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it works fantastic. I have a roughly 8x5 tanks inc door and it makes filter changes, and fluid draining very easy. No spills, just enough room to wiggle that filter cover off. Fluid seen on door was what splashed on my hands when the drain plug was pulled. Easy spray and wipe with degreaser.
Hi, can you explain how you put the tire over a brick for me? That is a hell of an idea. Thank you so much in advance.
Thank you so much C8 mate. So do you have to raise both rear sides,
1. or can I just raise it on 1 side, place the Crib under and raise the other side and place the other Crib under.
2. also I intend to raise the rear only.
Do you think that what I would want to do is possible? Both 1 and 2?
Thank you so much C8 mate. So do you have to raise both rear sides,
1. or can I just raise it on 1 side, place the Crib under and raise the other side and place the other Crib under.
2. also I intend to raise the rear only.
Do you think that what I would want to do is possible? Both 1 and 2?
Thanks so much.
1. I'm not the expert on the frames engineering, but it is my understanding that you no not want to left one side at a time. Front to back is okay, but side to side puts too much stress on something critical.
2. Raising just the rear is fine, but it’s a little tight under there.
If you don’t want to buy 4 cribs, YouTube wheel cribs. There are some great tutorials to DIY them out of 2X4 pieces of lumber.
1. I'm not the expert on the frames engineering, but it is my understanding that you no not want to left one side at a time. Front to back is okay, but side to side puts too much stress on something critical.
2. Raising just the rear is fine, but it’s a little tight under there.
If you don’t want to buy 4 cribs, YouTube wheel cribs. There are some great tutorials to DIY them out of 2X4 pieces of lumber.
if jacking up just one tire was an issue you wouldn’t be able to drive or track this car. No issue with jacking up just one tire at a time.
I suggest a set of quick jacks or something similar if you plan on doing work under your c8.
if jacking up just one tire was an issue you wouldn’t be able to drive or track this car. No issue with jacking up just one tire at a time.
I suggest a set of quick jacks or something similar if you plan on doing work under your c8.
I’m sure it’s no issue for swapping tires, or high G loaded turns, but lifting one corner 13-14 inches off the ground to get cribs under the tire? If it’s no problem, why are there so many warnings against the side fill technique for track filling the DCT?
I’m sure it’s no issue for swapping tires, or high G loaded turns, but lifting one corner 13-14 inches off the ground to get cribs under the tire? If it’s no problem, why are there so many warnings against the side fill technique for track filling the DCT?
I've experienced no issues jacking the car from the back to get the track fill in. I put a second jack under the front lift point just to provide some support. I don't know what warnings you are referring to and by whom. If one feels that there is a concern, go through the top.
I’m sure it’s no issue for swapping tires, or high G loaded turns, but lifting one corner 13-14 inches off the ground to get cribs under the tire? If it’s no problem, why are there so many warnings against the side fill technique for track filling the DCT?
The only warnings have seen are from forum posters pointing potential safety issues with way the car is being lifted or supported while working under the car. And also, the side tilt method makes it difficult to determine exactly what fill level was achieved. Proper way is to fill it level to the side fill plug when it is level, then add the two liters if a track fill is desired.
Try and find any official statement from GM that says you can't lift one side of the car - to change a tire for example.
The only warnings have seen are from forum posters pointing potential safety issues with way the car is being lifted or supported while working under the car. And also, the side tilt method makes it difficult to determine exactly what fill level was achieved. Proper way is to fill it level to the side fill plug when it is level, then add the two liters if a track fill is desired.
Try and find any official statement from GM that says you can't lift one side of the car - to change a tire for example.
perhaps it was only a safety warning. It’s been a while since I researched this topic. But when I did I remember reading various warnings(or maybe hearing in Joe Schmo garage mechanic YouTube videos) that the top fill method was best, and there was too much stress on something in the composite when the car was tilted 16 or whatever degrees to 2 tires. It made sense, even with how rigid the car is and isn’t difficult to just list the whole rear together. I’ve done 3 drain and fills through the top, and 6 filters lifting the car up half at a time. While doing this on the way up one corner is often an inch higher than the other (as it would be for tire swaps)
I wish I had time to find a source on this, when I saw it it seemed common knowledge.
I am tryng to get the directions on how to do this mod. even the video is not that clear on the dementions and where to make the cut can some on send me the info email address:louannandallan@yahoo.com
Thanks Allan
I am tryng to get the directions on how to do this mod. even the video is not that clear on the dementions and where to make the cut can some on send me the info email address:louannandallan@yahoo.com
Thanks Allan
Guessing you haven't actually read through this thread then.
I am tryng to get the directions on how to do this mod. even the video is not that clear on the dementions and where to make the cut can some on send me the info email address:louannandallan@yahoo.com
Thanks Allan
I just did the mod on my 2021 using the Tanks AD-45 Access Panel yesterday.
As video explained remove the fastener closest to oil filter opening (OFO) to mark a straight line from fastener threaded location- Important ( Look closely at video/photos in this thread the access panel hinge placement when marking this line from fastener thread location -
Next from center of OFO using a tape measure
mark 2 1/2” from this opening- I used the access panel using OFO line & 2 1/2” line mark than marked the outside and inside lines of the panel.
The INSIDE hatch line is your cut line - I used a 1/4 “ drill bit to round out the 4 inside corners - than cut the straight lines to the previous drilled openings.
Note I had to adjust the latch to fit over the shear plate and access hatch when closing the lock. Discovered this after reinstalling the shear plate laying on my back - Easier to do adjustment when shear plate is off the car!
Also cut a strip of Gorilla tape as a “peace of mind security latch” and applied it to the opening opposite the door hinge .
The door frame is made of stainless steel and is very ridged and has 8 rivets.
The frame has the same problem as the modified plate it's riveted to: It has a big gaping hole in it. The amount of stiffness recovered by the frame can't possibly be 70%, unless the door itself is wedged in the opening and transferring loads. The discontinuity of that big gaping hole is what makes it less rigid.
Originally Posted by Andybump
Is there any evidence from GM that the plate being discussed is structural.
I'll probably cut the hole out when I do the first filter change for ease of service in the future.
40 bolts in and out one time sounds good to me. I'm sure it adds some stiffness that I will never miss.
I don't track it so I'll just keep the speed below 100 on the interstate entrance/exit ramps!
IMO the door install is a waste of time and $ and adds no stiffness so I'll just cut the hole with rounded corners and be done.
If GM was to notify doing this was invalidating the warranty I'll just buy a new plate.
