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I'm having a hard time believing the design relies on the cable being an exact length - with no mechanism for tolerating slight variations, such a spring in series with the cable, or maybe software process that senses where the motion wants to to stop (the way power windows work or the way the exhaust flow control valve re-learn works). I looked at the mechanism to see if there is any mechanical means for that - did not see any. I guess folks that have looked at this carefully have noticed there is a whole other cable attached to that box thing, and the entire box slides back and forth as the top is opened and closed (I just watch it operate). That other cable goes down out of sight but appears to be attached to motor in what I think is one of the folding top control modules. I can only speculate on how it works or adjusts, but you can see what it is.
From: South Lousiana (Cajun Boys with Bad ASS Toys)
Originally Posted by badbillyb70
Since I have lots of time on my side since i am retired, I have been reading how to put an end stop on wire cables. Most of the You Tube videos show guys putting and end stop on clutch cables or brake cables for motorcycles. Most make a mold out of wood or metal (watch a video)and put solder on the end using the mold they have made and making some kind of ball of solder that would fit in the black box on the C8. I dont know how much weight or strength that is needed for the HTC cable versus the motorcycle application. I am going to make a cable with a solder ball on the end and see how much weight i can put on that ball of solder by pulling on it with a piece of wood going through the cable and being stopped by the ball.
I have put a screw on type ferrule on the wire and it could not take much weight at all. The crimp on ferrule seemed to take a lot of weight before it pulled off but i dont know how much weight/pressure is on the HTC cable and stop. I bought the 1/16 aircraft grade cable , ferrules at Home Depot for about $15 and had to buy a crimper but it can be used for other jobs around the house. The solder end you will need solder, flux and a torch which I already had and will try that test next week. If anyone knows how much weight /pressure the wire stop needs to hold, that would be helpful, It would be interesting to know at what weight pressure the OEM cable stop is failing at. The cable itself appears not to be the weak link in the failure.
Thanks
Bill
I'm having a hard time believing the design relies on the cable being an exact length - with no mechanism for tolerating slight variations, such a spring in series with the cable, or maybe software process that senses where the motion wants to to stop (the way power windows work or the way the exhaust flow control valve re-learn works). I looked at the mechanism to see if there is any mechanical means for that - did not see any. I guess folks that have looked at this carefully have noticed there is a whole other cable attached to that box thing, and the entire box slides back and forth as the top is opened and closed (I just watch it operate). That other cable goes down out of sight but appears to be attached to motor in what I think is one of the folding top control modules. I can only speculate on how it works or adjusts, but you can see what it is.
Thanks. I haven't been following this thread closely, so did not know about your post. It confirms there is a spring in there to provide some tolerance to small variations in the cable length. And I see you also show a way to adjust the length by the way you re-connected the cables.
I occurs to me also that if the re-attachment is done such that its slightly too long, then it can be fine tuned using some split shims next to the end part.
My cable pulled out of the flat piece that slides into the end of the plastic box. I crimped a ferrule onto the end of the cable. It may have been 1/8" to 1/4" farther into the ferrule than the cable was in the original disc. Now, I can't manage to get the cable into the box. I can't tell if there is spring tension on the cable and I just don't have enough strength to pull it and slide it into the end of the box. I believe the new cable comes with the entire bracket. Perhaps you slide the cable into the box and then tighten the bracket down and it then takes up the slack. Has anyone installed the cable themselves and understand the process?
GM Premium Platinum DOES NOT cover it. I just found out today for my 5 year old 2021 C8. I plan on the zip tie method until I figure out a path forward. Dealership repair bill would have been $1229.71
That price is complete crap to have it fixed. If it was designed correctly it should never fail!!!!
I have read a lot on this forum about possible fixes but never a complete install on how to adjust etc.. I have not seen any where that it shows how the cable is attaced at the top and how you adjust the tension etc. This winter i have messed around with crimps on the end of the cable and also making a lead ball on the end of the cable and put up to 60 lbs of weight on the end connector without breaking to end off. I dont know how much force is needed for the cable to operate the top. I did talk to a motorcyle repair shop and they do clutch and brake cable reapairs and thought he could make a cable. I just dont know how to install and adjust the cable.
This is really a poor design that GM should never allowed out. 100k car and you need to carry a tie wrap with you. Shame on them.
Bill
Note: I have have had my top up/down at least 1,000 times without failure (not exaggerating). I plan to replace it myself as I wait until that time comes when this cable does break.
Note: I have have had my top up/down at least 1,000 times without failure (not exaggerating). I plan to replace it myself as I wait until that time comes when this cable does break.
Its still F'd up, When their pushing the extended warranty Oh it fixs about everthing minus wear items( brakes, tires) But they ALWAYS weasel out of things... :-(
GM Premium Platinum DOES NOT cover it. I just found out today for my 5 year old 2021 C8. I plan on the zip tie method until I figure out a path forward. Dealership repair bill would have been $1229.71
IMPORTANT EDIT: The dealership was the one that told me the repair was not covered, so I called GM Platinum Warranty (800.743.7896) myself, to ask why. The first guy said "it should be covered', so I said I would like to speak to someone with authority that could give me a definitive answer. After providing him with the part numbers of the cable and the cable/bracket, I was told it indeed was covered, and to have the dealer call again.
I relayed this information to my service adviser, and 10 minutes later I received a thumbs up call from him.
IMPORTANT EDIT: The dealership was the one that told me the repair was not covered, so I called GM Platinum Warranty (800.743.7896) myself, to ask why. The first guy said "it should be covered', so I said I would like to speak to someone with authority that could give me a definitive answer. After providing him with the part numbers of the cable and the cable/bracket, I was told it indeed was covered, and to have the dealer call again.
I relayed this information to my service adviser, and 10 minutes later I received a thumbs up call from him.
Its still F'd up, When their pushing the extended warranty Oh it fixs about everthing minus wear items( brakes, tires) But they ALWAYS weasel out of things... :-(
btw. I totally agree, but for those that do not have an extended warranty, the replacement part number and cost is important to not when getting a quite from a dealer.
As you can see from the recent post, that the Platinum Warranty does appear to cover the item. It is also important to remember that certain dealerships can mislead you on this and many other issues.
what's in the box?
