My 2021 HTC cable broke on the passenger side. My GMPP Warranty would not cover it because it was not an "electrical" part or of course a lubricated part.

I Checked with Fidelity Warranty and they said they would not cover it either, should i have had a warranty with them.

I read that one guy got coverage with GM, but not sure how the service writer wrote it up.

 

I'll try to remember what Criswell in gaithersburg says. car is still under new car warranty so I expect it to be repaired.

 

AFTER reading alot about the HTC failures,I kinda was thinking the same thing, in that the cable is to small,& the company that made the cables has a defect putting the ends on the cable.

 

If I have to pay to get mine replaced I'm going to take the broken one and see if I can't set up a slightly larger cable and casing and a better end. Years ago I had a problem with a triumph 650 motorcycle that blew/pulled a cable out of the end piece...I got to my girlfriend's in Texas City (from Texarkana!) using a vice grips and pulling to clutch but shifting without clutch. Anyway, I had to cut ½" off the cable and used her kitchen gas hob to silver solder the cable into the end piece. Put it back together, and there was enough slack in the cable to tighten up/adjust the clutch and it NEVER broke again. I have to wonder if it wasn't my inattention to lubing that end piece in the hand lever....this cable assembly doesn't seem to have any adjustment (just goes loose and the spring flops the bit up when top is down and the cable tightens it when the top needs to go up. ). Or I can file a complaint with NHTSA and argue it's a safety issue when the top won't close or open....

 

 

Part is down to $180 if you google the p/n. Vendor says it's an OEM GM part too!!!!

 

You can't put the top down with the "ear" tied down with a zip tie. The ear will hit the top of the roof.

 

I posted what the service writer submitted a few posts above yours. Basically she said "it broke."

It's not really that the cable is too small, it's that they really cheaped out on how they attach the mechanism to the end of the cable. The cable doesn't break, the fitting on the end of it breaks.

 

Thanks. I won't try to put the top down.

 

That's my take on it. either the button breaks or the cable pulls out of the button. Anyone know? Like I said before re my motorcycle clutch cable episode, silver solder is a lot better than regular solder.

 

The pictures I've seen have shown breaks in the cable right at the end piece. This isn't consistent with an undersized cable failing in tension, they appear to be failing in pretty much the same location, probably due to fatigue. They haven't pulled out of the end piece in the pictures I've seen.

The failures are likely due to loads right at the end piece. The fatigue could be caused by flexing back and forth at the end piece and/or damage to the cable during installation of the end piece.

I've heard it is typical to cast the end piece in place during cable manufacturing. It is possible that the cable has a heat affected zone at the end piece during casting due to poor quality control.

My personal belief is the cable could be repaired if someone could run a new cable through the original housing and attach end pieces without damaging the cable. A bicycle or motorcycle shop may be able to do this.

 

That should work for you. GM has been very good with new car 36 mo, 30K Mi warranty work.

 

I had this happen and repaired it myself. The cable is not breaking, it’s pulling out of the button. I tossed the button in trash and crimped a ferrule stop in its place. No more HTC cable issues. Well until the driver side fails. The only thing I recommend is to cut the ferrule stop (see pic) in half and add a metal washer with the same diameter as the original button. Don’t put to much cable into the stop, only about an 1/8 inch.

 

How critical is the cable length? Is there a spring in there somewhere that allows for some variation in cable length?

 

From what I observed, the cable length affects the “ear” movement. So if it’s too long it won’t fold in all of the way. To short it won’t extend all of the way. I wouldnt go as far to say the length of the cable determines the timing of movement. But it’s clear GM designed it so that there isn’t much room for change in cable length (and that’s a cash cow weak point not covered under warranty). So if the cable broke anywhere other than separating from the button you will have to replace the cable.

 

Thanks, GREAT info. Is that new peice a coupler cable crimp like you'd use for garage door handle calbe?

 

I couldn’t say, I’m not familiar with your garage door handle example. The picture I posted has an item number. You be able to look it up.

 

Only problem I ever had was making a small bight on one end of the cable...I used the left hand bit to make the bight and then the large crimp at Home Depot to clamp it. didn't have to buy the clamp....
LOL...ALL the contractor grade garage door openers, springs (linear, not torsional), lift and spring pulley, door pulleys, and lifting cables have either failed or been replaced/worn out in 22 years since we built the house. Openers from chains to quiet belts (genius). +1/32 on the cables. Those end stops are belt and suspenders to bights/clamps on the cable ends.
My 2024 is still warranty...Criswell Chevy in Gaithersburg had apparently corvette Tuesday...7 in line when I brought mine in to show/tell them what needed to be done (replace the pivot arm) and gave them the p/n. Parts said ten days when I called them but I showed the parts guy a GM OEM source somewhere in the South with two day delivery! No backorder like Parts said so we'll see. Can't put the top down however unless I lun-cable tie the pivot bracket.

 

Look at the part pic somewhere in this thread. The idea if you DIY is NOT to make a loop but to use the end stop. I dunno if DIY shortens the cable too much...If mine was out of warranty I'd try the DIY but check it out/operate it to see that it mimics the other side.

 

Since I have lots of time on my side since i am retired, I have been reading how to put an end stop on wire cables. Most of the You Tube videos show guys putting and end stop on clutch cables or brake cables for motorcycles. Most make a mold out of wood or metal (watch a video)and put solder on the end using the mold they have made and making some kind of ball of solder that would fit in the black box on the C8. I dont know how much weight or strength that is needed for the HTC cable versus the motorcycle application. I am going to make a cable with a solder ball on the end and see how much weight i can put on that ball of solder by pulling on it with a piece of wood going through the cable and being stopped by the ball.
I have put a screw on type ferrule on the wire and it could not take much weight at all. The crimp on ferrule seemed to take a lot of weight before it pulled off but i dont know how much weight/pressure is on the HTC cable and stop. I bought the 1/16 aircraft grade cable , ferrules at Home Depot for about $15 and had to buy a crimper but it can be used for other jobs around the house. The solder end you will need solder, flux and a torch which I already had and will try that test next week. If anyone knows how much weight /pressure the wire stop needs to hold, that would be helpful, It would be interesting to know at what weight pressure the OEM cable stop is failing at. The cable itself appears not to be the weak link in the failure.
Thanks
Bill