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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 07:43 AM
  #61  
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I am still trying to figure out whatever happened to the OP of this thread ... "PrisonBob".

He posted his question back on 14 Mar, but never came back here to this thread he started, even after all the advice he has received here.

Maybe they put him in Solitary Confinement and he's not allowed to use his computer anymore?
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 09:16 AM
  #62  
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 10:28 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Not So Fast
[QUOTE;1594343331]

Good to know, I was under the impression that it was needed for access, so I assume that meant re-alignment
NSF

PS and when someone throws out the term "buddy" to me it usual means we aint, maybe I'm taking it the wrong way but that's the way I feel
I never called you Buddy. Where I grew up, almost fighting words if used in person.

Unless your name is Buddy

Last edited by HBsurfer; Mar 21, 2017 at 10:29 AM.
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 10:53 AM
  #64  
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I think NSF was referring to someone other than you.
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 11:00 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by HBsurfer
I never called you Buddy. Where I grew up, almost fighting words if used in person.

Unless your name is Buddy

Sometimes you need to assume good intentions not automatically bad. Especially in the internet world. If you want to fight or really fight at all over a term let alone the term Buddy, you need to mature up a little. It's not worth it.
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 11:13 AM
  #66  
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[QUOTE=irok;1594345867]
Originally Posted by Not So Fast

GM method of doing job lowers the cradle for clearance.cradle lowered and repositioned means it should have wheel alignment.GM service manual stipulates alignment should be done.lot of people and shops skip that step.if not concerned with tire life do as you please.lots on here claim to be more informed than GM
See the last paragraph of post #59, right above yours?

Some people say you can mark everything before loosening the cradle/suspension and just put it back to the same positions when finished.

I don't know what technique our dealer used, but it worked for me and that's their normal technique.
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 11:57 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
Because it's free. Covered under GMPP extended warranty, $0 ded.

My initial "POS" lasted over 85k miles, and AFAIK none of the other C6's in our club, ranging from garage queens up to 100k miles, have been replaced.
The "free" one might end up costing you later on. I had mine replaced for free twice by the dealer before I ended up replacing the HB with a Powerbond UD pulley. Three GM harmonic balancers failed on me. All free.

Although you might get lucky and not have to replace it again.
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 06:40 PM
  #68  
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The extended warranty goes for another 42k miles.
If the new HB doesn't fail while I have the car, it costs me nothing.
If the new HB fails within that time, it still costs me nothing.
If it fails after that and I still have the car, replacing it costs me only the same as replacing it last summer would have cost. None of the dealers in my area would install an aftermarket unit under warranty, even if I buy it and give it to them.

The GM balancers are failing more often than they should, but as mentioned in post #59, the percentage of failures in my area seems to be fairly low.

Is it possible GM fixed this problem on the C7?
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 08:35 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by NoRuls
No sarcasm here. Google Paul Koerner, he's the best in my book
Koerner has been cited many times, teaches courses, makes vids for educaational purposes, etc. Yes, he's quite well known.
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 08:52 PM
  #70  
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Has anyone on here done this job simply by putting the car on ramps? Just wondering if it is feasible to do it that way.
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 08:55 PM
  #71  
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Yes easy.
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 09:42 PM
  #72  
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2010 chirp and wobble did 10% underdrive ati!
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 10:32 PM
  #73  
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Do you need a different belt if you use the ATI damper ?
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 10:49 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by tri08sbc
Do you need a different belt if you use the ATI damper ?
Not if you buy a stock sized ATI. Same belt size. If you want under drive, you need a shorter belt. If your car is mostly stock and staying that way, go with the stock size.
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 12:40 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by HBsurfer
Not if you buy a stock sized ATI. Same belt size. If you want under drive, you need a shorter belt. If your car is mostly stock and staying that way, go with the stock size.
Good to know. Stock for now. Thanks
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Old Mar 28, 2017 | 02:47 PM
  #76  
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[QUOTE=HBsurfer;1594343331]
Originally Posted by Not So Fast

Just an FYI, I didn't drop my steering rack. Just loosened it and moved it out of the way. I did not do an alignment. That was 15,000 miles ago and the tires are wearing perfectly and the car tracks straight. Alignment didn't seem needed to me. Maybe I just got lucky. I honestly don't know, but my car was and is fine.

Just lowered steering rack? Any tips on what you did to make enough room without removing the rack? I need to do a replacement and everything I've seen so far says to remove rack. Your method sounds promising!
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Old Mar 30, 2017 | 03:11 PM
  #77  
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[QUOTE=719c6;1594403336]
Originally Posted by HBsurfer


Just lowered steering rack? Any tips on what you did to make enough room without removing the rack? I need to do a replacement and everything I've seen so far says to remove rack. Your method sounds promising!
Any more info on not removing rack to access HB
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