Thanks Rob, actually, I'm just getting ready to drop the cradle for the first time as I am doing a T56 - TR6060 upgrade thanks to Mike at East Coast Performance. During one of my "Slick Shoes Siestas" I was checking out the bolts, nuts and washers that are supporting the cradle and got to wondering how much slop was in the bolt holes and how I was going to get everything back where it was. From what I can see, it doesn't look like I can scribe the edges of the cradle because they are not flush like the engine cradle is. Guess I will have to wing it like you did. I agree that this write up, along with the experience I got from doing my coil-overs, has been a big help.

BJK

 

Yeah definitely the best help I've come up with my searches, most guys I've talked to are in awe that you did this in a driveway on jack stands. If only we could combine a forum with a wiki and put the most helpful pictures and wite-ups into the wiki so we'd end up with a manual better than anything we could buy from GM and info better than we'd get from a blank check to our tuners.

 

Okay, so my concerns about getting the cradle reinstalled with out messing up the thrust angle were unfounded as there are guide pins just in front of the rear bolt holes. The pins can be seen in the 6th and 7th photos down in post number 4.

BJK

 

The C5s have a poor quality "gasket" between the case and the extension housing (the area in question). I did not realize this issue still existed with the C6s.

I just pulled the extension housing off the trans and cleaned, RTVd, and reinstalled. hasnt leaked in 20k miles since!

 

SlickShoes,

What is the difference between a base slave and a Z06? With all my engine work, I think my stock clutch won't last much longer so I have a Z06 clutch waiting to go in. I'm debating changing the slave while I'm in there even though the stock one hasn't given me any trouble.

Anybody know of differences b/w stock slave and a Z06 slave in terms on reliability and strength?

Sean

 

..... I was hoping this wasn't the case. Will get it on a lift and confirm soon.

 

Even with the guide pins it has a lil slop. Theres no need to scribe though. It really easy to see the shiny aluminum under the bolt to get her lined up. Again im really not sure how critical this really is.

BTW, I ordered a few things from Mike at ECP myself. He really knows his stuff and answered alot of my questions along the way.

 

Any close up shots of the tranny/diff from this point of view?




Also, can you confirm Slick that there is a gasket between the tranny and diff? Seems as though mine is leaking from the top somewhere.

 

There is an O-ring that goes in between. When I looked at the top of mine it was a lil "sweaty" but not leaky.

Attached is the only pic I have, hope it helps

 

Thanks! Is the o-ring where you have that green tape/cloth or the larger circle just outside of that?

 

No problem. Its the larger circle outside of that. I taped off the plugs and the bearings while I was cleaning it up.

 

OK, since I didn't want to start another thread about a common subject and because I gained so much info from this thread I thought this the place to post my saga...
First off; I ordered the GM Service Manuals. The damn things are Pink. Now I know why. Some Lawyer wrote 'em. Between the "see 7-154.06 subsection c paragraph w.631 (in one of the other 4 books) to unplug one wire and the disclaimers "refer to section 4.7333.b-rwe to unhook the battery cable to prevent personal harm"... I damn near went nuts. They do however provide a general guide on what you are looking for if you have fortitude...
As to the pics;

First pic is my Bud Zeus. Just as usless as Slickshoes Bulldog but when he snuggles up to me he doesn't drool (plus he purrs...purring is BIG in our house). This look tells me:"I'm an inside cat but I'll be pullin' for ya'".
Fourth picture is of the "stooge" I made due to the fact that all my friends are airplane guys who declined assistance on "car" work. An old creeper, a jackstand and some Redneck Rubberbands did the trick...
The tranny jack is a $160.00 score from Harbor Freight; an ATV jack that worked great for lifting and stabilizing the tranny/trans/propshaft.

Other observations:
The right rear brake line runs under the diff/tranny so you do need to open the brake system. Don't bother to take the caliper loose. Use of a good rubber plug will limit the flow and not require bleeding the brakes.

GM uses cheap crappy and useless fiberglass (ITCHY) insulation in the tunnel. Near the bellhousing when you go for the bolts attaching the bellhousing to the motor you would be advised to be aware of this crap. Most high end cars went to ceramic insuation years ago. Wear a long sleeved shirt, goggles and gloves and tear this crap out around the clutch bellhousing. When you have the bellhousing bolted back up attach some stick-on insulation from Lowe's, Home Depot, etc...

I dropped the motor (front bolts at the bottom and rear bolts off) an inch or so plus loosening of the motor mount bolts when doing this and had no problems with the intake touching the firewall and could get to the two top bolts of the bellhousing with a bit of persevernce.

For putting her back together I'm going to install the driveshaft/clutch/slave cylinder and then mate the tranny/rearend to that. This way I can test/bleed/work the entire front end (clutch) prior to mounting the tranny/diff.

I'm of the read but verify crowd...

Chris

 

Amazing information, thanks to slickshoes and the others who contribute.

Here's my question: I'm a capable wrencher, but new to the C6. Assuming the right tools and no major snags, about how long is this process from 1) start to cradle removed and 2) from cradle removed to fully disassembled (meaning trans, diff, and TT removed)? Not including putting the car up on stands

I know times vary based on many factors, but are we talking 2 hours, 8 hours, or 3 days?

Thanks again!

 

It depends on what you plan to do. For example...

First time I dropped my drivetrain it took about 6-7 hours but I was very slow and took more apart than I needed to (wheel assemblies, half shafts, etc) for a TT rebuild. Now I can drop everything behind the flywheel in about 3.5 hrs, including the headers. You can separate from the car at the upper control arms, upper shock mounts, 4 cradle bolts and front torque tube bolts to get everything down together. ont forget the clutch line and rear brake lines along with all the electrical connectors...

I would plan on an entire day to drop the drivetrain and then pull everything apart. Take pics along the way, it really helps you to remember how the wires and cables are routed through the cradle.

If you are doint a TT rebuild, it will take another hour or so to get it apart. The 5" snap ring is a real bear to get off.

I havent separated the tranny or diff from the cradle yet, but there isn't much holding it on. Maybe another 30-45 min?

Most importantly, run a search to find other DIY articles with pictures. It's very important to know what you're up against before you start wrenching away. that helped me a ton.

Hope this helps.

Sean

 

it gets easier every time! not too bad with a lift!

 

My best answer is it takes as long as it takes.(Fuzzy Carter's favorite saying). First time will take longer than the second time. Be thoughtful and get it right. In any given endeavor the first time has a bit of the "Holy-Crap-what-have-I-gotten-myself-into" feel that will be overcome.
***** happens...sockets hide, cuts must be mended, beer breaks must be observed...
The only time you're back to a wall is if you need the car for primary transportation or you're in a race setting, otherwise enjoy working on your car and forget about the shop that could do it in 9 hours. Have fun, learn stuff and by all means take pictures and post in the Forum(s).

PS:
It took me two days to remove my drivetrain. I wasn't in a hurry, I did a LOT of the Slick Shoes Siestas , looked at this wonderful forum for info and bought tools I thought I needed and enjoyed the process.


JMPO and YMMV

Chris


That's how long anything should take!

 

Glad to see other people tackling this! I keep going absent with this thread and getting sidetracked elsewhere, but to anyone who had unanswered questions, I apologize.

It looks like some of you guys are local to me (So Cal area). Any others who are on the fence and are within driving distance of me, I'd be happy to drop by and help with guidance.

 

What a great tech write up.

 

sticky this thread!

 

If you can buy or get access to one, a good transmission jack can save you a lot of time and effort, and make lining things up a whole lot easier. Not to mention its more safe. I have one I bought from Harbor Freight and it paid for itself the first time.