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How much easier is this install compared to the original ATI design? When will the kits be available? I am also interested in the dyno numbers if you've done them already. Thanks
Suggestion 2: Metal pipe for the blower intake. The plastic bridge rubs and raises the right-front corner of the hood.
I have that Halltech filter on my car. If positioned just right, it still rubs a bit, but doesn't push the hood up at all. with the new intercooler it shouldn't touch at all.
Andy, I got the blow-off flange I needed and was about to weld it to the top of the intercooler. Is this a mistake?
It will bolt on a bone stock LS1 without problems. It should make around 500 RWHP reliably. Add heads, cam, headers, etc, and up the boost and 600 RWHP can be had . You're pushing the limits of a stock short block at or near this level, though.
The only addition that I would suggest with any blower install is a Racetronix high performance fuel pump. ($299)
A nice addition ais a dual gauge pod with fuel pressure and boost gauges.
Block trader- It is best to mount the BOV as close to the blower as possible, but it will work just fine at the intercooler.
It's the Halltech air bridge, not the filter that gives more clearance. The new intercooler definately helps, too.
Not trying to reinvent the wheel on a such already simple system but my engineer butt is just curious.
If the lower tank of the IC is turned 180 degree so that the inlet faces the passenger side, it will shorten the intake path. Now, is that possible without cutting/replacing/moving a whole bunch of stuff ?
For the $4995 on the D1 system does that include a computer tuner to get the car running properly? Do you think this is a DIY setup for the avergage guy to perform at home?
This sure is an attractive package you have here. GREAT JOB!! :cheers:
Andy,
How do you find the time to do everything? You must eat, sleep, & live at your shop!
What's the "out the door" cost of the 500hp system on a 2003 LS1?
Andy
You are THE MAN!!! :smash: :smash: :hurray: Great work! :thumbs:
This is the system that I want for my ZO6!
One suggestion that I have is: Have you considered an electronically adjustable Blow Off Valve or Boost regulator valve? Seems like it would make tuneing a bit easier.
The radiator is laid down in order to retain the dual fans. It's actually pretty easy. The lower bar that supports the radiator is sliced out with a Sawzall, moved forward and welded back in. That part takes less than an hour. The assembly is a bolt in. If you wanted to go back to stock, a new support can be had for about $175 from the dealer. It's just easier to modify it in the car than bolt in an already modified part.
The lower AC line is pliable enough to be stretched into place. No evacuation is required. The radiator hoses are extended. I supply the new hoses and couplers. I also supply a black ABS shroud that covers the intercooler and plumbing. It also contains the air to force it through the radiator rather than allow it to go over the top.
The front brake ducts are also retained.
All in all, it's a very simple system. And the price is right. :smash:
Everything sounds really great! I don't know if you mentioned it or not, but does the complete kit come with a computer tuner or anything to set the car up once the blower is installed?
I'm interested in the D1 setup with your 6 rib pulleys and Bosch BOV, figure this blower is a better "base" to work off of as more mods come down the road. :yesnod:
I have a friend that owns a welding shop..... Would it be alright to lay down the radiator first, then proceed with the rest of the s/c install at home? I didn't know if the rad. mod would prevent me from driving the car unless the complete s/c kit was installed @ the same time.
Andy, I am interested in one of these kits. I am running 11 to 1 compression and I am worried about running to much boost. I only want to run 5 lbs. I have been told that would be alright for me to run on my motor. Will either of these kits run that low of boost or am I better off going w/ a magnuson? Thanks, Kaley