I just used some screen I found lying around the shop, and used windshield epoxy to hold it in place.

 

Ok first off I bought my car 4 years ago with cam, headers, and p1 procharger, putting out 600rwhp, the engine blew after 5000 miles of owning it. I had the engine completely rebuilt with all forged parts. I know the engine blew due to heating issues, which till now I still have not addressed. I recently upgraded the p1 procharger to a d1, and now I have to add meth because its putting out to much boost for the stock fuel pump. anyway normal driving I'm seeing oil temps in the 240 range, aggressive driving and its up to 280 I figure id better do something to fix this or I will be rebuilding the motor a 2nd time. the Dewitt with dual cooling fans claim to cut temps 40% anyone know if this is true? or waist of money?

 

40% no way.

Dewitts is a good upgrade and makes a difference. The dual fans do not cool as well as OEM. They are used if you need fans or fitment issues. The good fans that cool as good or better than OEM is the PWM fans or the d3 fans.

 

How do they even quantify cutting temps by 40%? 200* before means running 120* after? I mean that's 40% less right?

That's just a dumb way to look at it any way you cut it

 

Unreal, can you fit a stock fan and shroud on a cut down Dewitt's ?

 

Not that I know of. That is why they sell the dinky little dual fan setup, for the cut down ones. Cutdown is fine for a race car, that doesn't have AC, and just needs to make some passes down a track or 1/2 mile. If it is a street car, doing anything to remove cooling on a car that already has cooling issues is a bad bad idea.

 

You're exaggerating a little. I don't know if they are any better than the stock one would have been, but I have no problems with the dual spals on my car

 

Best case they are equivalent to the stock fan, not an upgrade (flow/cooling wise). You can argue they are an upgrade from an amp draw/fitment/etc standpoint.

I know when I had a full size dewitts with stock fan, then swapped the stock fan for the duals, the car ran 10+ degrees hotter. The downgrade in cooling was very noticeable.

 

Like I said, I don't know if better or worse because I changed so much at the same time. Just saying they do a decent job if everything else is in order.

 

True, they can work, and I made mine work for a long time too.

That being said, spending $400+ on it for an upgrade seems silly.

 

its 1000 for the setup i was looking at, radiator + dual fans.

 

Would get much better results with full size radiator, and spend the extra on shrouding, or oil cooler.

 

Unreal, if stock fan and radiator are hard to beat, then what real option do we have to help with cooling? The vararam made an existing problem worse for me. It gets up to 235+ in traffic with A.C. on. Cools down immediately after steady driving. I borrowed Tom's wand to clean the condenser but I doubt that'll solve it. What's the next logical step to correct this, get a new stock rad and fan?

 

Biggest problem with the dual spal fans is the paddle fans they are using. Any kind of restriction (like a thicker radiator and intercooler) and the cfm drops off dramatically. Replace the paddle fans with the curved fans and cfm goes up dramatically. Of course spal will only sell you the whole fan so you will have to buy 2 more fans and transfer them into the shroud.

I tried the 17" brushless and was not happy with it.

Always liked the way the dual spal shroud fit, but with the paddle fans, it was not cutting it. I went back to my dual spal shroud and mounted the 11" 2800HO fans in it. This thing really moves some air now and much quieter. I did have to go to dual fan controllers due to high amp draw from the HO fan but it is working fine. Was able to reduce the Fan PWM % quite a bit across the board. I think the standard curved blade fans P/N 30102157 would be a significant increase in flow over the paddle fans.

11" Spal fans CFM specs @ 25mm H20 static pressure

Paddle fan 420 CFM Each
Curved blade fan 760 CFM Each
2800 HO fan 1070 CFM Each

I have no idea what the actual static pressure is but 25mm H2O does seems like way too much, but was easy to find and convert using this point. I'm sure with a lesser restriction the difference would be less.

All I know is it is cooling a lot better now. Now I have to pull the fog lights out and install my new tranny cooler because of this thread, dang it.


DJ

 

DJ,

The D3 setup that is floating around here is a pretty cool and seems to flow great, but the price is a bit high. Seems they did what you're saying about taking the curved fans over the paddle fans.

 

Dewitts radiator helps.

Fan wise, the d3 setup or Joe has dual PWM setup that someone builds for him. Both work well. Both are $750+. It isn't cheap to get an actual upgrade.

 

I haven't taken it out of the box yet but I just had Dewitt's build a dual 11" brushless setup for my cut down radiator. I will update once I get it installed.

 

17" brushless fan working great for me, but if I was doing it again I'd go with D3 fans from what i've seen. notching the front radiator and adding shrouding on the sides made a noticeable difference too on my car at least.

 

Been saying for few years.... keeping the stock rad shroud is key. Never had heat problems. Just get tired of repeating it since nobody listens....LOL

 

Since I already had the dual spal setup, it was only another $260 for the 2800HO fans. I believe they are the same fans that D3PE uses on there shroud. They pretty much bolt in place of the original spal fans.

DJ