Dropping your C6's drivetrain, Version 4.0
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,782
Likes: 42
did you ever figure out how to fix this leak...im having the same issue on my '05 z51 manual
Thanks for the writeup. When I replaced my brake pads, I noticed my transmission was covered in oil.
So I took it in today and it appears to be leaking right at the big gasket towards the rear of the transmission. I stole one of slickshoes pics and circled where the leak is.
I took it to the dealer and they agreed with me on the leak, but wanted $1700 to fix it. So looks like I'll be learning to drop it on my own.
Now the questions are, how much do I need to take apart to fix it and what do I upgrade while I am at it? Since I am not going through this without getting something out of it.
So I took it in today and it appears to be leaking right at the big gasket towards the rear of the transmission. I stole one of slickshoes pics and circled where the leak is.
I took it to the dealer and they agreed with me on the leak, but wanted $1700 to fix it. So looks like I'll be learning to drop it on my own.
Now the questions are, how much do I need to take apart to fix it and what do I upgrade while I am at it? Since I am not going through this without getting something out of it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,472
Likes: 38
From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '11
Thats the case/tailhousing mating surface. Only way to fix would be to drop the cradle, remove diff, drain transmission, remove tailhousing (nothing will fall out of the tranny and give you an opportunity to inspect and clean the magnets in the case), clean the surfaces, apply RTV (Tremec doesn't make the gaskets anymore) and reassemble. As a stop gap solution you can try cleaning the outside and applying RTV (Ultra black) around the outside of the lower part of the trans across the seam.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,782
Likes: 42
Thats the case/tailhousing mating surface. Only way to fix would be to drop the cradle, remove diff, drain transmission, remove tailhousing (nothing will fall out of the tranny and give you an opportunity to inspect and clean the magnets in the case), clean the surfaces, apply RTV (Tremec doesn't make the gaskets anymore) and reassemble. As a stop gap solution you can try cleaning the outside and applying RTV (Ultra black) around the outside of the lower part of the trans across the seam.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,472
Likes: 38
From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '11
There's a vent, which I wouldn't expect to have fluid come out of it unless it was severely overfilled and the vent goes towards the front of the trans so maybe not that. There's also the cover that goes over the gear selection mechanism which also has the reverse lockout solenoid on it on the very top of the trans. Lastly there is the detent ball near the top of the passenger side of the case. If someone removed that to install the anti-venom mod (just a washer in-between the trans case and detent ball) that could be loose. I wouldn't expect anything on top to leak because not much fluid should be up in that area.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,782
Likes: 42
There's a vent, which I wouldn't expect to have fluid come out of it unless it was severely overfilled and the vent goes towards the front of the trans so maybe not that. There's also the cover that goes over the gear selection mechanism which also has the reverse lockout solenoid on it on the very top of the trans. Lastly there is the detent ball near the top of the passenger side of the case. If someone removed that to install the anti-venom mod (just a washer in-between the trans case and detent ball) that could be loose. I wouldn't expect anything on top to leak because not much fluid should be up in that area.
for them to check it tmorrow..i hope its something simple..
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,782
Likes: 42
I was able to get a few pics tnite and may have found the culprit...on the driver side above the fill hole of the tranny there is another sensor that had oil on its end on the wire,,,does anybody know what this is???
idk what is called but it was all wet and dripping,,its that bronze housing looking sensor
on the passenger side i didnt see much wet spots but alot of dirt on top..the cooler lines seemed ok
passenger side looking towards the front-another bronze housing shown
idk what is called but it was all wet and dripping,,its that bronze housing looking sensor
on the passenger side i didnt see much wet spots but alot of dirt on top..the cooler lines seemed ok
passenger side looking towards the front-another bronze housing shown
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,472
Likes: 38
From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '11
The drivers side bronze solenoid is the CAGS. The one on top on the passenger side is the reverse lockout. I've never taken the CAGS out before, you may be able to use a large crescent wrench. It should have an 0-ring on it.
The reverse lockout is attached to the shifting mechanism plate via one bolt and has an 0-ring on it. But it's hard to tell where its coming from. I'd take the whole plate off which has four bolts, and two of them may be torx. That'll be a pain to get to without at least lowering the drivetrain a bit. But I just looked at one of the T56's I have in the garage and there isn't a gasket or any RTV inbetween the plate and the case and thinking of it, none of the other one's I've taken apart have had any of that either. I'd start with the CAGS. Remove it, inspect the seal/o-ring and replace. Then clean the whole thing down so if it comes back it's easier to trace down.
The reverse lockout is attached to the shifting mechanism plate via one bolt and has an 0-ring on it. But it's hard to tell where its coming from. I'd take the whole plate off which has four bolts, and two of them may be torx. That'll be a pain to get to without at least lowering the drivetrain a bit. But I just looked at one of the T56's I have in the garage and there isn't a gasket or any RTV inbetween the plate and the case and thinking of it, none of the other one's I've taken apart have had any of that either. I'd start with the CAGS. Remove it, inspect the seal/o-ring and replace. Then clean the whole thing down so if it comes back it's easier to trace down.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,782
Likes: 42
hey thanx very much for your input...i think i can remove the cags sensor w/o lowering the drive train to inspect it.....my only obtrusion is the exhaust cutout i just recently installed... BTW , is that a common problem? leaking from the cags? never heard of it...
im starting to think too that my weekly trips to the drag-strip has contributed some to this leak...IDK , maybe
im taking it to the dealer today and plan on printing these pictures to perhaps help them some... i did clean the whole area with brake cleaner last nite...hopefully it will show better where the leak is coming from..
im starting to think too that my weekly trips to the drag-strip has contributed some to this leak...IDK , maybe
im taking it to the dealer today and plan on printing these pictures to perhaps help them some... i did clean the whole area with brake cleaner last nite...hopefully it will show better where the leak is coming from..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,472
Likes: 38
From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '11
I can't say I've ever heard of the CAGS leaking, no. It may be that or it may be a red herring. There was fluid all over that case from the wind moving through the tunnel so it could be somewhere else.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,782
Likes: 42
ok soo, after a short trip to the local dealer, their prognosis is that there is nothing to worry about. that the oil came from the vent tube on top of the tranny...i told them i go to the dragstrip once a week and they said that along with my new elec cutouts really close to the tranny maybe putting more heat in to the area...i maybe wrapping those in the near future bc i have noticed that my trunk area does get hotter when i have them open,,,they sound cool though,,,,,so knowing everything was ok,,,i headed to the track tnite and made a few passes...tomorrow il check it out and see if it has started to leak again...i guess a happy ending for me...thx 5litereater for your input
Thread Starter
_Sloth Whisperer_
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,369
Likes: 9
From: Malaysia Air Flight 370
@SlickShoes
Thanks for the write up , love all the effort you put in.
In hours, how would you estimate the average good mech with a lift could take to do the slave cylinder replacement like you did on your C6 ?
My slave cyl. is shot and i'm looking around for price quote, I know the dealer charges 1600-2600$, I am wondering for a normal mech, not the stealership.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the write up , love all the effort you put in.
In hours, how would you estimate the average good mech with a lift could take to do the slave cylinder replacement like you did on your C6 ?
My slave cyl. is shot and i'm looking around for price quote, I know the dealer charges 1600-2600$, I am wondering for a normal mech, not the stealership.
Thanks again.
Welcome, glad it helped you out. Been forever since this thread went up, it feels like. I intended to document quite a bit more, but a string of deployments have killed that momentum. Should be home in the spring next year and I have an RPS BC2 and new exhaust waiting to go in my C6Z. I'd like to redo this with a Version 5.0 including the clutch install, with higher quality pics. Gonna be awhile however.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Any chance someone has this thread (pictures specifically) screen-shotted or saved somehow? Getting ready to start a clutch install, and all of my searches send me here.
Thanks!
Trueblood22@gmail.com
Thanks!
Trueblood22@gmail.com
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Austin Texas
Tips for an A6
I have a 2006 non-z51 A6 that I'm removing the drive train to replace the driveshaft bearings and the couplers this weekend. The car has 160,000 fun filled miles on her. My question is do I have to remove the center console and disconnect the shifter in order to remove the transmission and torque tube? Also, any tips I need to know for removing the oil cooler lines that run underneath the torque tube to the transmission?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Thread Starter
_Sloth Whisperer_
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,369
Likes: 9
From: Malaysia Air Flight 370
Hey guys, just got the word these pics are down, yet again. Not sure why the links keep busting but I'll see if I can fix it.
Sharif, yes you'll have to remove the console in order to disconnect the shifter linkage. The shift rod that leads into the transmission can't be accessed and removed from the trans, and comes out with the trans when you drop it. That rod is attached just aft of the shifter box, requiring the interior to come out. It's easy.
Hopefully I can fix up the pics soon.
Sharif, yes you'll have to remove the console in order to disconnect the shifter linkage. The shift rod that leads into the transmission can't be accessed and removed from the trans, and comes out with the trans when you drop it. That rod is attached just aft of the shifter box, requiring the interior to come out. It's easy.
Hopefully I can fix up the pics soon.
Last edited by SlickShoes; Feb 11, 2015 at 11:43 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Austin Texas
Help!!!!! 2006 non Z51 A6. I was able to remove the cradle, differential, and transmission. I cannot get the torque tube of the engine. I have removed all of the bolts (I've checked and re-checked), but I can not get it to separate more than a half inch. What am I missing? Do I need to remove the torque converter from first? Any help would be great.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 757
Likes: 47
From: Tracy CA
If i remember correctly. Take the rubber cover off of the bell housing underneath the car. You will see the shaft and a bolt holding the clamp onto the splined shaft. That may need to be loosened to remove the torque tube on the autos. The torque converter should've been removed with the transmission.