c6 speaker decision
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 144
Likes: 15
From: Austin Texas
c6 speaker decision
i have been reading many posts about what people used and havent really made a decision on what i would like to install.
Does it sound better to get 6.5 components for the lower, put the tweeter up on the a pillar, and install a new upper with a 3.5" speaker? Or just put the tweeter in the 3.5" spot using some sort of adapter and the 6.5 in the door sub spot? I am looking to spend somewhere between $200 to $300.
Does it sound better to get 6.5 components for the lower, put the tweeter up on the a pillar, and install a new upper with a 3.5" speaker? Or just put the tweeter in the 3.5" spot using some sort of adapter and the 6.5 in the door sub spot? I am looking to spend somewhere between $200 to $300.
Last edited by Fighta; Jan 14, 2020 at 02:09 AM.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 745
Likes: 136
From: Detroit MI
It will be personal preference on whether you prefer the high door or dash tweeter location. The dash location will be "brighter" and have more reflections (diffraction, really) coloring the image. I run a set of large format tweeters in my upper door positions and get fantastic imaging as a result.
Either way, I'd skip the 3.5" altogether and run a good quality 6.5" midrange on a solid adapter in the door. Powering them from something other than the factory Bose crap is key too. Even head unit power from an aftermarket radio is better than the over EQ'd and under powered Bose amp. Better yet, put them on a clean external amplifier fed by pre-outs from a decent head unit.
Make sure your mounting adapter is RIGID and sealed to the door as much as possible to get best results. I actually have the back sides of mine sealed around the midrange too, but many people just seal the whole door cavity (there's a giant hole further back on the door panel). My setup puts the mid in a smaller enclosure volume vs using the whole door cavity, but both can work fine.
Either way, I'd skip the 3.5" altogether and run a good quality 6.5" midrange on a solid adapter in the door. Powering them from something other than the factory Bose crap is key too. Even head unit power from an aftermarket radio is better than the over EQ'd and under powered Bose amp. Better yet, put them on a clean external amplifier fed by pre-outs from a decent head unit.
Make sure your mounting adapter is RIGID and sealed to the door as much as possible to get best results. I actually have the back sides of mine sealed around the midrange too, but many people just seal the whole door cavity (there's a giant hole further back on the door panel). My setup puts the mid in a smaller enclosure volume vs using the whole door cavity, but both can work fine.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 144
Likes: 15
From: Austin Texas
It will be personal preference on whether you prefer the high door or dash tweeter location. The dash location will be "brighter" and have more reflections (diffraction, really) coloring the image. I run a set of large format tweeters in my upper door positions and get fantastic imaging as a result.
Either way, I'd skip the 3.5" altogether and run a good quality 6.5" midrange on a solid adapter in the door. Powering them from something other than the factory Bose crap is key too. Even head unit power from an aftermarket radio is better than the over EQ'd and under powered Bose amp. Better yet, put them on a clean external amplifier fed by pre-outs from a decent head unit.
Make sure your mounting adapter is RIGID and sealed to the door as much as possible to get best results. I actually have the back sides of mine sealed around the midrange too, but many people just seal the whole door cavity (there's a giant hole further back on the door panel). My setup puts the mid in a smaller enclosure volume vs using the whole door cavity, but both can work fine.
Either way, I'd skip the 3.5" altogether and run a good quality 6.5" midrange on a solid adapter in the door. Powering them from something other than the factory Bose crap is key too. Even head unit power from an aftermarket radio is better than the over EQ'd and under powered Bose amp. Better yet, put them on a clean external amplifier fed by pre-outs from a decent head unit.
Make sure your mounting adapter is RIGID and sealed to the door as much as possible to get best results. I actually have the back sides of mine sealed around the midrange too, but many people just seal the whole door cavity (there's a giant hole further back on the door panel). My setup puts the mid in a smaller enclosure volume vs using the whole door cavity, but both can work fine.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 144
Likes: 15
From: Austin Texas
I think im leaning more towards the tweeters in the upper door and 6.5 in my lowers. Got the dynmat ready though! I guess my next question would be what metra adapter works in the door panel for c6? Will it be specific to car ?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 6,139
Likes: 1,962
From: Morris County New Jersey
Metra 82-3014 speaker plate adapters for the lower door to hold the 6.5" speaker. And Metra 82-3015 speaker plate for the upper 3.5" speaker location. You will need to cut a hole to hold the tweeter.
Edit: You can get both from Amazon. Also ignore the description where it says C7 2013 for the tweeter adapter.
Last edited by TorchRedFred; Jan 14, 2020 at 10:11 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 144
Likes: 15
From: Austin Texas
Metra 82-3014 speaker plate adapters for the lower door to hold the 6.5" speaker. And Metra 82-3015 speaker plate for the upper 3.5" speaker location. You will need to cut a hole to hold the tweeter.
Edit: You can get both from Amazon. Also ignore the description where it says C7 2013 for the tweeter adapter.
Edit: You can get both from Amazon. Also ignore the description where it says C7 2013 for the tweeter adapter.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 144
Likes: 15
From: Austin Texas
If I would have used a 6.5", I would have ordered these
For my speakers its between
Focal RSE-165 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091RSE...65.html?tp=106
Pioneer TS-Z65C https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSZ...5C.html?tp=106
JL Audio C2650 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C26...50.html?tp=106
orMemphis Audio 15-MCX60C https://www.crutchfield.com/p_95315M...0C.html?tp=106
All have great reviews but its been a LONG time since i have purchased speakers and best buy by my house does not carry any of these so that i could listen to them.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 14,062
Likes: 602
From: Henderson Nv-Rohnert Park/Sonoma C o. ca/born in NY Rockaway Beach.
This is what I used and very happy.
Full JL Audio Stereo speakers amp and sud.
XD700/5 10W/V3 C2-650 C2-525 C2-350
JL Stealth Enclosure
Full JL Audio Stereo speakers amp and sud.
XD700/5 10W/V3 C2-650 C2-525 C2-350
JL Stealth Enclosure
Those are nice! Thanks Vince!
For my speakers its between
All have great reviews but its been a LONG time since i have purchased speakers and best buy by my house does not carry any of these so that i could listen to them.
For my speakers its between
Focal RSE-165 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091RSE...65.html?tp=106
Pioneer TS-Z65C https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSZ...5C.html?tp=106
JL Audio C2650 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C26...50.html?tp=106
orMemphis Audio 15-MCX60C https://www.crutchfield.com/p_95315M...0C.html?tp=106
All have great reviews but its been a LONG time since i have purchased speakers and best buy by my house does not carry any of these so that i could listen to them.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,461
Likes: 326
From: Houston TX
You cannot do this on a C6 from what I understand. Otherwise, which 10" woofer do you have that fits in the door?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 9,366
Likes: 969
From: Out back
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 6,139
Likes: 1,962
From: Morris County New Jersey
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,847
Likes: 439
From: Spring Texas
here is my install, not very detailed, but you'll see.. C6 Build
Link to speakers on sonicelectronics: MBQuart
You can also use PIONEER TS-SW2502S4 without having to make a trim ring. This was done on a C7, but it's the same size as the C6: C7 Build
Last edited by VinceC5; Jan 20, 2020 at 01:01 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 9,366
Likes: 969
From: Out back
Apologies. The sheet metal is too thin to support a sub, it'll vibrate and rattle all to hell. I know for a fact because I could make my 6.5" vibrate the sheet metal at the right frequency and power level. Also, the largest I'd run is an 8" driver (but NOT a sub) in a reinforced adapter if it was mid-bass I was chasing.