I put the pictures back into my post. tomorrow I'll be replacing the battery.

 

Now I can see your photos, I now see your problem. There is still a plastic oval ring to remove. The oval ring is what the leather boot was attached. There is a front clip and a rear clip that allows removal. Once removed, you will have easy access to the lockout pawl.

 

[QUOTE=Badda Bing;1593070981]
^^ the locking pawl is found under the shifter indicator (P-R-N-D-S) assembly. This must be lifted off to access underneath it. The red shifter indicator pointer will come away from the shifter lever, and it must be re-inserted on re-installation of the shifter indicator.
Hope this helps.

 

Should not have pulled the boot off that plastic ring.

 

Is this the cable?

 

Are these the bushings?

 

Don't get it there. Total ripoff for 2 pieces of plastic. See this thread.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rt-update.html

 

thanks, I could not figure out how to remove the oval ring. I tried everything even removing the 4 bolts and lifting the shifter module up. I could not get the clips to release. I guess I need step by step instructions with pictures how to get to the shift lock.

 

How bout the very first post in this thread?

 

way too much $$$$. Dorman bushing kits available at your local autozone and other retail outlets for <$10.

 

Yes. Sent you a long PM reply a couple of hours ago.

 

Read the entire thread and particularly note my Post #13.

 

Go to post #18 of this thread. Someone drew a diagram of what the front and rear clips for the oval ring look like. removing the 4 10mm nuts will not help.

 

Is this the clip that I have pointed out in white, that needs to be squeezed?




the bottom clip?

 

Yes. The second one is on the opposite side.

 

Well I removed the console (a little PIA) and took a peek at the shifter / cable connection. I know I can get it off, BUT I'm really concerned about getting it reconnected? After talking with a few of you kind people for directions, I had the shifter in Sport mode so the cable was all the way toward the engine. I carefully lifted the shifter and tried to test my 10" needle nose to see if it was tight. I think it may be a hassle snapping the cable back on the shifter ball? Is there another tool that can be used? I'm half tempted to tie the lockout back, but I do plan to sell the car soon and don't feel right leaving it in that condition. Anyway, I think I'll get a glass of wine and ponder this another day. Any feedback/encouragement would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

If you don't feel comfortable making that connection from the top, you can get to it from under the car. Put the car on a lift or jack stands and remove the mid pipe section of the exhaust. Next, remove the 36 screws that hold the tunnel plate. Now it will be much easier to connect the shifter ball to the shifter cable.

 

Frankly, if you are going to disconnect the shift cable for any reason and remove the shifter, I wouldn't even consider trying to reassemble the shifter to the cable with the old brittle grommet. One member did just that and had the grommet split on him a short time later. Disassembly and reassembly with the old brittle grommet will put stress cracks in the plastic that will hasten its demise. Its an interference fit and old plastic does not want to deflect and rebound back to its original shape after its lost its elasticity. My front grommet split with half on the shifter pin and half left in the cable end eyelet. Admittedly it's a PITA to dig the half grommet out with a sharp lock-back pocket knife and small blade screwdriver but I did get it done. Later someone suggested that an icepick with its tip end bent 90 degs would have been a good tool to hook underneath the grommet to pull it out. The shop manual suggests using the console tunnel side for leverage in popping the cable eyelet with grommet back onto the bottom of the shifter pin. Just need to maximize the length of cable you have to work with inside the tunnel as the cable is not very flexible and prone to breaking if lifted too far. It all went back together for me just fine. When I was looking down into the tunnel, there were tubing lines running below that space and made me wonder if my big hands would have been even able to reach up into that space to reconnect the cable to the shifter from below the car.

 

Thanks for the reply. I do plan to replace the grommet, it's reattaching the cable to the shifter ball that looks like has very little room to happen? I'm also looking at buying 10" needle nose with a 90 degree bend on the tip?

 

Not much room but let the left hand tunnel wall serve as your second hand. The shifter lever bottom is reasonably close to the left side wall so push the lever bottom to the left wall and use your right hand or perhaps a large screwdriver in your right hand to push the cable eyelet onto the shifter pin. At least that is what I seem to remember from last year when I did this. (or I may have used the torque tube on the right side for the assist.) I don't know about the 10" needle nose pliers with a bent tip. Might be too big for working inside the grommet ID. My biggest worry in replacing the grommet was dropping tools into the tunnel. Once the grommet was snapped into place with silicon spray and several gentle attempts with a pair of standard adjustable pliers searching for just the right alignment of the grommet to eyelet, reconnecting the cable to the shifter pin was relatively uneventful and straight forward in all reality.