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Old Aug 18, 2005 | 05:20 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Oklahoma Academy
Okay, here goes nothing.


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...z/Pict0119.jpg



Ta da! Nothing like a wrecked Corvette to lift one's spirits, eh?
not bad, I guess that's the good half!
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 12:12 PM
  #62  
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Post a list of items you need for your project, I think some of us have extra parts that you might need.
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 01:06 PM
  #63  
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Dr. G,
Where do you think the best place to post such a list might be?
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 01:41 PM
  #64  
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right here
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 01:48 PM
  #65  
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Glad to see you figured out how to post the pictures...Glad I could guide you, like others have guided me on this site. Great group of people, arn't they?
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 01:50 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by PRNDL
Glenn, you have some amazing pics there!!
THANKS!! Strokes are always appreciated! Glenn
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 03:19 PM
  #67  
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Okay, here is a partial list. I'm sure there will be details that will need to be addressed later, but for now this should get things rolling.

Front clip. Does not need to be 1971 necessarily but something that will work properly, remember this will be a modified car.
73 or later LT1 or L88 hood: anything but stock. We are going to put something under the hood and may need extra clearance.We also want to eliminate the wiper door assy.
Radiator, core support, tranny coolor and anything having to do with the front, it was destroyed in the accident.
Nice set of custom mag wheels and tires. The wider the better.
Side skirting and front spoiler, we will be leaving the rear as it is.
Window cranks and door handles.
Visors.
Black shoulder belts. The car was originally green, and while the guy replaced the lap belts with black ones, he left the green shoulder belts.

Black door panels, carpet, etc for the interior. Must be in perfect condition.

E-brake handle assy.

Shinies and headers for SBC, possibly anything high per related.

I hope this is okay.Thanks for the advice, guys.

Some of the kids are coming back from break now and they are excited when they walk inot the shop and see the Corvette. They ALL want it when it is done! Might make a good graduation present for a senior....
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 03:19 PM
  #68  
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Okay, here is a partial list. I'm sure there will be details that will need to be addressed later, but for now this should get things rolling.

Front clip. Does not need to be 1971 necessarily but something that will work properly, remember this will be a modified car.
73 or later LT1 or L88 hood: anything but stock. We are going to put something under the hood and may need extra clearance.We also want to eliminate the wiper door assy.
Radiator, core support, tranny coolor and anything having to do with the front, it was destroyed in the accident.
Nice set of custom mag wheels and tires. The wider the better.
Side skirting and front spoiler, we will be leaving the rear as it is.
Window cranks and door handles.
Visors.
Black shoulder belts. The car was originally green, and while the guy replaced the lap belts with black ones, he left the green shoulder belts.

Black door panels, carpet, etc for the interior. Must be in perfect condition.

E-brake handle assy.

Shinies and headers for SBC, possibly anything high per related.

I hope this is okay.Thanks for the advice, guys.

Some of the kids are coming back from break now and they are excited when they walk into the shop and see the Corvette. They ALL want it when it is done! Might make a good graduation present for a senior....
Reply
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 04:52 PM
  #69  
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I wouldn't remove the chrome bumpers off the car.

They are highly desirable right now... Chrome bumper sharks are going at a premium. If you plan to resale, then keep them on!

I'd also like to see you keep the flip-up headlight, too. Thats specific to the Corvette, and is very cool (if they work correctly).

Good luck with your project.
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 04:55 PM
  #70  
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There is a local (Rogers, AR) used Shark Parts specialist here.

I've been to his shop, and hes got tons of parts off older vettes.

You may want to give him a call and see what he has.

Its probably about 3-4 hour drive, but if you can save a lot of money, it may be worth it.

Country Corvettes '63-'82 parts
479-925-2031
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 05:32 PM
  #71  
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actually, as much as I was the guy telling you to chop up and improve your car, i am going to agree with the previous post that says you should keep your chrome bumpers. they are one of the few "wow" things about an early C3, and NO vette buyer that knew what he was getting would want a 71 without the chrome bumpers, modded or restoration. That's like buying a Polo shirt without the little horse on it. I think that you can lose the stupid headlights, though. They're not unique, as MANY cars have them.
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 06:01 PM
  #72  
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Bryan,
Keep posting every couple of days. Your avatar cracks me up and puts a smile on my face.
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 09:57 PM
  #73  
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This was the first week of school here this year. Right off the bat I had the new students tear down the Vette's engine. To our horror, water had gotten into it and ruined the cylinders, with two pistons frozen. I had hoped to save either the pistons or the block but the block turned out to be a two bolt main that was already .030 over, and the pistons, a once-nice set of forged TRWs, were trashed. We have not disassembled the 194 heads yet, and keep our hopes high that we can salvage something from the motor. I suppose we can add a motor to the donation wish list.

The good news is maybe we can upgrade to a big block since we are changing engines anyway.

Would we need to make suspension mods to do this?
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 10:54 PM
  #74  
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Sounds like a great project. It was suggested you look at a few Corvettes in person to get some ideas. Check out the event coming up in mid September here in North Texas. We are only 150 miles from you. You and some of the students might want to come down this way as the National Corvette Museum and Heartland Tour will be attending.

All Corvette people are invited.

check this out.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...31&forum_id=44
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 11:27 PM
  #75  
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And don't forget about Eureka Springs in the first weekend of October.
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 11:47 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by bryan27
In the opinion of someone who owns a lot of fun and expensive cars, I would NEVER pay more money for an original car. How boring! That would just mean that I would have to spend more money after buying the car to make it right. Original Vettes are so far from "right" that it is disgusting.

My advice is that while you have the car in pieces, you might as well put it back together with parts that are engineered the way you would want in a car that you would let your child drive.

These "all original" people are about as boring and short-sighted as it gets. There is a quote that I keep seeing on here that I love. It says, "If I want to see an original Vette, I'll go look in a book."

By the way, only the "all original" people think that an all original car is worth more. It's all opinion based, so make your decision based on what is the best learning experience for your class, not some fuddy-duddy's opinion, and not my opinion either.

I think that it would be a better lesson for your students to approach it like this:

"Can you see how incredibly poorly this original piece was designed and can you see how this other one is so much better..."

or

"How can we go about making this part actually work the way it was intended to?"

If you are dealing with students, they are probably young and cutting edge. I'm sure they don't stay up until 2am watching the history channel, discussing library books. Give them a fun time!


I don't really think of myself as one of "the all original" crowd. My Vette is not all original, and I am seriously thinking about other modifications to the engine to make ME HAPPY..... I am not really concerned about my car pleasing somebody else down the road "IF" I ever decide to sell it.... However, with that said.... I tend to disagree on one point. I do beleive an "all matching numbers original" car brings more money on average than one that is not. Atleast, that is what I have observed. This is comparing two cars, same make / model & same condition. Sure, a super nice frame off resto job with a hot motor will probably bring a little more than a "I need a lot of TLC" all original... but in my opinion...when you compare apples to apples... the all originals are more sought out and harder to find than the not all originals.... Of course I may be wrong... would not be the first time.

BLVette75
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 07:47 AM
  #77  
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My observations by watching eBay, listed in terms of value:

1- Concours # matching big block cars.Roadster more than coupe.

2- Concours # matching LT1. Roadster more than coupe.

3- Resto mod big block with stock body lines but spoilers, hood, ground effects. Blown or tunnel ram engine.Nothing overly radical in the body department. There is a wide body custom on eBay now that the guy can't get a bid on.

4- Resto mod small block car done the same way.

5- Non-#s matching cars restored to stock specs. (booooooring)

6- Driver quality #s matching

7- Driver quality non-#s matching.

Again, do we need to change the front suspension to use a big block?
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 08:19 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Oklahoma Academy
My observations by watching eBay, listed in terms of value:

1- Concours # matching big block cars.Roadster more than coupe.

2- Concours # matching LT1. Roadster more than coupe.

3- Resto mod big block with stock body lines but spoilers, hood, ground effects. Blown or tunnel ram engine.Nothing overly radical in the body department. There is a wide body custom on eBay now that the guy can't get a bid on.

4- Resto mod small block car done the same way.

5- Non-#s matching cars restored to stock specs. (booooooring)

6- Driver quality #s matching

7- Driver quality non-#s matching.

Again, do we need to change the front suspension to use a big block?

I will be honest, I have not read the entire thread, just bits and pieces. Let me ask you this, What is the course objective for your class? If it is to build a muscle car or "hotrod", I would make the switch to the Big Block. Is it to build something to resale, and make money for your school? I would then actively search out a "NEEDS TLC" numbers matching car. If you find a BB with a 4 speed, so much the better. Is the course designed to help your student to repair a car back to the original specs? If so, then as boring as it might be... you need to go back with original parts.

I am an instructor myself. However, I don't teach Auto Mechanics, I teach Aircraft Maintenance at a major freight company based in Memphis. (I won't mention any name, but we fly big purple and orange jets) All my courses have an outline and a course objective. As hard as it is to do at times, I try to stay focused on the objective and not stray off course. This kills a lot of time and it takes away from the main objective.

This is probably not much help.... but maybe it will help a little.

Good Luck.
BLVette75
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 08:49 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Oklahoma Academy
This was the first week of school here this year. Right off the bat I had the new students tear down the Vette's engine. To our horror, water had gotten into it and ruined the cylinders, with two pistons frozen. I had hoped to save either the pistons or the block but the block turned out to be a two bolt main that was already .030 over, and the pistons, a once-nice set of forged TRWs, were trashed. We have not disassembled the 194 heads yet, and keep our hopes high that we can salvage something from the motor. I suppose we can add a motor to the donation wish list.

The good news is maybe we can upgrade to a big block since we are changing engines anyway.

Would we need to make suspension mods to do this?
YES! You should change the springs to BB's when you go to that big block! The extra weight will cause the vette to be nose heavy. Of course you should replace all the rubber bushings wherever you can. Complete kits are for sell everywhere. I personally would go with the urathane/polly bushings, but others think rubber is better.. Replace the shocks also even if they look good. Go for a performance unit such as Koni etc.
Seems from your statements, you guys are getting fixed into what you want to do. Glad we could offer advise in a timely manner.
I also agree that you should keep the bumper. Hard nose vettes are the best looking. That's why they bring such higher numbers, but it doesn't seem like that alone is your bottom line. Glad you are doing this and allowing us to share in the project here on line. We all love restoring/modifying vettes, especially when it's on someone else's dime!

More photos! We LOVE photos. Show the damaged front, motor torn down, etc.

Last edited by Glenn"Mr.Blue"Smith; Aug 25, 2005 at 08:53 AM.
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 09:58 AM
  #80  
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I have a 350 short block 4 bolt main that i would be willing to donate, if we can get it to you from Detroit MI.
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