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The dealer says it is actually the solenoid valve cover (lid) plate gasket that is leaking and we are waiting parts. The location he identified as leaking is just in front of the drive shaft and in the areas that have been identified as being porosity-prone, but he feels 98.5% confident that it is just the cover leaking and not a porosity issue. Fingers crossed that he's right once the parts come in!
If they didn't try some tracing powder and you still have the car, maybe you can stuff some papertowels into the porosity issue area and see if you can catch some oil leaking there?
I can reach that area using my grabber and/or borescope, but you might need to remove the driver side rear tire for access.
The dealer says it is actually the solenoid valve cover (lid) plate gasket that is leaking and we are waiting parts. The location he identified as leaking is just in front of the drive shaft and in the areas that have been identified as being porosity-prone, but he feels 98.5% confident that it is just the cover leaking and not a porosity issue.
Those are great odds. Would love to hear how he came up with that statistically validated confidence level.
If they didn't try some tracing powder and you still have the car, maybe you can stuff some papertowels into the porosity issue area and see if you can catch some oil leaking there?
I can reach that area using my grabber and/or borescope, but you might need to remove the driver side rear tire for access.
As I mentioned the car is still with the dealer awaiting the parts and so I have no need to look any further at this time. They did use the "white powder" method to identify the leak source and they are convinced that it does originate at the solenoid cover. The attached picture was AFTER the powder had sat for over 24 hours and so it indicates not only the cover seal but also back into the porosity-prone area; they are confident that the white powder saturation was due to the 24-hour period and not due to a porosity situation.
I didn't choose this dealer at random; I chose them because they are recognized as "the vette experts" in this area - they are certainly not in a convenient place for me to get to, but they have seen the trans issues and have the experience that I can (currently) trust. We discussed the porosity issues at length because that is a concern of mine (but wasn't it corrected mid-2021??) but they have a process/procedure that they follow and at this point I would rather have just a leaking cover than be in for a complete transmission change out. The 98.5% was my number because as any sane person would realize, there is always that chance to be wrong! So far this dealer has displayed nothing but the right knowledge of the C8 and its issues and has my full confidence. I have no reason to praise the dealer, trust me, and up to this point have been very critical of their sales operation (I ended up not buying this C8 through them as a result), but having invested the time to talk with my two most local vette dealers, so far their service department has come out way ahead. As I said, I don't want to go the new trans route and so I'm hoping it is the cover and can move on, but if in the end a new trans is what happens, I will at least know we did eliminate all the other options.
My original point in the post was to "encourage" others to check early for trans leaks because they may not be immediately obvious. It is not visible through the wheel well and, yes, I can see it on my boroscope BUT only because I know where to look and what to look for. The trans fluid is very clear and has a very thin film which makes it all but invisible unless it puddles. Hindsight is always 20/20 vision.
Those are great odds. Would love to hear how he came up with that statistically validated confidence level.
Everything you do is not always 100% correct and there is always a chance to be wrong, as in this case. It's a process and not a leap to a conclusion; I would much rather the outcome be they were correct and that I don't go through a new trans scenario. BUT, in my mind, I'm betting that case porosity becomes the issue and a new trans will be needed.
As I mentioned the car is still with the dealer awaiting the parts and so I have no need to look any further at this time. They did use the "white powder" method to identify the leak source and they are convinced that it does originate at the solenoid cover. The attached picture was AFTER the powder had sat for over 24 hours and so it indicates not only the cover seal but also back into the porosity-prone area; they are confident that the white powder saturation was due to the 24-hour period and not due to a porosity situation.
I didn't choose this dealer at random; I chose them because they are recognized as "the vette experts" in this area - they are certainly not in a convenient place for me to get to, but they have seen the trans issues and have the experience that I can (currently) trust. We discussed the porosity issues at length because that is a concern of mine (but wasn't it corrected mid-2021??) but they have a process/procedure that they follow and at this point I would rather have just a leaking cover than be in for a complete transmission change out. The 98.5% was my number because as any sane person would realize, there is always that chance to be wrong! So far this dealer has displayed nothing but the right knowledge of the C8 and its issues and has my full confidence. I have no reason to praise the dealer, trust me, and up to this point have been very critical of their sales operation (I ended up not buying this C8 through them as a result), but having invested the time to talk with my two most local vette dealers, so far their service department has come out way ahead. As I said, I don't want to go the new trans route and so I'm hoping it is the cover and can move on, but if in the end a new trans is what happens, I will at least know we did eliminate all the other options.
My original point in the post was to "encourage" others to check early for trans leaks because they may not be immediately obvious. It is not visible through the wheel well and, yes, I can see it on my boroscope BUT only because I know where to look and what to look for. The trans fluid is very clear and has a very thin film which makes it all but invisible unless it puddles. Hindsight is always 20/20 vision.
Sounds like you got it under control. Glad to hear they did a tracing powder test. Agree on other points, people should check for these issues especially during the break in period.
2022 with 350 miles Sounds like I’m getting a faint lifter tick .Anyone else have something similar ? Will Chevy say its within parameters and not fix it ?
2022 with 350 miles Sounds like I’m getting a faint lifter tick .Anyone else have something similar ? Will Chevy say its within parameters and not fix it ?
Get some more miles on it first. At 350 miles every tick, tock, and sqeak seems more than it should; let things settle in.
2022 Coupe - Jan Build. Based on the information on these forums and reading some of the Vette Titan's notes, I decided to change the DCT Filter at the 2,500 mile mark. I had previously added 1.8L of additional DCT fluid at 1,000 miles. On the "good" side the filter looked in fairly good shape with no major debris visible when I dismantled the used filter to look at the inside layers. Based on my observations I will have no reservations in waiting until the 7,500 mile service for the next filter change. However, upon dropping the shear plate I found a good amount of fresh DCT fluid on the shear plate and on the external parts of the transmission sump pan. I could see no evidence of leakage above the trans sump pan and concluded that the sump pan gasket was leaking. A quick check of the sump pan bolts found them all tight.
The trans leakage was the "not so good" part but I feel fortunate to have found this leak early because of doing an early DCT filter change. There was no evidence of oil drips on my garage floor but a little more checking shows that the air flow over the shear plate was enough to slowly push the leaking DCT fluid to the rear valance and then onto the exhaust where it was neatly burnt off!
The dealer says it is actually the solenoid valve cover (lid) plate gasket that is leaking and we are waiting parts. The location he identified as leaking is just in front of the drive shaft and in the areas that have been identified as being porosity-prone, but he feels 98.5% confident that it is just the cover leaking and not a porosity issue. Fingers crossed that he's right once the parts come in!
One last comment on the DCT Filter and its internal "pressure valve". A number of posters have referred to this as a "poppet valve" whose operation is either "OPEN" or "CLOSE" but the filter that I disassembled clearly have a valve that would open "PROPORTIONALLY" i.e acting as a pressure relief only for that fluid that couldn't pass through the filter materials.
2022 with 350 miles Sounds like I’m getting a faint lifter tick .Anyone else have something similar ? Will Chevy say its within parameters and not fix it ?
2022 with 300 miles, Drivers side door gets stuck and jams closed when opening from the inside. Never happened when using the exterior door, but happens a few times a week (not every time!) on the interior door. I took a video, dealer couldn't replicate it but is replacing the mechanism anyway.
2022 with 300 miles, Drivers side door gets stuck and jams closed when opening from the inside. Never happened when using the exterior door, but happens a few times a week (not every time!) on the interior door. I took a video, dealer couldn't replicate it but is replacing the mechanism anyway.
If the door is stuck using the silver button from inside, does it still work if someone uses the exterior button/handle?
If it still works from the outside, it sounds more like an electrical problem with the button. Did you make sure the red light is off on the lock status?
If the door is stuck using the silver button from inside, does it still work if someone uses the exterior button/handle?
If it still works from the outside, it sounds more like an electrical problem with the button. Did you make sure the red light is off on the lock status?
Yes to both, red light off and lock status off. The dealer is replacing the button and the entire drivers side door mechanism, luckily they have the parts in stock or local, should only take a day or two. Warranty repair obviously
2022 with 350 miles Sounds like I’m getting a faint lifter tick .Anyone else have something similar ? Will Chevy say its within parameters and not fix it ?
My 2020 had the faint ticking sound. They said it was the high pressure injectors. I also had a louder ticking sound that turned out to be bad valve guides. Got both cylinder heads replaced at 600 miles.
From: Virginia Beach, VA & Port Charlotte, FL (snowbird)
Originally Posted by Alohabob
My 2020 had the faint ticking sound. They said it was the high pressure injectors. I also had a louder ticking sound that turned out to be bad valve guides. Got both cylinder heads replaced at 600 miles.
It sounds like they installed LS7 heads by mistake. lol...J/K
Sounds like you got it under control. Glad to hear they did a tracing powder test. Agree on other points, people should check for these issues especially during the break in period.
Just some pictures to close this out; I think the (lack of) quality in the casting speaks for itself. It probably leaks more under pressure but oil was still running out as it sits on the shop floor. They said the new casting does look better so lets hope that looks are everything on this!! For reference, this is looking down onto the web brace to the output drive casting; the output drive casting is on the left of the pictures. Classic porosity failure location.
Dealer said it was the worst looking casting they have seen and they have done more trans replacements than you should expect; I'm of the opinion that TREMEC and GM QA should have picked this kind of issue up before it ever made it into the vehicle. For reference, the old trans was built December 09 2021.
My 2020 had the faint ticking sound. They said it was the high pressure injectors. I also had a louder ticking sound that turned out to be bad valve guides. Got both cylinder heads replaced at 600 miles.
Lifter valve failures? Sounds like the "Hemi Tick". Maybe it's a Dodge?
My HTC has started making a rather loud "clicking" or "snapping" noise when I raise the roof. I can't see any damage. Taking to the dealer in a week to see what's causing it.
My HTC has started making a rather loud "clicking" or "snapping" noise when I raise the roof. I can't see any damage. Taking to the dealer in a week to see what's causing it.
Check out the interior trim pieces that fold over the passenger side. I’ll try to add a pic later. I had a similar issue.
