When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I dimpled the edge of the hatch lip to provide a little detent to hold the latch in the closed position a little better.
Removed the pan, drilled the corners, cut out with metal blade on the jig saw.
Second time you have mentioned leaving it off. Go ahead and leave it off yours and let us know how it works out. Maybe if you don't drive aggressively or go over any bumps.
It's both structural and there for aerodynamics/ air flow.
I've just baited the field to start some controversy. I've expected a lot more. I'm a mechanical engineer but you don't have to be a rocket scientist to realize that with the gauge of the aluminum and the 30 screws that it's a structural member.
Last edited by Macman3509; Feb 9, 2025 at 03:30 PM.
I dimpled the edge of the hatch lip to provide a little detent to hold the latch in the closed position a little better.
Removed the pan, drilled the corners, cut out with metal blade on the jig saw.
Removed the pan, drilled the corners, cut out with metal blade on the jig saw.
I've been waiting for the temps to warm up a bit as my garage isn't heated... but this is my next winter task on the car.
Assuming the light blue line I drew in (was your top black line) is an extension of the other opening and is the edge of the cutout for this door (I have this door on hand as well), then what was X (to the cut line for this door)?
Latch will stay closed better if you release tab holding nut on the latch and tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn
Yep, I did this when I took the whole assembly apart and rotated the brass portion 90*. It drove me crazy that the slot didn't align with the function. When it was closed the line was parallel and when it was open it was perpendicular. I had to fix that!
I’m starting my install. I had the car up on the quick jack last weekend so I marked up the plate and drilled the corners of the new hole. I’ll finish the job this weekend, waiting on a new rivet gun.
I’m starting my install. I had the car up on the quick jack last weekend so I marked up the plate and drilled the corners of the new hole. I’ll finish the job this weekend, waiting on a new rivet gun.
looks good to me. Eye, ear, and respiratory protection will be needed if you plan to cut laying under the car.
looks good to me. Eye, ear, and respiratory protection will be needed if you plan to cut laying under the car.
I haven't decided if I'm going with the oscillating saw under the car or the take it off and use a jig saw. I'm also checking clearance to see if a short Jigsaw blade can be used while under the car. I see most opted for removing the cover to do the work but I'm feeling a little adventurous.
I haven't decided if I'm going with the oscillating saw under the car or the take it off and use a jig saw. I'm also checking clearance to see if a short Jigsaw blade can be used while under the car. I see most opted for removing the cover to do the work but I'm feeling a little adventurous.
In the tightest spots you have about 3/4 inch to the bottom of the trans. Oscillating tool was best for me. I tried the dremel cut off wheel it was too slow. Jig saw will be too tight with the plate still on the car.
I haven't decided if I'm going with the oscillating saw under the car or the take it off and use a jig saw. I'm also checking clearance to see if a short Jigsaw blade can be used while under the car. I see most opted for removing the cover to do the work but I'm feeling a little adventurous.
Take the 10 minutes to get it off the car and use a jig saw.