The settings on that dial should have no effect unless the BAP is controlling the voltage to the fuel pump. What that dial does is control the amount of voltage increase to the pump. The BAP is activated by a boost referenced switch under the hood. Typically they are calibrated to close the circuit at around 3psi of boost. Unless that switch has closed the electrical circuit to the BAP, that dial should have no effect!

If you are certain that your fuel economy "at cruise" is being affected by the settings on that dial, then it is likely your BAP is not set up correctly and MAY be feeding increased voltage to the pump all of the time. Contrary to what was stated by another poster above, running the pump at 20v WILL affect the pressure at the fuel rails and there is only so much that your fuel trims can compensate for. A permanently installed fuel gauge would prove this out.

Have you taken a look at how your BAP is set up? Do you know where that boost switch is located under the hood? Have you put a multimeter across the two connections on the switch to make sure the circuit is not closed at idle/all of the time? That switch should be marked with the pressure at which it closes the circuit...typically around 3lbs. The KB BAP is sold in two configurations, one for FI applications and one for normally aspirated. The NA kit has a vacuum operated switch and would not work properly for your supercharged car. Are you confident the BAP you purchased had the correct vacuum/boost switch?

FYI one of the most popular forum s/c vendors recommends disabling that voltage adjustment dial completely. They recommend you clip the wires and solder them together to eliminate the variable voltage.

P.S. Are you interested in selling that unused Z06 fuel pump from your 1591 kit?

 

PowerLabs & Motorhead-47 - On the task of helping as usual - Thank you much!

I am trying to reconcile your inputs as both mention results which I am experiencing.

Tune: My tuner applied a tailored profile (not the 1591) to better accomodate lenghty drives at elevated load (German Autobahn).

BAP: At Dyno/tune time the tuner deemed best set the BAP on 30 (30% voltage boost). I subsequently noticed the big difference in gas consumption and for experiment sake started changing the dial and monitor the fuel consuption at equal load/speed in HGW and indeed noticed a dramatic delta in consumption between 30 and 10 vs let's say 0 and 10.

May be on to something here. At purchase time I noticed just one type and went for it. It is vacuum operated and the switch is properly installed in the SC unit as per previous posts. It does audibly work on boost because I can ear it engaging (especially when set on 30 and above of course) when I press the gas pedal for acceleration.

I was planning to keep it for spare and if I cannot rationalize this BAP thing I may go ahead and use it for less worrisome nights :-)

That bluetooth ECU monitor is looking the more appealing now..

 

Not much. As per last post I left that to a proven pro. I could try the 1591 default though and see. Of course I'd like to switch between the two and I am not sure I can do that.

Ultimately I trust the tune though. This is maybe about setting BAP to let's say 10 for HGW calm cruising. And 30 as per tuner default setting for more spirited driving.

Just trying to figure out what I thought was easy engine correlations...ain't so and I respect this forum contributors the the more!

 

The BAP will kick in way too early if you are using the NA version.

Here is the list of part numbers from KB if you still have the box/documentation....

BOOST-A-PUMP

** KB89066 KIT 229.00 BOOST-A-PUMP 20 AMP (ALL VEHICLES - NORMALLY ASPIRATED)

** KB89067 KIT 229.00 BOOST-A-PUMP 20 AMP (ALL VEHICLES - SUPERCHARGED / TURBOCHARGED)

** KB89068 KIT 249.00 BOOST-A-PUMP 40 AMP (ALL VEHICLES - NORMALLY ASPIRATED)

** KB89069 KIT 249.00 BOOST-A-PUMP 40 AMP (ALL VEHICLES - SUPERCHARGED / TURBOCHARGED)

 

From the invoice it indicates a KB89067 (the right one) but I wonder because it does feel as engaging way to early at the minimum push of pedal. Non sure I have the disassenbly time to do a physical check on the sticker on the actual unit in front of the the rear weel.

I think I can live with BAP set at 10 with the understanding that when I set to 30 and above I do get considerable more gas consumption because

a. I may actually have a NA BAP and it engages too early and provides more fuel to the rails and screws up somewhat with the needed configuration and thus more consumption

or b. I have the right BAP but given the "special" tuning it just sucks a lot of gas which the BAP is providing best at 30 but I am somewhat "starving" it at 10 thus less consumption at cruise and seemingly good response at WOT.

Reads like a loop I know. I just leave it at 10 (3000 miles so far) and look into the science of injection/pressure and associated measuring gear later on..

UNLESS of course I am playing with fire and risk a engine blowout of sort?

 

Does anyone know of a shop in the Sacramento CA area that sells and installs the eforce for the LS2's yet?

 

I dont know if they have one in stock, but I would trust A&A 100% for an install.

http://www.aacorvette.com/

 

Sacramento to Oxnard is a pretty good haul but those guys definitely know their business! http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...low-along.html

 

I should have a couple this week...

 

Road trip......... A&A did my install of the E-Force. Review the attached links. Then call Steve and make an appointment

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...low-along.html



http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=136314

 

I am having mine installed in 2 weeks at ECS. I'm pretty jacked.

 

Hey Sgt, what RWHP/RWTQ did you endup with? What are your pros and cons to this SC?

 

Very interested in knowing how it goes because I'm scheduled at ECS middle of Sept for an E Force install....

 

First off the car was is stock with the exception of B&B fusion exhaust controlled by the LG Man ****. It’s a 1590 kit with a 3.5 pulley and Boost-A-Pump. Andy at A&A tuned it on the conservative side due to the 91 octane gas in Kalifornia.
The out of the box edelbrock tunes are just plain bad and edelbrock is of little or no HELP.
With that being said, we end up with 506 RWT / 513 RWHP and it runs like a scalded ape pulling trees out of the jungle from 1600 - 6500 RPM from the torque.
Yes, heat reduces the power if you get stuck sitting in traffic but after 15 to 20 minutes of 50 plus MPH all is well and the 30 to 50 horses lost return to the barn.
Other than that no ill effects just hard on tires.

 

Sgt Thanks,,, Sounds like you're having a lot fun with yours.

 

Sorry, my unit should be in within 2 weeks. I am hoping they can get me in because I live locally. They mentioned your car when I was speaking with them. I believe your hardware is there, correct?

 

I just noticed that this thread has reached >25,000 "VIEWS"...guess a couple of you guys out there are interested in this supercharger!

 

There's interest (as it should be)....and some are looking for the perfect angle for a "heat soaking blow torch" jab. Some things will never change

 

You and I need to have a beer some day!

 

me too, me too!