Disabled my shift lock...finally.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 30
Likes: 1
From: shawnee kansas
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 11,349
Likes: 2,444
From: Eastern
The **** does not have to be removed to get to the shifter lock out pawl, but if you need to remove it for another reason, etc., then forum member WHT did this tutorial years ago.
It's a PIA to remove, and that plastic piece can break, so patience is key.
I have used the tutorial to remove mine to wrap the shifter **** in stitched leather and it worked without me breaking anything.
Hope it helps.
It's a PIA to remove, and that plastic piece can break, so patience is key.
I have used the tutorial to remove mine to wrap the shifter **** in stitched leather and it worked without me breaking anything.
Hope it helps.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,187
Likes: 1,216
From: Las Vegas Nevada
That's the problem with stating speeds/times...there is always someone who is going to jump in and say, "Oh, yeah...well mine's bigger than yours!"
You guys have to deal with more frequent fluid changes, some have to park in "R", and then the battery dies. We have to fix the parking pawl", and put up with some other issues. To each his/her own.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 11,349
Likes: 2,444
From: Eastern
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,187
Likes: 1,216
From: Las Vegas Nevada
Cruising
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,187
Likes: 1,216
From: Las Vegas Nevada
Thank you for your service.
Jim
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Cruising
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 14
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Paul
Cruising
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
It's been getting worse and worse and after being stuck for half an hour on Saturday I decided enough is enough and disabled the shift lock on Sunday. Took about an hour. Did not have to take the console all the way off. Only disconnected the active handling switch harness and the passenger seat belt light then propped the console up on the e-brake handle. The red thing is propping the shifter cover up.
Here's an updated picture.
Here's an updated picture.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,187
Likes: 1,216
From: Las Vegas Nevada
Oops, I obviously got my chopper designations confused...that will happen with older age. I did mean the UH1 was the transport/medevac/gunship we all loved. As I understand, the Blackhawk was a huge improvement. Glad you retired well.
Cruising
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Jim, Thanks! I did fly 3500 hours of Instructor Pilot Time in the UH-1 H and V models before I ever Flew a UH60 Blackhawk!!!
Cruising
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Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 23
Likes: 3
A Big Thanks
Thanks to who ever started this post. I fixed my 2005 late in 2016. I tied it back in case I wanted to undo. A special thanks to post 18. I would not have been able to remove the boot, and I definitely would have messed up the red shift ****.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: Temecula California
Finally going to try this.
Was a little apprehensive on doing this but I don't want to pay for a new shifter. Going to do this, this weekend
I think I have every thing I need. From what I can tell go by the center console removal PDF, (don't drop the two bolts near the ebrake) Put the car in neutral and Ebrake it.
Then take the boot / ring off, by pushing in on the two clips that hold the shifter ring/boot on. (one front one back near center console)
Drill / Tie back pawl
Put back together but remember to place the orange shift tab back in to the plastic ****.
Wish me luck.
to all that posted pictures, replies, and figured this out
I think I have every thing I need. From what I can tell go by the center console removal PDF, (don't drop the two bolts near the ebrake) Put the car in neutral and Ebrake it.
Then take the boot / ring off, by pushing in on the two clips that hold the shifter ring/boot on. (one front one back near center console)
Drill / Tie back pawl
Put back together but remember to place the orange shift tab back in to the plastic ****.
Wish me luck.
to all that posted pictures, replies, and figured this out
Last edited by anthony2823; Apr 27, 2017 at 06:00 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 30
Likes: 1
From: shawnee kansas
One hint is to be careful when you pull the control lever boot up... Remember that the little orange pointer has to come out of its guide and move to the left. I forgot about that and pulled the assembly up and was fortunate not to break the pointer. The pointer does remain captive to the boot assembly.
I did something different than everybody else here. I used a switch to control power to the pawl solenoid. I mounted a pushbutton on the rear of the cupholder, such that you don't see it from the seats. So on those rare occasions when the pawl does not release, I can push the button to activate the solenoid to pull the pawl back. By doing this, no safety interlocks are compromised.
Good luck Anthony. You'll do fine.
Frank
I did something different than everybody else here. I used a switch to control power to the pawl solenoid. I mounted a pushbutton on the rear of the cupholder, such that you don't see it from the seats. So on those rare occasions when the pawl does not release, I can push the button to activate the solenoid to pull the pawl back. By doing this, no safety interlocks are compromised.
Good luck Anthony. You'll do fine.
Frank
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 48
Likes: 3
From: Athens Ga
Tube Key Method
I had this problem on my 05 A4. I could not get at the locking tab to drill a hole in it for a tie back. I placed the round section of a tube key over the solenoid shaft to keep the shaft in the extended position, thus keeping the lock tab out of the way. I cut the tube key down to length and crimped it around the shaft. This is a permanent solution. Just remember to always keep your foot on the brake when starting the car. Total cost for the tube key was $3.00.
TIA
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 30
Likes: 1
From: shawnee kansas
Perhaps something to consider...
I never believed the problem had something to do with switches, solenoid, or the computer boards. Rather the problem seemed to be related to oxidation on a connector somewhere.
As I was troubleshooting the problem over about a one month period, I unplugged the connector that connects the solenoid to the wiring harness. the connector is a couple of inches from the solenoid. I had planned to measure voltage at that connector the 'next' time the lock up occurred. However, the problem did not reoccur.
I waited about a month then I went ahead and wired in a switch to control the solenoid when the problem reoccurred. However, the problem has not reoccurred. I have never had to use the switch.
I think there is a strong possibility, the two metal tabs and receptacles on that solenoid connector became oxidized and intermittently failed to make an adequate connection. Perhaps a shot of contact cleaner on that connector could fix the problem.
It is a solution that results in no safety features being compromised. i have had no lockups since taking the connector apart the first time.
I never believed the problem had something to do with switches, solenoid, or the computer boards. Rather the problem seemed to be related to oxidation on a connector somewhere.
As I was troubleshooting the problem over about a one month period, I unplugged the connector that connects the solenoid to the wiring harness. the connector is a couple of inches from the solenoid. I had planned to measure voltage at that connector the 'next' time the lock up occurred. However, the problem did not reoccur.
I waited about a month then I went ahead and wired in a switch to control the solenoid when the problem reoccurred. However, the problem has not reoccurred. I have never had to use the switch.
I think there is a strong possibility, the two metal tabs and receptacles on that solenoid connector became oxidized and intermittently failed to make an adequate connection. Perhaps a shot of contact cleaner on that connector could fix the problem.
It is a solution that results in no safety features being compromised. i have had no lockups since taking the connector apart the first time.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 392
From: Atlanta - - - - - Save the manuals
Perhaps something to consider...
I never believed the problem had something to do with switches, solenoid, or the computer boards. Rather the problem seemed to be related to oxidation on a connector somewhere.
........
It is a solution that results in no safety features being compromised. i have had no lockups since taking the connector apart the first time.
I never believed the problem had something to do with switches, solenoid, or the computer boards. Rather the problem seemed to be related to oxidation on a connector somewhere.
........
It is a solution that results in no safety features being compromised. i have had no lockups since taking the connector apart the first time.
While the pawl tie back or removal is 100% guaranteed effective, it does compromise a safety feature. I wasn't sure so I simply cleaned my shifter and lubed it with dry teflon spray (sprays wet). I'm going on two years now without a problem.
I don't know the answer, your YMMV as they say. I'm just trying to add to the information that is out there.