The 10" SPAL pusher fan #0374 draws 6.4amps and moves 650cfm

Link... http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30100374

 

For those of you who still have doubts in what I am saying maybe if you see it for yourself you will believe. You can control IAT's;

http://www.killerchiller.com/video.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73Ql84-iz6I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=askw2...eature=related

 

One more

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cS5jTxTzwQY&NR=1

 

How large is the cooling block? Where would you mount it? This will need custom a/c hoses right? A/C would need to be evac'd, vac'd down and then recharged right? Nothing is ever free...what does this do to your cabin vent temps? This puts all of the heat into the a/c condensor right? and then through the radiator? Is there a kit for the C6 Vette? What does it cost?

 

 

It is a little bit bigger than a large brick, 12-14" long wrapped in an industrial insulation.

There are two spots I am going to look at, I want to mount it inside the foam bumper, the mustang guys use a small saw to cut out a small section in the foam to better insulate it and to hide it. What I am afraid of though is running the in and out water lines and freon lines and can I make them fit.

Worst case I am going to mount it right below where the current H/E is located. I will make a bracket and bolt it into the same place that your H/E bolts to at the bottom. I will make a 90 degree bracket and mount it to that so it will sit on the bottom of the intake opening. This will do two things, it will not block the oil cooler, radiator or a/c core, and I will get rid of the H/E all together and add the 3 gallon insulated tank in place of the battery, this will more than make up for the water lost when I remove the H/E. On a hot day the H/E will actually heat the water and counter act the killer chiller, street temps can get well over 125 degrees.

Joe at KC will have to make the hoses to fit the vettes fittings and with the proper lenght
but he is more than willing because he wants to get into the GM market.

All you do is go to your local a/c shop to remove the r134a and then install the system, once done you evac the system again to get any moisture out (you can use the Harbor Frieght vaccum system, its like 10 bucks and runs on your shop compressor). Then fill the system with freon and PAC oil.

Now from what I am told and what I researched this new "industrial 12a" http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm is colder and more efficient than 134a or r 12 so it makes up for any loss in cabin temp. I can't say 100% for sure but it seems to work, one video I found showed the temps out of the vents of a mustang at 39 degrees, plenty cold. And on a cold day you can still run the a/c and turn the heat up and it warm the cabin without effecting the KC.

They have diagrams on the site that show the routing of the freon, I believe is goes to the KC first and then to the evap core, then to the condensor and back to the compressor.

Joe offered to make me a kit at cost (around 400) and I would post pictures and results back to him, you can call him and tell him you spoke with me, BJ.

For me it is such a simple/stupid setup it surprises me it is not more main stream, as you can see on the site you bring the freon in on one side and out the other and the water goes through it just like a radiator or H/E. You saw the video of the chevy truck and the temps got down to 42 degrees!!! 10 degrees above freezing!!! I think the video with the mustang at 18 psi shows it all when you see the temps pre and post I/C. I never want to endorse something I haven't tried yet but so many others seem to love it, do a google search and you will see. Hope this helps.

 

That is because it doesn't really work for anything other than remove some heat when the car is idling... I pasted the math here a while ago when you suggested it first. As you'll recall, the gist of it is that the amount of heat a blower is putting out under boost is equal to MANY times the maximum cooling output of any automotive A/C system.

I hate to fall back on this old maxim, but I'm going to: Supercharged cars have been around since 1921. Air Conditioned cars have been around since 1939. For every penny that was spent developing this system, you can be sure GM, Ford, and others have spent hundreds of millions of dollars designing intercooling systems for OEM applications. If it really worked, it'd be standard... In fact, Ford did develop a system exactly like this one, but it never made it into production... That should tell you something

By all means, do try it out and report your results (I believe that's how I ended my last post about this... Figured you'd have tried it by now?). But if you're wondering why no one else is using it, that's the reason why: it is not as great as you might think it is...

 

Do ford, chevy's, and dodges come with meth kits? since they don't does that mean they don't work? The bottom line is it cools better than any H/E, and with over 3 gallons of chilled water in the system it is going to cool for very long periods of time. The one video shows the guy in 95 degrees and it still keeps the temp at 55. There are many mustang guys using this and they love it, I don't see why everyone is such a skeptic

 

For the cost it's sure worth a try! All the vids I watched it seemed to do exactly as advertised! Be very interested in seeing your results if/when you get yours installed. Thanks for great post and info... It sure would be a great solution to a lot of IAT problems...

 

Anything in front of the radiator will only add to making the car run hotter on those really hot days so this not only gets rid of the restriction the H/E brings, it let's the intercooler (except on a roadcourse) work better than ANY H/E ever could w/ no added restriction.


Btw... IAT's don't just get colder when the car is moving because the H/E is getting cold air across it. It's actually because cool air is being sucked in faster (doesn't have the time to heatsoak). Seriously, the coolant in the reservoir doesn't cool down fast enough to reflect the IAT changes we see from stopped at a light to what's seen at 25mph right afterwards. You can't fix the shortcommings of the I/C but you can make it as cold as possible and I like it!

It may not keep it from heatsoaking but it'll make sure the heated air see's a nice cool I/C. I'm pretty sure it'll be an improvement and just as good as putting ice in the reservoir.

 

Point of curiosity, Say it’s one of those cold (40 degree) rainy mornings. Your windows are fogging up because of the condensation on goes the defroster. For the defroster to remove the condensation the a/c compressor comes on. In theory if the Killer Chiller can drop the IAT’S 55 degrees and you just started up cold do we have a problem or just make damn sure you have good anti-freeze protection.

 

Thats a good point, and yes you do add anti freeze to the I/C system. On a cold day I would suspect it would keep the water temp close to freezing, of course you could always turn the a/c off for a few minutes to bring it back up if you want. The kit does come with a temp gauge.

 

My thoughts exactly, and the opposite is true with KC, the water continues to cool as you are sitting in traffic.

I read a post from a guy who took his lightning to watkins glen and drove with the KC off first for 20 minutes and then 20 minutes with the KC on, it droped his IAT's over 30 degrees throughout the run. His water temp never got above 99 degrees. With 3.5 gallons of chilled water in your system, properly insultated it could go a long time without heating the water, and on the street you would never have a chance to heat up the water with 10 second short blasts, even with the s/c is heat soaked. The owner of KC said it best, with this system its like driving in the winter time all the time.

 

Oh, they tried. As a matter of fact the first turbocharged car ever made had it. Google "Oldsmobile JetFire Turbo Rocket". 1962... It failed miserably.
Methanol is a big pain in the butt. You have this exotic fuel that is not sold anywhere in the country but at race tracks, and you have to keep watching it and topping it off and monitoring the level. Then, if a nozzle clogs up, the pump dies, or the methanol runs out, your car will AT BEST run out of power completely, and at worse your engine will be trashed. You're damn right no OEM would ever run that! Can you imagine if after you spent $120,000 on your brand new Chevy ZR-1 the dealer told you: "Oh yeah, don't forget you need to be adding methanol to it constantly, otherwise it won't run right?". You answer: "Erm, but where do I get Methanol from?" Dealer: "You can buy it right here!". How convenient .

And, mind you, I run methanol on my car, so you can't say I am biased.

 

These are good "real world" results... Did he run with the H/E?

 

If I remember correctly he did have an H/E but he covered it up in foam to insulate it.

 

Looks like I'm not the only one using a shroud on my supercharger air intake!...my LS3







Some guy named "Lingenfelter"...application is a ZR1

 

Great minds think alike

 

Have you had an opportunity to determine if it is helping the IATs?

 

At the same time that I added the shroud I also opened the radiator baffle to allow more cool air to reach the intake and I changed coolant in the supercharger system to straight distilled water with a bottle of Water Wetter and I also changed back to a 160 thermostat. I haven't driven the car enough to quantify the improvement but it is better...I just can't give you a x % better. I still plan to add fans to the front of the heat exchanger before I call it quits though.