all of this is covered in the FAQ, scroll up a few posts and there is a specific link discussing what you are trying to do, honestly if u cant figure out the wiring just get the pacaoemvet1 adapter its plug and play, also this isnt the place to ask questions start a thread

 

In my car (2004 Z06) fuse 22 only supplies power when the iginition switch is in the "Run" position. It does NOT supply power when the key is in the "ACC" position, which ruled out the possibility of using fuse 22 for me.

After much digging around in the passenger side footwell for this connector (and digging around on the forum) I discovered that it DOES NOT EXIST in 2004 year model cars (and possibly 2003?). So I was left looking for other sources for +12v switched acc power...

I saw jawzforlife's post and verified that the brown wire coming from the ignition switched IS in fact the right signal. However, I was hesitant to tap into this wire so I looked for another source. Here's what I came up with:

Look for a small bundle of wires under the steering column (you have to remove the interior panel that covers it first) - the colors should be grey, purple, pink, sea-green, and yellow. The yellow wire is switched +12v power:




I used a scotchlock connector to tap into it:



This wire will provide +12v power when the ignition is in the "ACC" and "RUN" positions.

Hopefully this will save some people time, as I spent hours trying to get all of this sorted.

- Mark

 

nice stuff :-D

 

i think i'm going to need this info shortly.

 

Oh boy!!! Is this going to cost me more money???

Tim

 

** EDIT **: I know the drawing sucks, but I did it last night while watching TV. As pentavolvo says, the black wires aren't used in this setup. The pic isn't hard to read after looking at the quote below.

 

thank you this is awesome for those who dont understand this is to retain oem subs in doors, the blacks are not used if you couldnt tell

 

Possibly an over site on my part, but I had to swap the tan/black and the light green/black to get the left and right channels into the correct position. Also I hooked up the front tweeters to the head unit out for the front channels and also in to the Sven2.

I found a key on 12v hot wire behind the ac heat control unit, it is the brown wire , and tapped into that. Everything else was color to color on the harness that I had. Thanks for all the input, sounds and works great so far!

 

Small note after about a week.

I noticed a small squeak behind the head unit, so I have to pull it apart again or it will drive me insane. I think it might be the SVEN2 rattling around.

So make sure everything is rattle and squeak free before putting it all back together when you swap your HU.

 

where do you get the bose adapter kit for a pioneer avic dv3. Can you direct me to a web sight? thank you for your time.

 

If you're planning on keeping the Bose amps and speakers you need an ROEM-Vet1, currently on sale here

 

Specific to installing an aftermarket subwoofer and amplifier to a stock Bose head unit in a 2003 Z06, does anyone have a specific make and model of an adapter that will take the low frequency signal output from the Bose head unit and increase it enough to hook up a “speaker wire to RCA jack” converter or a piece that goes straight into a RCA jack. End result, how do I hook up an aftermarket 500Watt amplifier to the stock Bose head unit. Thanks for the help!

Thread:Adding an amplifier
To add a subwoofer or to give your aftermarket speakers more power you will need an aftermarket amplifier. Please note you will not be able to power the stock bose speakers with an aftermarket amplifier. If you are keeping the stock head unit you will need a bose interface (please note: When tapping into the stock wiring, the low frequencies for bass ARE NOT present at the twiddlers. The 8" sub in the doors or behind the h/u must be tapped when adding a sub). A popular model for the c5's are the 'soundgate' adapters or pac-audio interfaces. This will allow you to retain the stock headunit and all of the stock features associated with the head unit such as retained accessory power and automatic volume compensation even the stock speakers if you only wish to only add a subwoofer. The bose interface will give you pre-amp level outputs that you can run to the rca jacks of your amplifier.

 

An AOEM-Vet1 will give you full signal pre-amp outputs that you can do whatever you want to with. If you're looking for a speaker level bass signal, your only choice is to leave the door subs/amps installed and tap into the signal at the spades on the big speakers. I suppose you could remove the 8" speakers and just use the speaker level signal to supply your new sub, but why...

Just FYI, check out post #9 to see how you could maintain RAP with your aftermarket amp.

And BTW, in the future, for specific questions you may want to start a new thread instead of posting in the FAQ.

 

C5 Factory HU & some upgraded toys...
Good evening all! I'm a newbie to the forum.You have been very informative throughout many threads that I've disovered and I'd like your thoughts on the following:

I've read the thread on C6 and cleansweep but my questions are...

1)Do I need a cleansweep for a 99' C5 under the following setup?
-Factory Bose HU in 99' vert/
keeping CD changer in trunk/new 4 channel amp/new component speakers/stealthsub/remote for sub/JL cleansweep?

2)Also your comments and/or suggestions/advice on the following components or others you could reccomend

-Front speakers: Focal 165vr or 165v1

- 4 Ch-amp: Kenwood KZCX4R (digital) or JL 300/4

- Rear speakers: running off HU or disconnect?

-Sub: 8/10/12inch

Thanks

 

I just finished and thought I'd post up some of my ideas and issues I ran into. First of all, here is the finished product. I love the look.



I used Focal components in the front and developed the lazy man's way to install them. First I removed all the Bose speakers and brackets and then I stripped off all the Bose stuff from the brackets. I then made adapters out of thin plywood to adapt the Focals to the brackets.



Then I was looking for a place to install the crossovers and found that there is enough depth in the door to mount them on the back of the brackets. This made the wiring a snap. I mounted the tweeters on the top of the windshield against the a-piller. They virtually disappear in this location because of the dark glass.



I also spent some time thinking how to install the H/U in the dash. I kept looking at the old Bose unit and thought why not copy that design. So I fabed up these little brackets. It was very fussy getting the fit perfect, but they work great. They mount using the stock mounting holes in the dash.





I installed Focal composits in the rear and used the Bose wiring to connect them. They work fine. I still have a small fitment issue with the one on the driver's side. The magnet in the Focals is much larger than the Bose, and it hits the plastic that shrowds the gas tank filler pipe. I am going to make a spacer that will look similar to the ones in the front that will give the clearance I need.

I installed the I-Pod in the back of the consol. Since my Kenwood does not have a USB on the front, I connected a short USB extension that I hide tucked in the console at the passenger's footwell. I then connected the Ipod adaptor to that and routed it to the consule. With this setup, I can disconnect the Ipod easily and use the USB port for updates etc. I set the Ipod on a piece of foam to reduce any heat transfer from the tunnel area.



I mounted the GPS antenna on the dash at the base of the a-piller on the passenger's side.

The most significant issue I ran into was the constant 12 V supply. At first, I found the Bose supply in the harness and tapped into that. The unit would not power up. After much time checking everything, I concluded that the H/U was defective. I took it back to the dealer and he bench tested it and found it to be OK. I then did voltage tests and found that the constant supply (from Bose harness) was 1.5 V less than the switched supply. I then took my constant supply direct from the battery and it powered up. I installed an in-line fuse with this supply. I have no idea why the original setup didn't work, but don't really care now.

I also installed the Kenwood Bluetooth unit and had a difficult time getting the H/U to recognize it. I couldn't find proper installation instructions and finally posted on here to see if anyone else had an answer. While I was doing that my wife found the installation instructions in the back of the manual. Go figure. Anyway, there are dip switches that have to be set to match the H/U.

I hope this helps any of you that want to do a similar install.

I wish to thank Dennis C5BearsFan for the great bezel. You will notice that it retains the ashtray which I didn't want to lose. Also, I'd like to thank the member's of this Forum for all the help and support that I got.

Dave

 

that looks great! I think you can't use the stock bose power supply anyway, if memory serves you lose that when you go aftermarket. that's why GM left that accessory power connector above the BCM. you also lose RAP, but there are ways of restoring it.

nice work! clean that interior!

 

Looks good Krusin

You may not have a problem up in Canada, but if you plan on taking any long trips in the summer you may want to put the ipod in the glove box. Many MP3 players have prematurely met their makers due to the heat in the center console, and 6-speed C5's seem to be the worst.

 

Thanks for the tip. I never thought of that and I'll keep an eye on it. I will set it on a piece of foam so it does'nt get the direct heat. I didn't want to use the glove box because it isn't as nice of an install.

As for the interior, 5 minutes before the pic, it was full of tools and parts. Hopefully tomorrow will be nice enough to give it the Spring cleanup.

 

I'm auditioning the Focals...

1) How do they sound? Is there a overwhelming SQ difference vs factory in your configuration.

2)Are the Focals "apparent" in the rear. (I'm debating rears. May just use oem for fill) Your experience on this?

3) Focals sound good in the showroom but what about with the top down?

4) Any comments would be helpful

 

I'm not an audiofile, but in my humble opinion anything would sound better than the Bose and the Focals sound very nice. I'm sure there are lots of others that sound very good as well. I did not install a sub or amp, and I am quit satisfied with the result. With this system, I can crank to full volume without any distortion, so yes, I can hear them with the top off. As for the rears, that is personal taste. I had them turned off for a while (by mistake) and when I turned them back on, I liked the sound better.