--Important read-- Engine Oil Tech
Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,897
Likes: 412
From: Lewisville TX
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
--Important read-- Engine Oil Tech
This is something that everyone needs to read, if you are racing your car or just taking it to car shows your engine oil is the life blood that keeps your car running.
The more aggressive your setup, or the harder you drive your car, the oil you use becomes even more important.
Over the last 10 years, We have recorded approximately 10 failed lifters from customers in the US with our cam kits. We sell on average 150-200 cam kits per year, and more cams by themselves. 6 of these have been in the last 12 months.
Doing testing and research with oil companies, Comp Cams, and also with some of our partners in the turbo production the newer 'EPA approved' oils are reducing the anti wear additive packages more so every year and are increasing the amount of detergents in the oil. While this might sound good to keep the inside of your engine clean it is not helping on keeping the oil protecting like it should.
That is why it is more important now more so than ever for those of you tracking your car, installing bigger cams, turbo's and superchargers that you run an oil that will hold up and protect your investment.
With any of our cam kits we highly suggest the use of a quality oil with a high content of Zinc and Phosphorus. For those racing the car, a racing oil should be used. Do keep in mind most racing oils are 100% detergent free and will need to be changed frequently.
Some oils to use would be RedLine, Amsoil, Joe Gibb, Brad Penn, Valvoline VR1 series.
Further Reading...
http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/tech/streetoils.htm
http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
The more aggressive your setup, or the harder you drive your car, the oil you use becomes even more important.
Over the last 10 years, We have recorded approximately 10 failed lifters from customers in the US with our cam kits. We sell on average 150-200 cam kits per year, and more cams by themselves. 6 of these have been in the last 12 months.
Doing testing and research with oil companies, Comp Cams, and also with some of our partners in the turbo production the newer 'EPA approved' oils are reducing the anti wear additive packages more so every year and are increasing the amount of detergents in the oil. While this might sound good to keep the inside of your engine clean it is not helping on keeping the oil protecting like it should.
That is why it is more important now more so than ever for those of you tracking your car, installing bigger cams, turbo's and superchargers that you run an oil that will hold up and protect your investment.
With any of our cam kits we highly suggest the use of a quality oil with a high content of Zinc and Phosphorus. For those racing the car, a racing oil should be used. Do keep in mind most racing oils are 100% detergent free and will need to be changed frequently.
Some oils to use would be RedLine, Amsoil, Joe Gibb, Brad Penn, Valvoline VR1 series.
Further Reading...
http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/tech/streetoils.htm
http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
Last edited by Anthony @ LGMotorsports; Oct 23, 2012 at 01:20 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,347
Likes: 25
From: Apache Junction AZ
How do you define "frequent oil changes" regarding racing oil?
Also with some internet searches I came across I came across an old C3 forum thread that challenged the Valvoline VR1 series claim of high zinc and phosphorous content because of the API rating on the label.
BJK
Also with some internet searches I came across I came across an old C3 forum thread that challenged the Valvoline VR1 series claim of high zinc and phosphorous content because of the API rating on the label.
BJK
Last edited by 07MontRedcp; Oct 24, 2012 at 12:55 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: no. jersey Photo by Stro
St. Jude Donor '08
This is something that everyone needs to read, if you are racing your car or just taking it to car shows your engine oil is the life blood that keeps your car running.
The more aggressive your setup, or the harder you drive your car, the oil you use becomes even more important.
Over the last 10 years, We have recorded approximately 10 failed lifters from customers in the US with our cam kits. We sell on average 150-200 cam kits per year, and more cams by themselves. 6 of these have been in the last 12 months.
Doing testing and research with oil companies, Comp Cams, and also with some of our partners in the turbo production the newer 'EPA approved' oils are reducing the anti wear additive packages more so every year and are increasing the amount of detergents in the oil. While this might sound good to keep the inside of your engine clean it is not helping on keeping the oil protecting like it should.
That is why it is more important now more so than ever for those of you tracking your car, installing bigger cams, turbo's and superchargers that you run an oil that will hold up and protect your investment.
With any of our cam kits we highly suggest the use of a quality oil with a high content of Zinc and Phosphorus. For those racing the car, a racing oil should be used. Do keep in mind most racing oils are 100% detergent free and will need to be changed frequently.
Some oils to use would be RedLine, Amsoil, Joe Gibb, Brad Penn, Valvoline VR1 series.
Further Reading...
http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/tech/streetoils.htm
http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
The more aggressive your setup, or the harder you drive your car, the oil you use becomes even more important.
Over the last 10 years, We have recorded approximately 10 failed lifters from customers in the US with our cam kits. We sell on average 150-200 cam kits per year, and more cams by themselves. 6 of these have been in the last 12 months.
Doing testing and research with oil companies, Comp Cams, and also with some of our partners in the turbo production the newer 'EPA approved' oils are reducing the anti wear additive packages more so every year and are increasing the amount of detergents in the oil. While this might sound good to keep the inside of your engine clean it is not helping on keeping the oil protecting like it should.
That is why it is more important now more so than ever for those of you tracking your car, installing bigger cams, turbo's and superchargers that you run an oil that will hold up and protect your investment.
With any of our cam kits we highly suggest the use of a quality oil with a high content of Zinc and Phosphorus. For those racing the car, a racing oil should be used. Do keep in mind most racing oils are 100% detergent free and will need to be changed frequently.
Some oils to use would be RedLine, Amsoil, Joe Gibb, Brad Penn, Valvoline VR1 series.
Further Reading...
http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/tech/streetoils.htm
http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
Thanks
Last edited by theVcar; Oct 23, 2012 at 07:21 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 231
From: SoCal
This is something that everyone needs to read, if you are racing your car or just taking it to car shows your engine oil is the life blood that keeps your car running.
The more aggressive your setup, or the harder you drive your car, the oil you use becomes even more important.
Over the last 10 years, We have recorded approximately 10 failed lifters from customers in the US with our cam kits. We sell on average 150-200 cam kits per year, and more cams by themselves. 6 of these have been in the last 12 months.
Doing testing and research with oil companies, Comp Cams, and also with some of our partners in the turbo production the newer 'EPA approved' oils are reducing the anti wear additive packages more so every year and are increasing the amount of detergents in the oil. While this might sound good to keep the inside of your engine clean it is not helping on keeping the oil protecting like it should.
That is why it is more important now more so than ever for those of you tracking your car, installing bigger cams, turbo's and superchargers that you run an oil that will hold up and protect your investment.
With any of our cam kits we highly suggest the use of a quality oil with a high content of Zinc and Phosphorus. For those racing the car, a racing oil should be used. Do keep in mind most racing oils are 100% detergent free and will need to be changed frequently.
Some oils to use would be RedLine, Amsoil, Joe Gibb, Brad Penn, Valvoline VR1 series.
Further Reading...
http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/tech/streetoils.htm
http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
The more aggressive your setup, or the harder you drive your car, the oil you use becomes even more important.
Over the last 10 years, We have recorded approximately 10 failed lifters from customers in the US with our cam kits. We sell on average 150-200 cam kits per year, and more cams by themselves. 6 of these have been in the last 12 months.
Doing testing and research with oil companies, Comp Cams, and also with some of our partners in the turbo production the newer 'EPA approved' oils are reducing the anti wear additive packages more so every year and are increasing the amount of detergents in the oil. While this might sound good to keep the inside of your engine clean it is not helping on keeping the oil protecting like it should.
That is why it is more important now more so than ever for those of you tracking your car, installing bigger cams, turbo's and superchargers that you run an oil that will hold up and protect your investment.
With any of our cam kits we highly suggest the use of a quality oil with a high content of Zinc and Phosphorus. For those racing the car, a racing oil should be used. Do keep in mind most racing oils are 100% detergent free and will need to be changed frequently.
Some oils to use would be RedLine, Amsoil, Joe Gibb, Brad Penn, Valvoline VR1 series.
Further Reading...
http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/tech/streetoils.htm
http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
Thanks for posting.
Can you tell us what the minimum levels of ZDDP we should be running for a street/track car. I want to know if my Mobil1 0w40 has enough.
DH
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,596
Likes: 19
From: Portland Oregon
Just repaird a C6 today that a lifter failed in. The roller's needle bearings failed causing the roller to seize. It was caught early enough that there was no other damage to the engine. I replaced all the lifters, and the cam. This car saw a lot of track usage using M1 15-50 synthetic oil.
Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,897
Likes: 412
From: Lewisville TX
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
How do you define "frequent oil changes"regarding racing oil?
Also with some internet searches I came across I came across an old C3 forum thread that challenged the Valvoline VR1 series claim of high zinc and phosphorous content because of the API rating on the label.
BJK
Also with some internet searches I came across I came across an old C3 forum thread that challenged the Valvoline VR1 series claim of high zinc and phosphorous content because of the API rating on the label.
BJK
Now what you can do is run a race oil for a weekend and switch back to a street oil between events for those that do daily drive the cars.
Depending on what we would see for oil temps on the race cars we may change just a filter during a race weekend or do a full oil change at the end of the event. You also have to remember we are changing engines every 30-35 hrs of run time roughly as well in the race cars.
Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,897
Likes: 412
From: Lewisville TX
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
It would be nice to see them in the 1100-1500 range, 1600+ would be best.
Last edited by Anthony @ LGMotorsports; Oct 24, 2012 at 01:31 PM.
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Rick
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From: Apache Junction AZ
I'm sure you know Moly and Boron are antiwear additives to compensate for the lower Zinc. A redline report would blow this one away...they usually runn about 600 parts per million of Moly and close to 2000 PPM of Zinc. Redline would be my choice because of the additives and the base stock (Ester oil.)
Rick
Rick
BJK
Last edited by 07MontRedcp; Oct 24, 2012 at 06:51 PM. Reason: Clarification
Safety Car
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,582
Likes: 46
From: va
This is something that everyone needs to read, if you are racing your car or just taking it to car shows your engine oil is the life blood that keeps your car running.
The more aggressive your setup, or the harder you drive your car, the oil you use becomes even more important.
Over the last 10 years, We have recorded approximately 10 failed lifters from customers in the US with our cam kits. We sell on average 150-200 cam kits per year, and more cams by themselves. 6 of these have been in the last 12 months.
Doing testing and research with oil companies, Comp Cams, and also with some of our partners in the turbo production the newer 'EPA approved' oils are reducing the anti wear additive packages more so every year and are increasing the amount of detergents in the oil. While this might sound good to keep the inside of your engine clean it is not helping on keeping the oil protecting like it should.
That is why it is more important now more so than ever for those of you tracking your car, installing bigger cams, turbo's and superchargers that you run an oil that will hold up and protect your investment.
With any of our cam kits we highly suggest the use of a quality oil with a high content of Zinc and Phosphorus. For those racing the car, a racing oil should be used. Do keep in mind most racing oils are 100% detergent free and will need to be changed frequently.
Some oils to use would be RedLine, Amsoil, Joe Gibb, Brad Penn, Valvoline VR1 series.
Further Reading...
http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/tech/streetoils.htm
http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
The more aggressive your setup, or the harder you drive your car, the oil you use becomes even more important.
Over the last 10 years, We have recorded approximately 10 failed lifters from customers in the US with our cam kits. We sell on average 150-200 cam kits per year, and more cams by themselves. 6 of these have been in the last 12 months.
Doing testing and research with oil companies, Comp Cams, and also with some of our partners in the turbo production the newer 'EPA approved' oils are reducing the anti wear additive packages more so every year and are increasing the amount of detergents in the oil. While this might sound good to keep the inside of your engine clean it is not helping on keeping the oil protecting like it should.
That is why it is more important now more so than ever for those of you tracking your car, installing bigger cams, turbo's and superchargers that you run an oil that will hold up and protect your investment.
With any of our cam kits we highly suggest the use of a quality oil with a high content of Zinc and Phosphorus. For those racing the car, a racing oil should be used. Do keep in mind most racing oils are 100% detergent free and will need to be changed frequently.
Some oils to use would be RedLine, Amsoil, Joe Gibb, Brad Penn, Valvoline VR1 series.
Further Reading...
http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/tech/streetoils.htm
http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
From what Ive seen the Mobil 1 racing oils do have the extra additives to prevent buildups (unlike the other racing oils).
I like to check the mobil 1 product guide sheet before I do my oil purchases (it changes a few times a year).
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
one example - their 0w20 and 0w30 used to be 800 / 900 for the zinc and phos, then they reduced it a year later...
At this point Im mixing 0w40 and 0w20 to get a 0w30 oil with a bit more than the the 800/900 that gm requires on an oil.
EDIT: for those that dont know - if you run high zinc/phos content oils - you need to run the car without cats.
info on m1 racing having detergents: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...rgent_Oil.aspx
mobil 1 racing 0w30 link: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ing_0W-30.aspx
hope this helps some folks out!
Last edited by el es tu; Oct 24, 2012 at 06:20 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,173
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From: Dallas Texas
You might want to consult with a chemist, tribologist, or oil engineer before you make that recommendation. Playing with ZDDP levels without knowing what you're doing is like giving yourself chemo treatments for cancer...just because some is good does not mean a lot is better.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,582
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From: va
yep
just any starts in general.
Also supposedly gets you a small increase in efficiency (whopping 2 or 3 hp
)
I change my oil much more often than most people (after a day of running the car hard or every 1 to 2 months - roughly a few hundred miles) so oil life isnt an issue. I think its dumb to let the carbon sit in the engine to develop deposits - changing the oil out often is like doing a dialysis on youre engine.
-
BTW Mobil is running 0 weight for their real racing oils (0w30 and 0w50); they have a Q/A section of their website where you can ask them why directly.
EDIT: Here's a FAQ from them: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...AQs.aspx#FAQs1
Note: The stuff is roughly 90 to 100 bucks a case and has 2 to 3 times the additives so you cannot run it with cats
just any starts in general.
Also supposedly gets you a small increase in efficiency (whopping 2 or 3 hp
)I change my oil much more often than most people (after a day of running the car hard or every 1 to 2 months - roughly a few hundred miles) so oil life isnt an issue. I think its dumb to let the carbon sit in the engine to develop deposits - changing the oil out often is like doing a dialysis on youre engine.
-
BTW Mobil is running 0 weight for their real racing oils (0w30 and 0w50); they have a Q/A section of their website where you can ask them why directly.
EDIT: Here's a FAQ from them: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...AQs.aspx#FAQs1
Note: The stuff is roughly 90 to 100 bucks a case and has 2 to 3 times the additives so you cannot run it with cats
Last edited by el es tu; Oct 25, 2012 at 02:38 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,912
Likes: 2,059
From: Cypress TX
Speaking of Redline, Lou, I tried to order it from you recently (5W-30), but you were out of stock. Please put those stickers back on your car so you can pass the savings along to us. The place I ended up getting it from was $10.99/qt. I'd much rather buy it from you. 
Thanks for the info and keep up the good work.
Thanks for the info and keep up the good work.