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From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
What he describes sounds very repeat-able. What would you attribute the "hit brake...noise goes away" to?
I have no idea. That's why I didn't speculate on it. It could be that under deceleration the gear lash / rotor gap gets taken out by the constant load, but if that was the case the blower would go quiet when he downshifted and took his foot of the gas pedal. I just don't have enough information here to do any kind of diagnosis.
I have my brand new front drive Maggie TVS2300 sitting on my kitchen counter. It came in while I was out of town. I can put my hand in the t'body opening and hold on to the rotors while trying to turn the drive pulley. There's absolutely no slack in the drive system. Nothing like the earlier Maggies. If the EForce's drive is similar, I can't see where there would be any rotor knock from a rough running cam.
I have my brand new front drive Maggie TVS2300 sitting on my kitchen counter. It came in while I was out of town. I can put my hand in the t'body opening and hold on to the rotors while trying to turn the drive pulley. There's absolutely no slack in the drive system. Nothing like the earlier Maggies. If the EForce's drive is similar, I can't see where there would be any rotor knock from a rough running cam.
I believe it is the same TVS2300 rotor set in both superchargers...
OK, here it is. The sound quality is not the best from my phone but you can here it. I am in my driveway, you will hear it stop and start again. When it stops i am hitting the brake.
OK, here it is. The sound quality is not the best from my phone but you can here it. I am in my driveway, you will hear it stop and start again. When it stops i am hitting the brake.
I'm not going to be of any help from the videos. I can't pull any specific unusual sounds from the two clips....not enough fidelity for me. If I put my ear ON my supercharger head unit I can hear most of the same sounds that I hear in your videos.
If I force myself to listen closely I can almost convince myself I hear a header/exhaust leak but I wouldn't put any money on that.
I do like the sound beginning at about minute 1:45 in the second clip....sounds wicked!
Last edited by Motorhead-47; Dec 11, 2010 at 09:08 AM.
If I force myself to listen closely I can almost convince myself I hear a header/exhaust leak but I wouldn't put any money on that.
I was going to suggest that. After I had put headers on, and as I would slow down, I could hear a clicking sound coming through which I was told it was a leak from the header gasket.
If I remember correctly, wasn't it one of your friends who installed the unit? Perhaps he can detect where it's coming from.
I can't hear anything from the engine bay. It just sounds like a roots blower. I only hear it from the inside. Today I am going to the drags so I will see if I can get better audio of it
I believe it is the same TVS2300 rotor set in both superchargers...
Yes, I knew the rotors were the same, just wasn't sure about the drive. On the older Maggies, there's actually some slack between the drive pulley/input shaft and the drive gears. There doesn't seem to be anything like that on the TVS units though. It's amazing how slow you can turn the pulley and still feel air moving.
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Originally Posted by old motorhead
Yes, I knew the rotors were the same, just wasn't sure about the drive. On the older Maggies, there's actually some slack between the drive pulley/input shaft and the drive gears. There doesn't seem to be anything like that on the TVS units though. It's amazing how slow you can turn the pulley and still feel air moving.
The pulley is pressed and keyed into the shaft, which is in turn pressed and keyed into the gears. There can't be any slack there since those are parts that do not move relative to one another, ever.
The slack comes from the drive gears. There has to be some there since they need to expand to accomodate for thermal expansion, and it has a tendency to increase as the unit wears in... Those gears synchronize the rotors and keep them turning at the same speed and same relative spot to one another so that the lobes do not make contact.
Here is what they look like. This is on the back of an MP112, but all roots blowers look similar. You can actually see the gap where the teeth mesh, although it is the tooth-to-tooth clearance that you hear rattling:
This is a bit OT. I still do not understand why applying the brakes would have any effect on blower noise when the car is idling. Makes no sense to me.
Last edited by PowerLabs; Dec 11, 2010 at 02:59 PM.
The pulley is pressed and keyed into the shaft, which is in turn pressed and keyed into the gears. There can't be any slack there since those are parts that do not move relative to one another, ever.
The slack comes from the drive gears. There has to be some there since they need to expand to accomodate for thermal expansion, and it has a tendency to increase as the unit wears in... Those gears synchronize the rotors and keep them turning at the same speed and same relative spot to one another so that the lobes do not make contact.
Here is what they look like. This is on the back of an MP112, but all roots blowers look similar. You can actually see the gap where the teeth mesh, although it is the tooth-to-tooth clearance that you hear rattling:
This is a bit OT. I still do not understand why applying the brakes would have any effect on blower noise when the car is idling. Makes no sense to me.
I wonder what the dowel pins are used for that are on the gear on the right... Hmmmm. Do you think they might have something to do with the drive? They just might have a little "play" where they connect to the drive pulley housing.
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Originally Posted by old motorhead
I wonder what the dowel pins are used for that are on the gear on the right... Hmmmm. Do you think they might have something to do with the drive? They just might have a little "play" where they connect to the drive pulley housing.
I don't think so.
Last edited by PowerLabs; Dec 11, 2010 at 05:00 PM.
What he describes sounds very repeat-able. What would you attribute the "hit brake...noise goes away" to?
I saw this once, was helping tune a car and went the wrong way (brain fart)... Car bucked around 1000 RPM and supercharger was audibly louder, even at idle. Got tune straightened out and supercharger (centri) was back to normal. Hitting brake loads engine a little differently or smooths it out.
Not saying that is the case, but have seen cammed cars rattle supercharger gears pretty good.
I do think so. We'll agree to disagree on this one.
You win, the 3 pins locate and transfer energy from the drive coupler. The coupler is a spring dampened isolator between the drive pulley/shaft and the rotor asm. Its pretty much the same on the Zr1/CTS-Vs
Place your palm on the center of the unit and press down. Does the noise dissipate? I thought mine was chattering too much so stopped by Lingenfelter and had them give a listen. The folks thought the sound was normal but may be magnified by resonnance from the cover (I put mine on in February so they may have modified since). Lingenfelter had another in the shop and it sounded the same, just less pronounced. My sound may be different than yours though, can't hear it untiil car is warm and has no relation to braking (6 spd). Edelbrock said they considered a center stud. Anxious to see what you find out.
dw
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
A Mechanics' Stethoscope is an inexpensive way of identifying where noises are coming from... Might be worth a try; most auto parts stores carry one:
Fifteen bucks... Touch the probe on various parts of the engine and blower and you may be able to narrow down the general direction the noise is coming from