X pipe.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 5,712
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From: Irving, TX
I just installed a used Corsa catless X-pipe. It was a fun little project but I'm not sure it was anything close to being worth the cost of the part (and the tank of gas it took to go get it). I'm considering swapping back and selling the x-pipe locally to fund a new V1 G2. I can't tell any difference in sound to be honest. As someone else said maybe a slight increase in cold start which is cool but not worth $500.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
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From: Loveland
In reference to the MacA1979 post I just got the original X-pipe off and measured it 3 times, it is exactly 54 inches long from the front flange surface to the back end of the pipe. I thought it was interesting, the rear clamps are welded to the X-pipe. Now waiting for the new pipe, should be here Thursday.
What I am going to check, is the length of slots at the ends of the new pipes compared to the original, obviously these slots need to be covered to prevent leaks. This will also determine how long the new pipe needs to be.
What I am going to check, is the length of slots at the ends of the new pipes compared to the original, obviously these slots need to be covered to prevent leaks. This will also determine how long the new pipe needs to be.
Last edited by kodpkd; Nov 7, 2023 at 02:50 PM.
Always Shiftin'
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Central Florida
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Also, as a reminder, when you put the clamps on to connect the two sections make sure the bolts are located on the top of the assembly. If not on top, then the bolts will hit the tunnel plate. Make sure you tightened them real good because you won't have access to them once you complete the installation.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
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From: Loveland
Also, as a reminder, when you put the clamps on to connect the two sections make sure the bolts are located on the top of the assembly. If not on top, then the bolts will hit the tunnel plate. Make sure you tightened them real good because you won't have access to them once you complete the installation.
Always Shiftin'
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Central Florida
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Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2019
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From: nashville TN
I would suggest you install the rear section first. use the small clamps. then the front section with the large clamps slid on before connecting the sections. you have to configure the clamps so 1 is on top and the other is at an angle you can tighten the nuts. no room for both on top. at the downpipes remove the springs that come with the kit the bolts aren't long enough to use the springs and get the nuts started. just leave them off.once everything is fitted then you can tighten it all down and have the needed length
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Always Shiftin'
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Central Florida
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
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From: Loveland
Got R done. My car is still up on the QUICKJACK, waiting for the front fender, it's kind of hard to tell if it's any different. It did seem to rev very quick. I hope the car will be together soon and I can take it for a proper test drive.
What worked for me,,,, Stand both pipes up side by side and make the new two piece pipe match the original. It's important to match the length as well as how the two pieces line up. Tighten up the middle clamps and install it like a single piece pipe. The center clamps can be installed facing up and a bit to the inside so they don't rub against the outside of the tunnel.
What worked for me,,,, Stand both pipes up side by side and make the new two piece pipe match the original. It's important to match the length as well as how the two pieces line up. Tighten up the middle clamps and install it like a single piece pipe. The center clamps can be installed facing up and a bit to the inside so they don't rub against the outside of the tunnel.
Last edited by kodpkd; Nov 11, 2023 at 07:36 PM.
Always Shiftin'
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Central Florida
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