure...its your parachute of sorts And the beauty of it is...it will NEVER fail like hydraulics will if adjusted correctly.

Good luck,

Joe