does any one love there c7 as i do

 

the FASCIA is the rear of the car ,in the back,the part that fits to the side q. p. it has the tail lights in it . this car is 3mo's. old and 325 miles . and those sure are not smiley's. the fit and finish was perfect when i bought it. now it's falling apart . i was waitting on the z then trade .........nope , no way now i've seen litte kids cars that are buit better than this pile of of plastic. between the car having a small motor boat in the dash, never knowing if it will start,
and it comming apart one peace a day ....of allthe corvettes i've owned i don't know what this is . well i do cXXX !

 

Rear Fascia (rear bumper cover)

 

I own 2014 c7 2LT base automatic. One day at about 3900 mi. pulling up to a light a noise I never had before suddenly sounded. It is as if a plastic pen was being pressed against a rotating plastic fan, coming from the area of the dash in front of the steering wheel. It is the loudest at between 1200 & 2000 RPMs.

I bring it to the dealer & at idle I rev the engine & the Tech says, “never heard that one before” But when he put pressure with a rag on the fuel line going into the engine it stopped. So they remove undercarriage covers & exhaust etc. to try & isolate the problem. They had the car for a day. Chevy engineering says they never had a car with this condition so the tech was on his own in finding a fix. Couldn’t find the problem so their solution was to “insulate” the fuel line in a few key places. The noise no longer sounds like it is coming out of the dash yet it is still there by the bottom fire wall & or further below.

My biggest complaint is how can a noise suddenly appear after driving the car for 4 months and they don’t know the cause of the noise! Something changed but they don’t know what. They came up with a secondary solution to an unknown primary problem!
Has anyone had this and was there a fix.
Thanks!

 

It seems like pressure pulses from the cam driven Direct injection fuel pump. I would think the engineers would have included an accumulator of some sort to absorb these pulses. I would have the service manager contact engineering to determine if such a device is in the fuel system, and could it fail without a direct fuel leak.

Just my best guess.

Ed

 

Thanks Ed,
Yes, I believe the pulses are still there, causing the noise. The rag trick worked only for the portion of the fuel line that was hitting the area behind the dash, the last contact point before entering the engine.

 

Strange; I also had a flat after picking up from the dealer. I did not have the tire insurance, but do now. Same thing happened to my 2012 GS; flat tire (unrepairable) after 12 miles.

 

Not even close.

 

C7 Yellow purchased 8/8/14. Poor quality paint on car, and yellow calipers exhibit primer read through. Penske ordered new set but no better than originals. Zone mgr. says that's the way they are, nothing can be done. Brembo should be ashamed for supplying parts such as this. I'm open to suggestions.

 

in the south we have "big yellow" bug's, one hit my lower right quarter panel chip guard .it stained it I,tried 10differnt things .has any one else had this? I have an lt3 chrome rims,1 of my rims has developed blemishes under the chrome .my dealer maxie price is taking care of it.

 

i keep a wet rag in a ziplock bag in the back of my corvette to wipe off bugs from the 3M chip guard as bugs will stain it because of the acid in their bodies. the exhaust heat keeps the water warm so it works good to clean off the bugs

 

Did you try Turtle Wax Bug and tar remover ???? Now safe for clear coats and wax !!! Wayne

 

99 miles on 3LT and car went into limp home mode. Auto trans locked into 3rd gear. Dealer determined bad plastic casting in engine bay fuse box caused lose of engine speed info. Transmission and engine speed could not be matched so car went to safe mode. Fuse box replaced next day. Car performing fine.

Rear hatch difficult to close. Was auto latch from C-6 version dropped in C-7? Hatch latch appears to have no power assist.

 

The power latch was NOT carried over from the C6. GM claims for the weight savings. Instead they installed some new fangled thermal vent system that is supposed to release the pressure from inside the trunk and allow you to close the lid. This approach does not work and there are hundreds of complaints on this forum about the difficulty in closing the lid, as well as the offering of several "approaches" or "techniques" for closing the trunk.

Now, I have owned scores of cars in my life and have never needed a "technique" to close the trunk lid; intensely stupid if you ask me...

My advice to GM would be to bring back the power latch. I for one would be happy to live with the 3-4 pounds of extra weight..

And that's all I have to say 'bout that...

 

Been at this since October 2013. Many posts on the subject! Bottom line, they used a Memory Wire to open a vent at the rear of the car. For a percentage of the cars it appears to work. For a number of us it does not, it’s apparently not large enoigh!
The easy way to have it close is to keep a door open, that is what I do. Not great but I can actually stand behind the driver’s door with it open and with a light push down with my right hand on the left edge the hatch, it closes and latches easily. Then I close the driver’s door. With the door shut no matter how had I push it will not latch. Have tried various heights and efforts, it won’t latch. Even realigned it to a point of the having the hatch misaligned, it still won’t latch. Have checked the Memory Wire vent (you can see it work through a hole behind the license plate, if you remove it. Mine works fine!
One word of caution. Do not press in the center of the hatch to close it. A forum poster, during museum delivery, was told not to push there since there have been reports of paint cracking! A large dealer said he has about 20% of the folks who bought cars from them having cracked paint! First time I tried, I saw my hatch frame bend so the door open approach is all I use. You apparently can push down with two hands at the edge of the window where the hatch frame is peaked!

 

[QUOTE=MAXFWD;1587822826]99 miles on 3LT and car went into limp home mode. Auto trans locked into 3rd gear. Dealer determined bad plastic casting in engine bay fuse box caused lose of engine speed info. Transmission and engine speed could not be matched so car went to safe mode. Fuse box replaced next day. Car performing fine.

i had the same issue with same resolution but after 2700 miles.

 

That is what I have usd on my C6 and now my C7. But I use it everything I drive in the garage. There re always some bugs here as well. Works great.

 

Having a/c grrr sound. It matches engine speed and stops when a/c turned off. Local dealership said it's normal??? I call BS on that!!
Anybody have similar experience and fix?? I'd like to write the dealership owner a letter and point out the service tech is a moron...

 

If he hires morons for his shop he too is undoubtedly a moron as well.

I'd try another dealer.

Ed

 

My top seems to be squeaking a lot. Transparent top. I will tell dealer when I get my 1st oil change. Goes on and off easy squeaks with every little bump in road.