When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Is there any new information about those BTR canted valve heads? I haven't found any since they teased it last Spring.
I heard release end of this month with VERY appealing initial pricing...supposedly on par or slightly less than current big name offerings. Rumor has it they will offer a "porters head" and a "as-cast" head. Porters head will allow people to work some magic on them as they see fit.
I don't know any specific details from a technical standpoint yet (chamber volume, valve angle/ valve size etc). Knowing BTR, it's going to be a hit.
Latest change was I reconnected the PS valve cover to the air bridge. I have left the CC outlet vented with the rag at the end.
Still collecting what seems to be mostly condensation/water. However the CC outlet hose seems to be soaking up twice as much "junk" collecting in the rag. Nothing serious to drip off but thedirty area on the rag is twice as large as before.
150 mi on this latest test. So far oil still seems to remain full. End goal will be to get back to the original routing where the CC outlet is connected back to the intake manifold.
The more I think, I'm still lost on how THAT much oil got into the intake and the CC didn't catch it.
Last edited by smitty2919; Jan 9, 2025 at 08:25 AM.
I'm gonna go ahead and say this is mostly resolved for now. Car got an oil change and then put away for the winter here in NKY. We just got 8 inches and more on the way tomorrow....going to be a while until the car comes out to play again.
From my experience by the time 3k rolled around I was a quart low . In your case i would think about your piston rings . Or inspect your intake either it’s blow by or seep .
Snow melted and have got another 150mi on since the oil change.
I also updated the CC outlet to have a breather right off the can vs running a tube to the front with a rag zip tied. I didn’t want to deal with a mess putting a breather at the end of the hose.
Checked oil and it’s still at the top dot. No consumption visible and also noticeable less black soot on the tips. 👍
Look up wild catch can by Mighty Mouse give you proper crank case ventalation and reduces blow by it’s a little expensive but was worth it. It gets installed from where your oil cap is . Also the can gets mounted at the lower driver side bumper area so you it goes down not over or side to side near set up and it works
Look up wild catch can by Mighty Mouse give you proper crank case ventalation and reduces blow by it’s a little expensive but was worth it. It gets installed from where your oil cap is . Also the can gets mounted at the lower driver side bumper area so you it goes down not over or side to side near set up and it works
Interesting, I looked it up and it says NOT for road racing applications. My assumption by the name that it's for the extreme condition etc lol. I don't road race but I do autocross where the car sees 2nd gear high rpm under acceleration and a lot of engine braking.
I have not done a compression test. I did check two cylinders for leakdown.
Cyl 6 was maybe 13% and Cyl3 was perfect.
I realized I needed to rotate motor for each cyl to be TDC but unable to get a socket/wrench on crank bolt with ATI damper and steering rack in the way so I didn’t do all 8 cylinders.
Doesn’t a leakdown and compression test for same thing just using different tools? Can you pass compression but fail leakdown?
Hold the throttle to the floor and just crank the car. Holding the throttle to the floor stops the fuel flow. I believe it is called "Clear Flood Mode."
Hold the throttle to the floor and just crank the car. Holding the throttle to the floor stops the fuel flow. I believe it is called "Clear Flood Mode."
