Not exactly, the crossovers come with the component speakers and are only for that set of speakers and are specifically designed for those speakers. So, RCA's from the head unit to amp. From the amp, you run speaker wires for the front channels to the crossovers and then from the crossovers to the speakers. For the subwoofer, you run speaker wires to the sub and that's it. You make any adjustments for the subwoofer through the head unit or the adjustment ***** on the amp.

In my case, I ran 3 sets of RCA cable from my head unit to my amp. 1 set for front channel (or front speakers), 1 set for rear channel (rear speakers), and 1 set for the sub.

edit: also didn't mean to imply you couldn't afford it, i was simply speaking about budget or what you are willing to spend for said project. lol

 

On the rear speaker discussion, I respectfully disagree with Torch. I think that the more speakers you run (especially amplified) matter. The stock setup sucks at best. If you can add an amplified set of 5.25s that are quality, you can manipulate your sound stage for the better. 2 speakers is motorcycle territory. We're in a car. Yes, 4 speakers IS better than 2. I can manipulate the soundstage with 4 speakers...I can't with 2. Add a sub and we're in an entirely different ball game. To put it simply, the highest end audio systems use the MOST possible speakers, subs, etc. To eliminate speakers is eliminating quality. Period.

 

 

As far as recommendations, JL makes some good amps and subs. They can be a bit pricey though. For a sub, I would definitely go with the best JL sub you can fit into your box.

Speakers can be tricky depending on tastes.
As far as speakers, many guys were highly recommending the Morel Hybrid series speakers as a lot of speaker for the price. I have the 5.25" Hybrids in the rear and they do sound good. I never heard the 6.5" components but they were being highly recommended on the forum by some of the more knowledgable forum members.

Also I am running a Morel 5 channel amp which I have been happy with but it is a little large as far as size goes.

 

If you run 5.25" speakers in the rear, they may or may not have separate crossovers. Depends on the speakers. My Morel Hybrids had separate crossovers that I installed in the rear cubby. If you check my thread you can see a picture of them installed in the cubby.

And yes, if you go with rear speakers you will need a 5 channel amp. 2 channel for the front speakers, 2 for the rear, and 1 channel for the sub.

 

So I have a 5 channel in my truck. It sounds awesome. Audio only sounds crappy when you ask things to do what they're not designed to do. For instance, asking a 300/4 channel amp to drive a JL 13W7 that needs a 1000 RMS output. Absolutely absurd to think it could...or make it try. The 5 channel I have is the XD series JL 700/5.(http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_1...Amplifier.html) I run two shallows 10's and 4 speakers (2 fronts w/ external x-overs and 2 rears) with this and it sounds awesome. However, it's not an all out kick your nuts system. It sounds clean and precise which is what I wanted. A single 5 channel with decent capabilities will drive just about anything needed by a nominal effort system...which seems like what you're after.

 

 

No I did end up selling that amp to another forum member. As far as which amp to recommend, I always feel a little uncomfortable making recommendations because there is a lot I haven't heard and sound is a little subjective and not everyone hears the same things. That being said, I do feel like JL Audio puts out some quality mid level amps and that you can't go wrong with them or for the most part their products as a whole.

Shopping around gives you many different prices, so I suggest checking multiple web sites. For instance, the JL xd700/5v2 that Ronin suggested is $520 on Amazon right now, compared to $630 on another popular Audio site. Also the older xd700/5 is $450 on Amazon. There are also other 5 channel JL amps you can check out also if you check the JL site or even Crutchfield.com.

 

 

Ronin, I actually agree with you for the most part. The only issues I have is with problems that may arise for a novice installer and/or if some even notice a difference. Properly adjusting the time alignment becomes a problem for some and also getting quality speakers that don't introduce any negative sounds is important but commonly overlooked. The other issue with the C6 is that the rear speaker location is extremely poorly designed for sound. The rear speakers are not in any kind of enclosure and if you don't compensate for the locations short comings, you lose much of the benefit of putting a quality speaker in that location and then it brings up the argument as to whether it is worth it or not.

That being said, I do run rear speakers and prefer it that way. But I did add a lot of sound deadening around the rear speaker location to try and close off the area and air from the front and back of the speaker as much as possible to reduce sound canceling. But for some contemplating budget restraints and their limited knowledge and experience, I do believe that many are better off using their entire speaker budget on upgrading to some really good front speakers instead of an alternative to getting mediocre speakers all around. Sending the right amount of power to a high quality 6.5" component along with a good sub, can give you some surprisingly good results, even if some of us still prefer rear speakers.

 

There is a lot, lol. There are different classes of amps. Like a/b is suppose to sound better than d class. But depending on brand and quality that is not always true. There is also the power rating of the amps, which can also be misleading. You want to look at the RMS values @ ohms and compare apples to apples to see how much power the amp really has and not look at the advertised marketed numbers. Then there is size, sound quality, brand, reliability, etc, etc.. Some of these things you will get different opinions based on who you ask, that's why I say sound is subjective because some people notice sounds that others don't.

 

 

Without confusing you too much, all speakers have an ohm rating. Basically it is electrical resistance and it effects the output of an amp. So when you compare power output of an amp, you want to make sure you are looking at watt rating tested at the same ohm rating so you can compare apples to apples. For example, an amp could be rated at 500 watts @ 1 ohm, 300 watts @ 2 ohms, and then 150 watts at 4 ohms. Cheaper amps will advertise themselves as a 500 watt amp even though @ 1 ohm doesn't apply to most applications. Most speakers are either 4 or 2 ohm. So you want to make sure you compare power ratings at the same ohm resistance to get an accurate comparison and to not be mislead.

 

 

I'll take this one. Try not to think of resistance as "better" or "worse." Think of it more as "applicable to my intended usage." For instance, subwoofers. You can get a JL10TW1-V3 ( a shallow 10) in 2 ohm, 4, ohm, 8 ohm, etc. It's the same sub and will perform the same when given the power it's needed. You just have to choose the speakers based of the amp(s) that you're running to ensure the right amount of power delivery at the correct ohm load.

Further example. Say you get 2 x 2 ohm subs. You amplifier's rated output is 400W RMS at 2 ohms. That amp will work great providing 200W RMS to each sub. Here's where the installer has to know what they're doing though. If the installer wires the subs in series, they will now be operating at 1 ohm which is not ideal, and they'll sound crappy (not deliver intended sound). But if the installer installs 2 x 4 ohm subs in series, they're now operating a 2 ohms and will work perfectly. Clear as mud? The ohm load is there to help aid installers with options and flexibility with multichannel power management. Not really much more.

 

 

I used focal speakers for my upgrade...they sound fantastic...i also used a aftermarket amplifier from arc audio...this tucks in to where the stock amplifier goes...it is a ks125x4 ...this will give you plenty of power...i removed the stock amplifier and used the oem amplifier mounting plate and attached that to the arc audio unit...i ran 4 guage wire from my battery in the rear along side the inside rocker panel to the front where the amp is. I also used 90 degree rca cable jacks for the speaker plug ins...as far as the remote goes for the amp...i used the blue wire from the harness and ran a seperate blue wire to the amp for the remote...this sends a voltage signal to the amp and turns the amplifier power off and on...this wire is a fairly thin guage wire. If you disconnect the OEM amp...remember that the chime will longer work...as far as the speaker wire ...i ran new wire form the front and the rear...torchred is right...about the front speaker wires...the coat hanger is a miracle...as far as the SPEAKER plates are concerned...i ordered mine from ebay...that was the best price....i would suggest taking the passenger seat out to install the amplifier...but if you are a acrobat...you will be ok...it is tight with the seat to install the amp...my head unit is a pioneer 4200 nex...i also installed a twin usb port where the lighter was in my ashtray...it fits perfect in the hole...i also installed a backup camera to the head unit...ran the power wire from the reverse light in the back to the power for the camera...ran the video wire for that along the tunnel (as along as the seat was out) to the head unit...I ordered the speaker wire from amazon...the 4 gauge wire I got from amazon as well....you can get a amplifier install kit...but make sure you have plenty of large gauge wire...I measured from the rear to the front and added a couple extra feet for good measure...whoops...as far as the ground cable goes for the amp...I used the same gauge wire and ran it from the b pillar to the front along with the positive cable....one thing to remember is to have your fuse in the battery compartment...close to the positive battery terminal....you should also thank pb82...great education on ohm ratings...I wish I had that when I was figuring my sound design out....when I finally got everything together...I flat lined my equalizer and the tweaked my speakers using the adjustments on the amplifier first before I tweaked the equalizer in the head unit...I would suggest that if you get new front speakers that you also install rears as well...what do you want...chicken poop or chicken salad...I prefer chicken salad...so do it right the first time....one other suggestion...get your self some sound deadener for the inside of your doors. and some aluminum channel to mount on the inside of your doors behind the subwoofers

 

Focals are amazing. If I could ever afford the Utopias, I'd get them in a heartbeat. I unfortunately have to "settle" for the K2's which are still incredible (and rated #3 of10 in the best "high end speaker" category). They are the best sounding speaker I've ever owned. I'm actually about to do my build on my ZO6. I will do a complete documentation and build thread to share the info with the community. I'm excited, and nervous at the same time because I'm trying a completely new speaker for my combo. If they suck, I can always just sell them (or swap them for my K2P's in my truck)...but I hope they don't.

And hey smokey, do you have a part number for the speaker plates you're running?

 

This is my setup. C6 audio system would be pretty much the same as a C5. I would definitely do a 5 Channel Amp. So much better running one amp. I know everyone has there own opinions on what speakers sound the best. And everyone hears thing differently. At the time I had my system done I was going all Rockford Fosgate. But there whole new line thing we’re on back order with my installer. I did not want to put my install off. I had to go a different amp. But he told me it would not be hard to change out if I wanted to when it came available. So I went with the Kenwood 900 5 channel amp. Also I have Kenwood headunit and all Rockford Speakers. If you look at the price on my T3 Components they are a little pricey but my sound system sound awesome. There was no need to change my amp out. It is under my passenger set. Very thin amp. I hope this gives someone info on which way to go.