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OMG the more I read and price shop the more I don't even want to buy a set. Confused
I currently have a magnaflow cat back system now and was looking for a quality set of headers and x pipe.
My question is do I need high flow cats or off road pipe. (NY)
1 7/8 or 1 3/4 dia. and 2 1/2" or 3" on outlet. (what is the dia of the Magnaflow?)
Currently have a ECS 1200 head unit but am hopefully getting it changed out for a SL1500 and alky kit.
I don't think you can go wrong with ARH, Kooks or LG (posted in alphabetic order, not in preferential order). They'll all make similar power. The difference between 1 3/4 and 1 7/8 is very little, but as you're going for big power I'd opt for the 1 7/8. I went with high-flow cats but I live in the Republic of California.
I use the 1 3/4" Titanium Series headers on my ECS/RR powered LS3.
The difference between 1 3/4 and 1 7/8 is the larger primaries. You'll sacrifice a little bit of torque down low for more hp up higher in the rpm band.
The LG's are probably the best of both worlds. They use a 4" longer primary for more torque, but with the larger primaries they don't sacrifice as much up top.
And unless you just like smelling like gas all the time, you'll want the cats.
And keepin mind that NO headers (with or without cats) will pass FEDERAL emissions. To be completely legal you have to have stock cats in the stock location.
In NY its only a visual inspection. You need cats (or something that looks like cats) to pass. I have 1 7/8 ARH and am very satisfied with them. Well made.
Keeping in-mind the potential drawbacks of altering the OEM emissions system, I suggest you go with LG Pro long tube headers!
Originally Posted by haljensen
And keepin mind that NO headers (with or without cats) will pass FEDERAL emissions. To be completely legal you have to have stock cats in the stock location.
Originally Posted by moog5050
In NY its only a visual inspection. You need cats (or something that looks like cats) to pass. I have 1 7/8 ARH and am very satisfied with them. Well made.
That's funny....if something that looks like cats passes in NY. They must have some very well trained inspectors...money well-spent!
In NY its only a visual inspection. You need cats (or something that looks like cats) to pass. I have 1 7/8 ARH and am very satisfied with them. Well made.
It depends on the Inspector whether you get a sticker or not. If he's having a bad day or doesn't like 'Vettes you will fail the visual unless you have stock cats in the stock location. There are no aftermarket headers with or without cats that have a CARB exemption.
It's FEDERAL Law, not State law. States can be more restrictive than Federal but not less restrictive.
One difference I will note .... We recently, and I mean last week, sold a set of ARH to a customer who had Kooks. The Kooks were on there for 3 years (I think he said) and they had a light coating of rust on the flanges.
From what I am told the flange material is not 304 stainless on the Kooks and uses more pig iron in it and this is why is develops rust. ( correct me if I'm wrong). Not sure of the LG's.
ARH is 100% US made 304.
ARH also has a little more design into their merge collectors.
One difference I will note .... We recently, and I mean last week, sold a set of ARH to a customer who had Kooks. The Kooks were on there for 3 years (I think he said) and they had a light coating of rust on the flanges.
From what I am told the flange material is not 304 stainless on the Kooks and uses more pig iron in it and this is why is develops rust. ( correct me if I'm wrong). Not sure of the LG's.
ARH is 100% US made 304.
ARH also has a little more design into their merge collectors.
Hate to tell ya, but all of them will eventually develope some rust, even 304SS. I have some customers that daily drive their vettes, and when the headers are exposed to the crap that Oregon and other states use as a de-icer on our highways, which is a salt, the exhaust tubing will develope a surface rust. I had one come in last week for some work and I was very surprised to see the ARH headers that were about 19 months old looking the way they did. Mind you these headers probably had 40k miles on them in that amount of time and its driven in rain, sun whatever weather its the guys main transport. Either way I was suprised how they looked. This however is an isolated case, 99% of all the SS headers I see whether made by LG, Kooks or ARH didn't have much surface rust and only sported the typical heat discoloration of the tubing.
If the header manufacturers want to minimize any surface rust they should passivate the tubing and welds on their headers. Doing so will remove any free iron on the surface of the metal. We do this on all of our welds on our SS process piping in the paper mills I have worked in over the years. This prevents any adverse corrosion issues within the welds.
Wow, I've been running them for a number of years now and have never had them develop any rust, but I also keep them pretty clean and limit the amount of winter driving. Not sure if polishing helps, but I've always polished the stainless as well.
Wow, I've been running them for a number of years now and have never had them develop any rust, but I also keep them pretty clean and limit the amount of winter driving. Not sure if polishing helps, but I've always polished the stainless as well.
Don't get me wrong I love my ARH headers, in fact Nick is building me a set of 2' headers for the new engine. But, my X pipe which isn't coated has some degree of surface rust. Nothing serious at all, it comes right off with some elbow grease. It comes when the car is stored during the winter, damn moisture in the air during those wet months when humidity is at its highest. My garage floor sweats at time during the winter months, plus the wife drives in and out of the garage as she comes and goes for work. After this summer I hope that problem is to be resolved with a new 60x60 shop that I will build to take care of the HUGE front yard that I HATE mowing during the summer months
If you are polishing your pipes you are in essence removing any free iron that might be on the surface of the tubes, hence no rust showing up on your tubes.