'16 Z51 Arctic White track build
10-12-2016, 11:04 PM
#321
Pro
Great write up as always. The girodisc rear rotors look good - any issues installing them and adjusting the parking brake?
ps. do you use red or blue loctite for caliper bolts? - i've heard arguments both ways.
ps. do you use red or blue loctite for caliper bolts? - i've heard arguments both ways.
10-12-2016, 11:25 PM
#322
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Actually, silly me, I didn't care to adjust rear brakes, and it turns out the Girodisc had much lower clearance. Instead of adjusting it, I just hammered it on. Once I changed my mind, it was too late; it didn't want to come out. It kept slowing down the car for the first 5 miles or so. Next time I put the car on the lift, now that it relaxed a bit, I'll remove it and adjust.
Regarding brake caliper bolts, I learned my lesson from previous failures, and I always use wedge lock washers. These washers never ever open up with vibration, and they're a much better fit than any loctite product since we reopen these bolts all the time.
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daleong (10-13-2016)
10-13-2016, 11:04 AM
#323
Pro
I've personally always replaced the bolts with new OEM bolts with the thread locker that comes on it. Never had an issue on my ZL1 and I changed those out several times and every time I went to take them off I nearly gave myself a hernia getting those bolts off.
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daleong (10-13-2016)
10-15-2016, 08:40 AM
#324
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Finally received my remaining two RaceRamps brand wheel stands, and used them to adjust the height of the car. The reason why I need them is:
(1) The lift arms never stop touching, even at lowest position.
(2) Sway bar end-links can only be adjusted for zero load when the car is fully lowered.
Especially if you would like to adjust coilovers from under the car with the tires still on, having two spanners is a must. Also note the different tooth length. When accessing from tight corners, usually only one of the spanners can reach a slot to turn the perch.
These 12" wheel stands made it very easy to adjust the coilovers, and lower the car back on stands to take suspension height measurements.I disconnected sway bar end-links during the height adjustment to avoid any interference.
My stunt double. I cleaned up the fire extinguishers this time : P
Height adjustments:
Anthony suggested I should try 4 turns up front, and 6 turns at the rear to achieve my original goal of 0.5" (~13mm) drop. Even though he says this is not an issue, I am really bummed that I have to add that much pre-load to achieve my height goals, and wish the kit came with an adjustable body for height. Anyway, apparently there is a longer body available as well (which they use with the 1" drop spindles); I'd highly recommend that, and will probably get it myself next time these coilovers are out of the car for any reason.
I decided to drop about 15mm from stock. As such, I set my goals as ~685mm front, 720mm rear (with these tires; actual suspension rake is much less).
Heights in the order of corners listed below: LF, RF, RR, LR (in mm)
So, in addition to the initial +3mm preload I made, I did:
LF: 6 turns
RF: 4.5 turns
RR: 4.5 turns
LR: 5.9 turns
Car height seems to be much better now, and is similar to my Miata and other track cars I've had before, judging from the clearances with the lift arms. I suppose I should've taken a side pic : )
What bothers me is that the clearances between sway bar endlinks and the coilover springs are very low. I wonder if they will touch during track use. Curiously, one side of the sway bar has a comfortable ~2mm clearance, while the other side is almost touching. The sway bars seem to be longer than OEM counterparts, which might be the reason for this issue.
Alignment is scheduled on Monday, and if everything goes as planned, I should have the track day next weekend on 10/22!
(1) The lift arms never stop touching, even at lowest position.
(2) Sway bar end-links can only be adjusted for zero load when the car is fully lowered.
Especially if you would like to adjust coilovers from under the car with the tires still on, having two spanners is a must. Also note the different tooth length. When accessing from tight corners, usually only one of the spanners can reach a slot to turn the perch.
These 12" wheel stands made it very easy to adjust the coilovers, and lower the car back on stands to take suspension height measurements.I disconnected sway bar end-links during the height adjustment to avoid any interference.
My stunt double. I cleaned up the fire extinguishers this time : P
Height adjustments:
Anthony suggested I should try 4 turns up front, and 6 turns at the rear to achieve my original goal of 0.5" (~13mm) drop. Even though he says this is not an issue, I am really bummed that I have to add that much pre-load to achieve my height goals, and wish the kit came with an adjustable body for height. Anyway, apparently there is a longer body available as well (which they use with the 1" drop spindles); I'd highly recommend that, and will probably get it myself next time these coilovers are out of the car for any reason.
I decided to drop about 15mm from stock. As such, I set my goals as ~685mm front, 720mm rear (with these tires; actual suspension rake is much less).
Heights in the order of corners listed below: LF, RF, RR, LR (in mm)
- Previous measurements:
- Stock, 37% fuel, no ballast
- 711, 710, 741, 747
- Stock, %72 fuel, ballast
- 699, 701, 736, 737
- LG G2, 80% fuel, my brother (210 lbs)
- 671, 675, 705, 702
- Stock, 37% fuel, no ballast
- Today's measurements:
- LG G2, 80% fuel, Mr. Ballast, race ramp
- 668, 674, 708, 706
- +4 turns all
- 676, 682, 716, 712
- +1 L (both lefts), +0.5R (both rights)
- 679, 685, 719, 715
- +0.5L
- 681, 685, 720, 718
- +0.5 LF, +0.4LR
- 683, 685, 720, 720 (FINAL)
- LG G2, 80% fuel, Mr. Ballast, race ramp
So, in addition to the initial +3mm preload I made, I did:
LF: 6 turns
RF: 4.5 turns
RR: 4.5 turns
LR: 5.9 turns
Car height seems to be much better now, and is similar to my Miata and other track cars I've had before, judging from the clearances with the lift arms. I suppose I should've taken a side pic : )
What bothers me is that the clearances between sway bar endlinks and the coilover springs are very low. I wonder if they will touch during track use. Curiously, one side of the sway bar has a comfortable ~2mm clearance, while the other side is almost touching. The sway bars seem to be longer than OEM counterparts, which might be the reason for this issue.
Alignment is scheduled on Monday, and if everything goes as planned, I should have the track day next weekend on 10/22!
Last edited by X25; 10-15-2016 at 08:59 AM.
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daleong (10-15-2016)
10-15-2016, 09:38 AM
#325
Are you using a lithium battery?
10-15-2016, 09:40 AM
#326
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
10-15-2016, 10:08 AM
#327
Burning Brakes
[QUOTE=X25;1593259126]Finally received my remaining two RaceRamps brand wheel stands....
These 12" wheel stands made it very easy to adjust the coilovers, and lower the car back on stands to take suspension height measurements.I disconnected sway bar end-links during the height adjustment to avoid any interference. QUOTE]
I wonder if you could use these to also do alignments?
These 12" wheel stands made it very easy to adjust the coilovers, and lower the car back on stands to take suspension height measurements.I disconnected sway bar end-links during the height adjustment to avoid any interference. QUOTE]
I wonder if you could use these to also do alignments?
10-15-2016, 01:08 PM
#328
10-15-2016, 06:15 PM
#329
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
I've had mixed experiences with the Li-Ion batteries. They're supposed to last much longer than regular batteries, but in practice, they can be very easily deep-cycled.
Braille's higher end units ($1500+) have the appropriate safety circuits that avoid the damaging higher voltages (alternators and chargers produce from time to time) and the deep cycling, but the price is ridiculous. I'd never buy one.
I've later experimented with Anti-gravity (deep cycled), Shorai (still have it for my Miata), and Smart-Battery (its so-called protection circuit never even allowed cranking), not to mention some of the famous lightweight AGM batteries.
One thing I've noticed with my '14 Camaro was that the battery is already protected by the car once the voltage gets below a certain level. It makes me wonder: if our cars also have this protection system, it could be perfect for cheap Li-Ion batteries with no protection. That said, I don't know if the protection levels (voltage window) is appropriate for these batteries, since it is meant to protect a traditional battery.
Braille's higher end units ($1500+) have the appropriate safety circuits that avoid the damaging higher voltages (alternators and chargers produce from time to time) and the deep cycling, but the price is ridiculous. I'd never buy one.
I've later experimented with Anti-gravity (deep cycled), Shorai (still have it for my Miata), and Smart-Battery (its so-called protection circuit never even allowed cranking), not to mention some of the famous lightweight AGM batteries.
One thing I've noticed with my '14 Camaro was that the battery is already protected by the car once the voltage gets below a certain level. It makes me wonder: if our cars also have this protection system, it could be perfect for cheap Li-Ion batteries with no protection. That said, I don't know if the protection levels (voltage window) is appropriate for these batteries, since it is meant to protect a traditional battery.
Last edited by X25; 10-15-2016 at 06:16 PM.
10-16-2016, 04:49 AM
#330
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Just finished installing the fender spats, too:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1593264152
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1593264152
Z06 fender spats can be easily added onto a Stingray / Z51 with no aftermarket aero, but what about when you have aero? This is my take on adding these spats onto my car that has full APR Stage 3 aero kit with canards.
Take the wheel off, and start by removing the 3 T15 bolts that hold the front side of the fender (and the canard). Then remove the 7mm bolt at the bottom of the car, holding the air dam. This bolt also holds the end of the fender spat.
Cut the tab by the end of the Z06 fender spat. That tab does not fit onto Stingray fenders. Don't shorten the length of spats, just cut the tab out. I highly recommend using a blade to have clear cuts.
Cut out the outdents around the bolt holes since we need to make it flush to the aftermarket canard.
Also cut the protruding edge of the spats by the bolts. This section pushes the spat away from the APR canards, and we need to make it flush. Just 1-2mm of depth is enough. Don't do too deep, or it will cut through it. This doesn't need to be pretty, since it would be covered by the APR canard.
Let's put it in. Start by the 7 mm bolt at the from bottom by the air dam.
As you can see, the little remaining plastic by the tab we just cut will be used to secure the end using the mud flaps.
Start installing the bolts by the front canard. This is a bit hard, since the bolt length is not enough to easily secure the thread. One trick I did was to use the 7mm bolts by the bottom of the mud flaps. These have same threads, but are longer. I used those 7mm bolts up front, and used one of the fender bolts at that location, which was more than enough. You can also go to your hardware store and find bolts with same thread an a bit longer body. Once you put in one of the bolts, the plastic pieces are put much closer, so you could even use the original bolts at this point (i.e. using only the 7mm from the mudflap is enough; you can use the original bolts for the remaining two locations, once the plastic pieces are sandwiched closer by the 7mm socket bolt).
Once everything seems to fit, go ahead an pull the plastics from the adhesive strips.
OPTIONAL: You can also cut the spat from the middle bolt down, since the area is completely covered by the aftermarket canard. It would also provide more clearance.
DONE!
Take the wheel off, and start by removing the 3 T15 bolts that hold the front side of the fender (and the canard). Then remove the 7mm bolt at the bottom of the car, holding the air dam. This bolt also holds the end of the fender spat.
Cut the tab by the end of the Z06 fender spat. That tab does not fit onto Stingray fenders. Don't shorten the length of spats, just cut the tab out. I highly recommend using a blade to have clear cuts.
Cut out the outdents around the bolt holes since we need to make it flush to the aftermarket canard.
Also cut the protruding edge of the spats by the bolts. This section pushes the spat away from the APR canards, and we need to make it flush. Just 1-2mm of depth is enough. Don't do too deep, or it will cut through it. This doesn't need to be pretty, since it would be covered by the APR canard.
Let's put it in. Start by the 7 mm bolt at the from bottom by the air dam.
As you can see, the little remaining plastic by the tab we just cut will be used to secure the end using the mud flaps.
Start installing the bolts by the front canard. This is a bit hard, since the bolt length is not enough to easily secure the thread. One trick I did was to use the 7mm bolts by the bottom of the mud flaps. These have same threads, but are longer. I used those 7mm bolts up front, and used one of the fender bolts at that location, which was more than enough. You can also go to your hardware store and find bolts with same thread an a bit longer body. Once you put in one of the bolts, the plastic pieces are put much closer, so you could even use the original bolts at this point (i.e. using only the 7mm from the mudflap is enough; you can use the original bolts for the remaining two locations, once the plastic pieces are sandwiched closer by the 7mm socket bolt).
Once everything seems to fit, go ahead an pull the plastics from the adhesive strips.
OPTIONAL: You can also cut the spat from the middle bolt down, since the area is completely covered by the aftermarket canard. It would also provide more clearance.
DONE!
Last edited by X25; 10-16-2016 at 04:55 AM.
10-16-2016, 04:53 AM
#331
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
This concludes my first stint of mods! If everything works out, there should hopefully not be any more major mods. Once I get it aligned (on Monday), I will hopefully be ready for the next weekend;s track day!
Current mods list
Legend: Planned | Ordered | Received | Installed
Current mods list
Legend: Planned | Ordered | Received | Installed
- Engine / Powertrain
- Z06 cooling upgrades:
- Power steering gear cooling duct instructions, 157.
- Duct (15842373)
- Rear Deflector (23135212)
- Interior
- OEM D Shaped Steering Wheel Manual Suede Black Stitching (23273168). 39, 131.
- OEM 7SPD Manual Suede Shift **** Black Stitching (24269693). 39.
- OEM C7 Genuine GM Suede Shift Boot Black Stitching (23174526). 39.
- Sharkbar gloss black with lap-belt-bar-kit. 186.
- Schroth Profi II ASM race harness in gray.
- OEM Competition seat conversion kit w/suede/heater delete. $1640 shipped. 186.
- Seat bottom cushion covers; black w/suede insert for GT seats (23133448, 22997067).
- Handling
- OEM (Bosch) Digital Angle Gauge Adapter. Needed to adjust rear caster (CH-47960-10). 81.
- OEM T1 (23336064) Competition suspension LCAs with up to 500% stiffer bushings. 39.
- LG G2 Coilovers with 750 lbs/in front and 700 lbs/in rear springs. 227, 311.
- LG G7 Sway bars + adjustable endlinks. 311.
- Granatelli rear adjustable toe links. link. 291.
- Aero
- Tires / Wheels
- Brakes
- Fluids
- Engine oil: Mobil1 5W-30 or 0W-40.
- Differential oil: GM 88862624.
- Transmission oil: Amsoil Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF.
- Brake fluid: Motul RBF 600.
- Coolant: GM DexCool @30%.
- Suspension grease: Amsoil Synthetic Polymeric Truck, Chassis and Equipment Grease, NLGI #2.
Last edited by X25; 10-16-2016 at 04:53 AM.
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w00tw00t (10-16-2016)
10-17-2016, 06:37 AM
#332
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
2 more pics of finished car from today.
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daleong (10-17-2016)
10-17-2016, 12:09 PM
#333
Pro
Awesome - Racecar!!
10-19-2016, 06:26 AM
#334
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Saturday track day is confirmed, so the judgement day is near. We'll see if this setup will run, and if it will perform well; I'm very excited! I will put the car on trailer and stay safe since the weather is getting worse, especially by the passes.
Anyway, alignment is done:
I love how the car looks now! I really didn't like it the day I received the car, but it has been a good transformation
I like it so much, I'm even considering getting LG's wheels (which clear Z06 iron brakes) to use them for the inclement weather with appropriate tires in winter time.
Anyway, alignment is done:
- Front
- -2.5 - -2.6 camber
- 0.05 front toe out per corner
- 7 degrees caster
- Rear
- -2.1 - -2.2 camber
- 0.05 toe in per corner
- 0 degrees caster
I love how the car looks now! I really didn't like it the day I received the car, but it has been a good transformation
I like it so much, I'm even considering getting LG's wheels (which clear Z06 iron brakes) to use them for the inclement weather with appropriate tires in winter time.
Last edited by X25; 10-19-2016 at 06:29 AM.
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daleong (10-19-2016)
10-19-2016, 09:53 AM
#335
Pro
Car looks great, I look forward to hearing your feedback on the set up. It's interesting because you did a toe alignment how I would traditionally do it (and did do with my ZL1), yet GM's specs contradict conventional wisdom.
10-19-2016, 02:39 PM
#336
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
His feedback was that the rears don't get benefit past -2 camber on his car, and even with Pirelli slicks, he thinks he can do even better at -3 or more up front. He also suggested 0 or minor toe out up front, which is in line with conventional wisdom.
Currently, my biggest worry is if it will rub. It'd be quite disappointing to drive 5 hours to ORP, stay at a hotel the night before, etc., only to see in the first 20 minutes of track time that I will destroy the fenders in short order.
Fingers crossed!!
10-19-2016, 02:52 PM
#337
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I will say this, on our car, I have ZERO shims on the upper control arms so I could tip the top of the tire in and gain more fender clearance. Not sure how many you have up there on the car, but given how much camber I'm going to say you won't have any shims up there either.
10-19-2016, 03:50 PM
#338
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
I will say this, on our car, I have ZERO shims on the upper control arms so I could tip the top of the tire in and gain more fender clearance. Not sure how many you have up there on the car, but given how much camber I'm going to say you won't have any shims up there either.
I removed one of the 2 shims from all corners of the car, but left one since GM states I have to have at least one. I am not sure why GM asks for at least one, but if it is just to have a washer, I suppose I could replace it with a regular thin washer when/if I need to : )
I'm currently at -2.5 - -2.6 up front (the machine kept changing its mind). If it rubs, I suppose I could get it to about -3, which should be OK for NT01s (manufacturer recommends -2.5 - -5 range for this tire), but I don't know what I'd need to do to at the rear match corner grip of fronts, and you already said rears don't benefit much past -2.
When it rubbed, it was at about -2.2 up front, and -1.9 at the rear at 15mm higher suspension height, but with softer springs and sway bars. I should also note I set the front sway at the stiffer setting to balance front 315s to rear 325s, which should also help.
I literally can't wait to try it out.
Last edited by X25; 10-19-2016 at 03:51 PM.
10-19-2016, 04:27 PM
#339
Pro
Apparently I forgot that you were going to run 315s up front.
So if I haven't said this already, that's insane lol. Especially on the stock fenders. I've seriously considered what the Z51 would look like with GS/Z06 front fenders but stock rear fenders (since they're bonded to the car). The front fenders aren't THAT much wider I don't think.
So if I haven't said this already, that's insane lol. Especially on the stock fenders. I've seriously considered what the Z51 would look like with GS/Z06 front fenders but stock rear fenders (since they're bonded to the car). The front fenders aren't THAT much wider I don't think.
10-19-2016, 05:44 PM
#340
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Apparently I forgot that you were going to run 315s up front.
So if I haven't said this already, that's insane lol. Especially on the stock fenders. I've seriously considered what the Z51 would look like with GS/Z06 front fenders but stock rear fenders (since they're bonded to the car). The front fenders aren't THAT much wider I don't think.
So if I haven't said this already, that's insane lol. Especially on the stock fenders. I've seriously considered what the Z51 would look like with GS/Z06 front fenders but stock rear fenders (since they're bonded to the car). The front fenders aren't THAT much wider I don't think.