still pretty new to these kits and I am not at the shop right now - I'll check out the data sheets and post up tomorrow with more specifics.....it sure does run well, though!

 

Thanks for sharing! Still waiting on my kit to hit the driveway....1591 on order!

With or without fuel pump swap?

 

really bone stock and yes, the underhood look is very, very clean.

 

That is a nice flat broad torque curve.


I'd love to see the before dyno too.

 

Thanks again Charles! let us know if you can find out the pulley size.

 

inquiring minds want to know

 

I seen it posted but with no reply... would the ls3 charger work on an ls2 in l92 heads

 

Yes. I see no reason why it wouldn't.

 

Yes

 

You can get the covers seperate to "complete" your kit.

 

That is a sweet street setup

 

Did they swap the pump or not?

 

...waiting for Charlie to post more details on his install but it's my understanding (from GM Tech data) that on M6 cars you can R&R the driver's side tank without dropping the rear cradle. I've read the instructions and it "sounds" pretty straightforward to drop the tank.

"I'm sitting in front of an electronic copy of the 2009 GM Service information and it looks like the procedures for removing the left tank do not call for dropping the rear cradle IF you have the manual 6-speed. But for the automatic transmission cars it reads "If automatic transmission, remove the driveline support assembly. Refer to Driveline Support Assembly Replacement."

Here it is word for word...

Fuel Tank Replacement - Left Side

Removal Procedure

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection.
2. Drain the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank Draining.
3. Remove the left rear wheelhouse panel. Refer to Rear Wheelhouse Panel Liner Replacement.
4. Remove both mufflers. Refer to Exhaust Muffler Replacement - Left Side and Exhaust Muffler Replacement - Right Side.
5. If automatic transmission, remove the driveline support assembly. Refer to Driveline Support Assembly Replacement.
6. Disconnect the fuel fill hose and recirc line from the fill pipe.
7. Disconnect the fuel pump jumper harness connector.
8. Disconnect the fuel feed pipe at the rear of the left fuel tank. Refer to Plastic Collar Quick Connect Fitting Service.
9. Cap the fuel pipes to prevent fuel system contamination.
10. Loosen the fuel tank strap in order to drop the tank approximately 1 inch.
11. Disengage the crossover tube connector position assurance (CPA) retainer by pulling the tab outward and rotate.

Note: The crossover tube CPA is released when the latch disengages from the tank connection groove.

12. Rotate the collar counterclockwise to disengage.
13. Disconnect the crossover tube from the left fuel tank.

Note: Take care not to disturb the internal O-rings in the fuel tank connections.

14. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) crossover pipe quick connect fitting at the left fuel tank.
15. Cap the EVAP pipes to prevent system contamination.
16. Remove the fuel tank strap mount bolts.
17. Remove the fuel tank strap from the vehicle.
18. Remove the fuel tank.

 

Really doesn't sound that hard at all, I am sure it will be a tight fit but all things considered should just be a couple of hours.

 

That was my thought after reading the procedures. Doesn't sound that hard. I'll know for sure in about 10 days!....waiting on Edelbrock to ship to AA and then AA to ship to me....

 

Great info! I can't wait to see how you do with this setup. I'd really like to do this.

 

Well I had to check it out for myself. Today I drove to the shop that had installed one, to see it in person and to talk about getting one installed for myself.

Now, for those that wanted to know what shop,,,there were only 2 shops listed in Michigan...and its in Sterling Heights.

Which brings me to comment on the remaining shops within 250 miles of me had Mustangs all over their website....I'll pass on them for now.

The shop owner and I talked for at least a half hour and I toured the facility. He showed me the mustang dyno sheet and I remember seeing 504 rwhp from the base model e force (bone stock). He then asked me if I wanted him to start up the car with the E force on it. Ummmm YESSSSS, with the hood open standing next to the car I couldn't tell any difference than that of a stock engine . It is undetectable even w/ hood open.

Edelbrock warranty = only good if left stock, CAI or headers will even void their warranty so I'm told . If I do this, I have a gen2 snake charmer new in box for sale $400 shipped.

Lastly, I told him that I am gonna sleep on it tonight and let him know if its a go tomorrow. Seriously on the fence right now.

 

Automatic or manual transmission car?

 

sorry bout that MN6 NPP Z51

 

Assuming a 12% drivetrain less tells me that Edelbrock's advertised 554 flywheel horsepower number is honest and maybe even slightly conservative. Do you know if the shop performed any of their own tuning or was it 100% via the Edelbrock handheld download?