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Not sure How I missed this thread. I ordered parts in October, received them end of March. Here's where I sit (kinda bursted my bubble seeing those red 4Link bars in that other pic).
How did the Rhodes cage fit after all? Minimal or no modifications?
Do you have pics of how you mounted everything in the rear?
The main hoop, rear down bars, door bars, etc fit well as most of them are left long and you trim to fit. The pre bent roof halo is a bit lower than I would like, if I were to do it again I would probably make that part myself to tuck it up better.
I just helped with another car get 4 linked and it came out even better than mine since mine was an experiment per say to see if it would even work. I have half an itch to redo it all this winter.
The main hoop, rear down bars, door bars, etc fit well as most of them are left long and you trim to fit. The pre bent roof halo is a bit lower than I would like, if I were to do it again I would probably make that part myself to tuck it up better.
I just helped with another car get 4 linked and it came out even better than mine since mine was an experiment per say to see if it would even work. I have half an itch to redo it all this winter.
dang, do you have pics of how low it is? I wanted to use the same one but def need it to go up as close to the roof line as i can get it.
dang, do you have pics of how low it is? I wanted to use the same one but def need it to go up as close to the roof line as i can get it.
The main hoop is up against the body and the halo is touching the A pillar and roof, just some custom made bars bend the bar up to follow the contour of the head liner for more head space which is nicer. But for $350 or whatever it is I aint mad at it, its solid AF.
Figured I would update, coming up on a year of beating on this project with no breakage, which is amazing because when it was IRS it broke constantly.
Great job on the rear stance. All the other solid axle C6's I've seen just look a bit off in the rear for whatever reason but yours still looks like a real car.
Great job on the rear stance. All the other solid axle C6's I've seen just look a bit off in the rear for whatever reason but yours still looks like a real car.
Thanks, yes still a real car just a lot more reliable. I swapped to lighter springs all around and actually had it lower but between the entry to my garage and some of our roads it rubbed a good bit and broke my CF front splitter cruising so I raised it up to what you see here and so far seems to be fine.
Can you post a link to the mounts and all you purchased for the 4 link setup. I'm wanting to do this to mine but I am having trouble sourcing the fab parts
I havent seen many threads on solid axle swaps on this forum. Anyone else gone crazy and converted to solid axle? I've seen lots of older vettes, a handful of C5's and one or two C6's converted as shown below. Does anyone know if those cars have run yet? I know one guy was chatting up taking the manual record after his swap, next shift or something like that and his car is in the pics below.
Pics for inspiration:
After breaking multiple drivetrain pieces I fully committed to the swap! Turns out it dropped a good bit of weight as my car is now 2400lbs with twin turbos, but still need to add a cage. After some measuring I went with a 58" fab 9 inch with a spool, custom driveshaft with Sonnax yoke and 1350 joints, Jegs's 15x10's with 4.5" backspacing, Wilwood drag brakes, double adjustable shocks and a universal triangulated four link kit. Have a big anti roll bar to install as well.
I could probably go with another inch of backspace with custom beadlock wheels but these fit the bill for mockup with 28x10.50W's
What I trimmed out up front to clear trans:
More fun to come!
that is my car in the first pic. Top end Fab in Chattanooga Tenn did all the work, great group of guys out they. The car is a stock block ls7 with aluminum rods and a pte 102mm. Has a 2speed 400 with a custom 9inch and a 25.3 cage. If anyone has any questions I’d be glad to answer but my one take away from this build is IT AINT CHEAP DO A FOXBODY OR 4th gen. Lol
Not sure How I missed this thread. I ordered parts in October, received them end of March. Here's where I sit (kinda bursted my bubble seeing those red 4Link bars in that other pic).
you are going to want to move that wishbone to the top.
sick build, my biggest issue is i have a Z06 the frame is aluminum. I was thinking about doing subframe supports with a cage. I think if I box the rear aluminum frame with 10g aluminum plate then make a steel box to bolt into the aluminum frame to tie the 4 link into it should be strong enough.
that is my car in the first pic. Top end Fab in Chattanooga Tenn did all the work, great group of guys out they. The car is a stock block ls7 with aluminum rods and a pte 102mm. Has a 2speed 400 with a custom 9inch and a 25.3 cage. If anyone has any questions I’d be glad to answer but my one take away from this build is IT AINT CHEAP DO A FOXBODY OR 4th gen. Lol
Nice! I couldn't imagine paying someone to do this, I just did it in my garage which was part of the fun for me. C6 with a 4 link ended up WAY lighter than my friends fox's or 4th gens so there is a perk.
Originally Posted by brandon1566
Can you post a link to the mounts and all you purchased for the 4 link setup. I'm wanting to do this to mine but I am having trouble sourcing the fab parts
I used a universal 4 link kit and a bare 58" housing and welded up the brackets where needed. I tied the front bracket into the cage and the OEM frame. I used the OEM rear shock location with a clevis adapter to 14" double adjustable coilovers, currently running 150lb rear and 200lb front spring but that can vary by car.
Originally Posted by JMURDOCK20
Some pictures for y’all.
Sweet, dig the carbon finish work!! I'm glad I stumbled on some pics of guys like you who had done it before jumping in. The C6 drivetrain just sucks when you try to put power down so it was either time for a project like this or time to sell it.
@JMURDOCK20 what spring rate are you using on your rear coil overs?
it has 90lb springs in the rear. I see about 6inches of separation down track. As far as weight goes my car has factory front and rear glass. Factory front brakes and cradle and it weights 2700 with me in it ready to make a pass. I think 2600 race ready is doable but then percentages are going to be off from front to rear. It’s a radial car so I like to see 57-58% on the nose
Thanks for the quick reply. I think I have too heavy springs, but I haven’t even run the car yet, so I likely shouldn’t throw more money at it. lol
That pretty light. I’m curious what my weight will be.
25.5 CM cage. CM 4-link and 9” housing. 40 spline gun drilled lightened axles strange brakes. TRZ Outlaw front with spindle mount wheels. Optic armor windshield. Iron block with a turbo and all the **** that goes along with it.
don’t know, but I’ll find out in a couple months once it’s all together.
Thanks for the quick reply. I think I have too heavy springs, but I haven’t even run the car yet, so I likely shouldn’t throw more money at it. lol
That pretty light. I’m curious what my weight will be.
25.5 CM cage. CM 4-link and 9” housing. 40 spline gun drilled lightened axles strange brakes. TRZ Outlaw front with spindle mount wheels. Optic armor windshield. Iron block with a turbo and all the **** that goes along with it.
don’t know, but I’ll find out in a couple months once it’s all together.
Best of success with your ride.
i would assume the iron block would pretty much even out the 100lbs the subframe gets. I know Sean’s car (nxt shift) he just had his floors taken out which is good middle weight but was still heavier than my car. Think his rear end housing was the difference.
Thanks for the quick reply. I think I have too heavy springs, but I haven’t even run the car yet, so I likely shouldn’t throw more money at it. lol
That pretty light. I’m curious what my weight will be.
25.5 CM cage. CM 4-link and 9” housing. 40 spline gun drilled lightened axles strange brakes. TRZ Outlaw front with spindle mount wheels. Optic armor windshield. Iron block with a turbo and all the **** that goes along with it.
don’t know, but I’ll find out in a couple months once it’s all together.
Best of success with your ride.
I'd be tempted to scale it immediately, but I weigh everything. I went with the 5 star windshield to drop some weight, once I made that decision I went ham and ripped a lot of other weight out. I got mine down in the 2,200lb range while NA and I still had factory hatch and rear glass. Turbo always ends up adding more weight than I expect but it's still fairly easy to end up in the 2400lb range both with twins and a large single.
I keep debating the TRZ setup but the brakes don't look up to the task for a street car. I don't mind drag brakes in the rear, but up front I'm not so sure especially with repeated stops from high speed.
Originally Posted by JMURDOCK20
it has 90lb springs in the rear. I see about 6inches of separation down track. As far as weight goes my car has factory front and rear glass. Factory front brakes and cradle and it weights 2700 with me in it ready to make a pass. I think 2600 race ready is doable but then percentages are going to be off from front to rear. It’s a radial car so I like to see 57-58% on the nose
You got me thinking about trying 100, I went from 200 to 150lb in the rear and noticed a difference. Just noticed you are non intercooled and have a similar steering wheel as well!
