cannot remove distributor






I have a '66 283 truck motor in the garage with the dist out. From what I can see on that, the distributor has to come up just about 5/8" before the shaft will spin freely all the way around. I think we all pretty much know what we are looking at, but I can take pics of the pin, gear, looking down the hole, etc if it would help, just let me know what angle view you need.
Last edited by Railroadman; Feb 2, 2017 at 05:28 PM.
This has been mentioned numerous times with no indication the OP has tried it.
No reason for this to remain a mystery of what is really wrong. You have to diagnose before you can identify the fix.
Last edited by MikeM; Feb 2, 2017 at 05:50 PM.
By removing the pan you get a visual of the gear and pin. It also allopws you to remove the oil pump and oil pump drive shaft as that might be stuck on the end of the dist gear and removes one more variable out of the equation. Now if the pin is out and not allowing the dist to come out you really have no room to work as the crank and rods are in the way. There is also no room to drop it out of the bottom but that would require wrecking the dist mech advance.
If the pin is not out of line you could use a small brass drift through oil pump driveshaft hole and tap the dist up.
These photos should help clear things up.
Picture from the top of a 406 I'm building now.
The next photos are from an old block I have.
Underside of block where the dist gear interfaces with the oil pump driveshaft
Photo showing how the oil pump drive would be in the block.
Last edited by 4 Speed Dave; Feb 2, 2017 at 05:53 PM.
This has been mentioned numerous times with no indication the OP has tried it.
No reason for this to remain a mystery of what is really wrong. You have to diagnose before you can identify the fix.
100%! It would be my ultimate last resort....But I have cut them...but it was not done due to having to get it out. It was done to make a priming tool.Jeff
Cutting the distributor with a cut off wheel would not get any shaving in the engine. Think about it. Using a vacuum to suck what is being thrown off the cutting wheel...would not do anything..and the shavings that would possibly make it down the internal shaft of the housing would be stopped BEFORE they get to the main gear....if not get collected in the area where the tach drive gear goes and a vacuum can suck them out. And knowing that the pan would be coming off.. it all can be washed out. I feel you are over reacting.
No need for an entire engine tear down and rebuild...heck..I bet there is more debris floating around inside and engine that can do harm that most people are not aware of.
And seeing how this is NOT going to be done.,.,.we will not have to
worry about it.
but seeing how '4 Speed Dave' posted photos. My idea is NOW MUTE. It would be the very last resort.
I have an engine block that I could have accessed...but from what Lars commented on. I did not think of questioning it.
DUB
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1drHzrs4PA
1. The housing can be freely rotated when the dist is jammed.
2. The dist stops abruptly with a thud when pulled upward.
3. If let go when raised it drops back down.
#1 eliminates the brilliant theory of sludge or silicone RTV.
This all points to what I said in post # 132 as being the solution without risking breaking anything inside.
If the pin is out far enough, the only way to remove the mainshaft is with the housing removed first.
But, nobody reads previous posts before jumping in. It's very hard to believe that my suggestion in #132 was only mentioned once in 16 later posts.
There are a lot of brain dead hayseeds on this Forum.
Not even "LARS, THE GREAT" came up with my solution.
In case any of you geniuses haven/t though ahead far enough: If the OP uses a slide hammer to shear that roll pin, not only does he risk breaking something, but he will then have to open the bottom to fish out the sheared off section of roll pin.
Allan.
Even if it doesn't pop out and if you aren't confortable tapping in in too much at a time, you could leave it in there overnight with some pressure on the distributor and tap it in a little each day until it breaks free.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh....php?p=6207213

That site and every other site I went to for this problem all had similar comments from 98% of the respondents. Hammer, pry bar, wiggle it, twist it, engine hoist, winch, dynamite. And there were the 2% ers. Pull the engine and do a complete tear down and be careful and don't scratch anything.
You know, if the pin is sticking out, and if it happens to be in line with the gear tooth, it likely should spiral right on out as you lift the distributor.











only leaves a useless hunk of metal still stabbed into and stuck in the guys engine block. Then what?





