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More progress, but no pics. If I get a chance of daylight tomorrow, I'll snap a few.
- installed the driver seat on a HardbarUSA base
- installed and adjusted harnesses for the lower seating position
- completed the rollbar padding
- installed a 12V heater fan for defrost
- rewebbed the driver net for the umpteenth time, finally somewhat happy with it
- sealed holes in rear tub around cage downbars
- rear rotors changed (taught my wife how to do a rotor swap)
- rear brake pads changed
- R6s installed for school, no need in burning up A6s
- changed oil and filter
- flushed clutch fluid (big thanks to my youngest daughter for pumping the pedal 200 times)
- washed exterior
- washed and detailed engine bay (my once a year task)
- applied PTA and R (rookie) stickers
- painted an old license plate orange, will install tomorrow
The car is headed to PCMforLess this week for an oil cooler mockup. And then to David Farmer for another corner balance and to change the tranny and diff fluids.
I hope you are not running the stock Z06 Titanium mufflers after wrapping all that piping. Very bad idea. I tried that and blew out one of the Ti mufflers and melted the rear clip and wiring harness. The Ti mufflers don't like to get that hot.
I've been racing my car for almost 2 years now running the oem Ti mufflers with the mid-pipes wrapped. The tips turn pretty colors and no issues.
Wrapping the mid-pipe allows the the clutch to stay cooler and work better and keeps the high trans-temp warning off longer... poor man's trans cooler.
Kevin & others... I just cut the passenger-side/rear wiring out of the car at the foot-well; no issues. First, I removed the b-pillar ground that gave Val's car trouble and verified that the car would start fine. Then I cut it all out and taped the ends of each wire and then taped them all back together.
I guess I should be doing something to my car since everyone else is going hog wild. Maybe I'll do this. At least it'll be cheap (if it works).
Like I told you at Road Atlanta... you need these tips for your custom exhaust
Too late. I've already installed the flame thrower exhaust. I had to wait until the '12 rulers were released and luckily there is still nothing in there preventing them.
I hope you are not running the stock Z06 Titanium mufflers after wrapping all that piping. Very bad idea. I tried that and blew out one of the Ti mufflers and melted the rear clip and wiring harness. The Ti mufflers don't like to get that hot.
Graham,
Do you have pictures of when this happened to you? I have heard this rumor once before, but I am unable to find any proof.
And yes, I am still running the stock exhaust. It's all about the points system on our cars.
Again... never an issue with mine and I'd say the failures shown in the thread above are the exception and not the rule given how many of us race with them.
- some blocks of aluminum to act as spacers (obviously switch to stainless if adapting this to a hotter area of the exhaust)
- some sheet aluminum (I think AL flashing would work too)
- some stainless worm clamps.
cut the sheet shape, put the spacer on the exhaust, lay the sheet on top and then tighten the clamps. If you want to get fancy, put headshield on the alum sheet and or get fancy with a slit in the spacer for the clamp and a screw to hold the sheet aluminum in place.
You are only really concerned with some areas around the diff, so this won't take too long.
Kevin, can you post pics/details of the 12V heater fan setup?
Thanks.
Originally Posted by drivinhard
Pilot Truck Stop special
Ding, Ding, we have a winner!!!
After I saw Jason's heater setup at Nationals using a Truck Stop special, I mentioned it to my father in-law a couple of weeks later. The story goes that he stopped at every truck stop between Charlotte and St. Louis until he found one for me. It was supposed to have been my Christmas present for the race car conversion.
I retained one of the cigarette lighters in my wiring, zip tied it to my center brackets, and then zip tied the trucker heater unit in between the bracket for the ignition key and the center metal stand with my switches. Jason had his mounted on top of his instrument panel, but I could not figure out how he did it.
My car is at PCMforLess for an oil cooler for the next couple of weeks, so I am unable to take pics. Maybe Jason will post up his.
Thanks Guys, I got a PDF file from the bar maker and it shows the main hoop to be 52" out side measurement at the bottom I was hoping this would mount at the same spot as the OP's bar.
Dave
Sorry I don't get on here much anymore. Yes somewhere I have pictures buried away. THe link you saw is accurate. My Ti muffler split the same way. I did exactly what you are doing. I got some really good header/pipe wrap. Wrapped them from behind the cats back and over the hump. Cool the console and poor mans cooling around trans/diff. It does help a lot too!
The drawback was this split muffler. It is not myth. When it blows out on the side like it does. All the heat from the exhaust runs ride up the rear quarter and clip. The back of the rear quarter, the clip, the wiring harness, both tail lights, and that black impact bumper stuff, all melted. I do mean melted.
As noted in the other picture. The tips and the mufflers get that lovely shade of blue to show they have been running hot. Now the other muffler on the other side of the car looked great. So it might be random defects from impurities in the Ti in some mufflers. Hard to tell.
If this happens during a race and you just push to finish, just be prepared for an ugly mess. If it melts the wiring in the wrong place then the car will probably shutdown anyway as the ground/hot leads will short. I can attest to that also. I replaced that wiring harness completely.
When it happens you'll know as the car will sound like you're running open exhaust and backfire some when you lift.
If you choose to run like this all I'm saying is check the outsides of your mufflers as part of your inspection routine.