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Did you buy the plugs yet? I bought 3 sets off eBay if you need a set let me know
Yes I have a whole new set here. At the time we only swapped out the known bad plug. When I replace the plug wires I'm also going to replace the rest of the plugs just to make sure they are all new and good to go.
Yes I have a whole new set here. At the time we only swapped out the known bad plug. When I replace the plug wires I'm also going to replace the rest of the blogs just to make sure they are all new and good to go. Yes I have a whole new set. At the time we only swapped out the known bad plug. When I replace the plug wires I'm also going to replace the rest of the blogs just to make sure they are all new and good to go
I've heard people say something twice but never seen it written twice.
Pulled the valve covers tonight to check the valve springs to make sure none are visually broken or cracked. All of them look ok. I tried wiggling them all too and none of them move at all. I may try to do a compression test in all the cylinders tomorrow for peace of mind since I will be replacing all the plugs anyway. I am still waiting for the plug wires to arrive. They should be going out Monday I believe. I should have them mid week or so..
Pulled the valve covers tonight to check the valve springs to make sure none are visually broken or cracked. All of them look ok. I tried wiggling them all too and none of them move at all. I may try to do a compression test in all the cylinders tomorrow for peace of mind since I will be replacing all the plugs anyway. I am still waiting for the plug wires to arrive. They should be going out Monday I believe. I should have them mid week or so..
After an exhausting sear, I learned it's best to gap the plugs at .037.
I used thin tipped needle nose pliers. Use good light and extra care - open a slight bit over and for fine tuning, tap closed with the butt of a screw driver. That's how I did it and my car seems to like .037
After an exhausting sear, I learned it's best to gap the plugs at .037.
I used thin tipped needle nose pliers. Use good light and extra care - open a slight bit over and for fine tuning, tap closed with the butt of a screw driver. That's how I did it and my car seems to like .037
I was thinking about gapping a little tighter when I did the plugs. For the wires I went with just a new set of OEM wires. Have heard several people that tried the aftermarket ones and had problems.
I had a similar problem a while back and it was water in the gas , Just a thought .What made me think about it was ,you said it comes and goes. I drought you have a cracked valve spring , if i cracks it brakes. Have you noticed any valve train noise ? Usually if you brake a valve spring you will have valve train noise, And where on the coil around the spring did it brake would determine how bad it would be . If it broke in the middle you most likely have dropped a valve and blown the engine. And also, make shore the plug wire end that goes to the coil (clicks twice) if they dont, you will get a misfire.
I had a similar problem a while back and it was water in the gas , Just a thought .What made me think about it was ,you said it comes and goes. I drought you have a cracked valve spring , if i cracks it brakes. Have you noticed any valve train noise ? Usually if you brake a valve spring you will have valve train noise, And where on the coil around the spring did it brake would determine how bad it would be . If it broke in the middle you most likely have dropped a valve and blown the engine. And also, make shore the plug wire end that goes to the coil (clicks twice) if they dont, you will get a misfire.
Hey Randy WS6. I think I remember you from a LS1 tech forum. Small world. I have a green 1995 T/A (old school LT1).. Sorry to hijack your thread FYREANT. As I recall, Randy was pretty darn knowledgeable!
Hey Randy WS6. I think I remember you from a LS1 tech forum. Small world. I have a green 1995 T/A (old school LT1).. Sorry to hijack your thread FYREANT. As I recall, Randy was pretty darn knowledgeable!
Thanks, I have built a few LSX engines in my life ,lol... I'm starting on a 2013 Grand Sport next week for a engine rebuild
I had a similar problem a while back and it was water in the gas , Just a thought .What made me think about it was ,you said it comes and goes. I drought you have a cracked valve spring , if i cracks it brakes. Have you noticed any valve train noise ? Usually if you brake a valve spring you will have valve train noise, And where on the coil around the spring did it brake would determine how bad it would be . If it broke in the middle you most likely have dropped a valve and blown the engine. And also, make shore the plug wire end that goes to the coil (clicks twice) if they dont, you will get a misfire.
I totally agree on the valve spring. I did not think that was the issue, although since we really had no idea what the issue was I figured it wouldn't hurt to pull the valve covers and check everything out. I want to say that I'm pretty sure I have gone through an entire tank of gas or more just driving around, and up to FSP and back a few times, so I don't know that it would be water in the gas unless there was a leak and it keeps getting in there...? I'll make sure to double and triple check the plug wires when I swap them also ...
Do you or any body you know have a hand held data recorder , like EFI Live or HP Tuner so you could record the data and catch the stumble or misfire .That would tell you if it was electrical or lead you to a mechanical problem , These E92 ecm's can really break down faults and lead you to the problem . I never go out with out my EFI Live V2 hooked up if I'm going to play. I also Have the Alkey Meth but a single nozzle & A&A SC . I guess you are running 100% meth right ? not a mix.
Does your tuner have some experience with the E92 ecms with the LT1 ? You could have problems with axle or engine torque management & throttle management or timing controls. You would not believe what the engine & axle torque controller will do to you. To bad we dont live closer , i would hook my laptop to it, and we would find to culprit.
Also , i read where you said your tune is dedicated to Meth, If you get you a programmer like i have , You can have your tuner build you a tune with meth and with out meth , Thats what i have . So went I'm on a long trip , like going to Florida on vacation and run out of meth , i Just install the no meth tune and every thing is fine.
Does your tuner have some experience with the E92 ecms with the LT1 ? You could have problems with axle or engine torque management & throttle management or timing controls. You would not believe what the engine & axle torque controller will do to you. To bad we dont live closer , i would hook my laptop to it, and we would find to culprit.
That's what I suggested to Anthony. My tuner said, if we can see it, we can fix it. I wouldn't believe this condition is not logging the event! Sounds like a trip to Vengeance Racing would be money and time well spent. Put this matter behind you and have the confidence in knowing you are getting the most power and reliability available.
Also , i read where you said your tune is dedicated to Meth, If you get you a programmer like i have , You can have your tuner build you a tune with meth and with out meth , Thats what i have . So went I'm on a long trip , like going to Florida on vacation and run out of meth , i Just install the no meth tune and every thing is fine.
The issue is above a certain HP level on the DI stuff you need the meth for fuel. There is no such thing as a no meth tune above about 625-650 rwhp. The injectors do not have time to complete the squirt between EVC cam event and ignition spark event. You either wash out the spark or you blow your fuel out the open exhaust valve.
On a port injected motor, the injector sprays against a closed exhaust valve all the while the exhaust valve is open and it doesn't matter. You lose a bit during overlap but that is a brief moment of time vs half the exhaust stroke on a DI motor.
On a basic kit with 550-600 rwhp there is no issue.
FyreAnt, this is going to be almost impossible to diagnose without seeing the tune. You are welcome to email it to me via PM comm.
How much power did you put down? You could very well be spraying through the spark event and depending on what the tuner did with some of the spark retard tables, the ECM may not have the authority to retard spark enough to keep it lit.