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The car I have now had no signs of corrosion in the support bar but I could see the usual rivet dimples, not bad but present. There were hood alignment issues due to warping that required some building up of the headlight surround panel so they did get somewhat buried in the build up. In hindsight I probably should have pulled the bar if I expect the dimples to be permanently gone after reading all this. I thought it was more of a warping issue than a corrosion issue.
Are we to assume a proper strip and repaint should include the removal of the support bar and rivets? I doubt that this is being done as a given on most repaints. I do my own work but I would imagine a shop would charge a pretty penny for this extra work.
Another thing I've got to worry about, thanks a lot!
I am glad that you understood what was written...becasue...if you cut holes in your exterior surface and posted a photo of it...that would have been TRAGIC on a level that I can not comment on.
And I will throw this one at you. When you are using whatever tool to cut the bonding strip away to get the rivet out...take the time to make a jig/template that you can clamp in place and CENTER over the shaft of the rivet...so when you run your router tool around it...you have to not worry how big to make it and how deep to set it at once you figure that out. Due to having so many rivets...TRUST ME...taking the time to make a template is worth it....or do it freehand....whatever makes you happy.
DUB
I ended up freehanding it with a dremel. It took one or two to get the change of it and the furthest ones out were a bit it a pain.
My next question...How deep should I be cleaning out the rivets. I can see remnants of the corrosion attached to what looks like the previous bonding agent. I blew out what I could with an air gun. Should I removed the prior bonding agent and any oxidation from the rivets?
When it comes time for body work, should the rivet bumps be sanded down or will sanding after a building primer cover up the remnants?
When it comes time for body work, should the rivet bumps be sanded down or will sanding after a building primer cover up the remnants?
Sanding enough to remove the bumps will make thin spots in your body... and maybe even open holes will appear. BEST bet is to get some flat boards and lots of clamps. Fill the holes from underneath with a little extra adhesive, and when you clamp the metal header to the bottom, with the boards on top, that should help push the bumps back down. It worked well for mine.... (again, THANK YOU Willcox!)
If ALL you are wanting to replace is the metal brace that you posted a photo of.. They are not that bad.
The other photos that people have posted are dealing with an entirely different support.
Depending on IF you want to remove the headlight assemblies or just lower them and get them out of the way..is up to you.
The metal support you are showing is held in by rivets that will need to be drilled out using 3/16" drill bit...BUT ..also you will more than likely need a heat gun due to the adhesive GM used BETWEEN the metal support and the SMC body material....which this adhesive provides even more strength....and should be put back in.
If it were me..I would apply the heat on the metal part so it can heat up the adhesive that is touching it and slowing begin the process of trying tot get the metal to come away form the body.. You might find that you might need to heat it up a good distance ( maybe half way) due to the metal bracket is not going to bend. SO...BE PATIENT.
There should be a major mounting bolt in the front center that should also have a thick rubber bushing. This will need to come out to get this part out. I grind paint stick to a sharp taper like chisel and use them as wedges to carefully apply pressure on the body and part to get it to slowly come apart.
IF you find that removing the headlight housing was not good enough and they need to come out....I would re-install them and then take them a part....or the front fiberglass impact bar will need to be taken off..to hopefully have enough room to allow them to drop out form the bottom and still assembled.
Sanding enough to remove the bumps will make thin spots in your body... and maybe even open holes will appear. BEST bet is to get some flat boards and lots of clamps. Fill the holes from underneath with a little extra adhesive, and when you clamp the metal header to the bottom, with the boards on top, that should help push the bumps back down. It worked well for mine.... (again, THANK YOU Willcox!)
That is exactly what we did in the write up... We put clamps on the header and boards across the bumps to pull them backwards toward the bottom. Once completed, you won't have any sign's of the repair. Grinding them out from the top is one of the worst mistakes you can find... I've said it for years... if I can find a body man that can hide a hole in a surround panel or rear deck panel.... I'd make him rich.
Hiding the holes from the top can't be done.. The original fiberglass will have a different expansion and contraction ratio than the repair and combine this with the fact that the repair will always be shrinking.... and it's an invite for an issue. Always fix the issue from below.
That is exactly what we did in the write up... We put clamps on the header and boards across the bumps to pull them backwards toward the bottom. Once completed, you won't have any sign's of the repair. Grinding them out from the top is one of the worst mistakes you can find... I've said it for years... if I can find a body man that can hide a hole in a surround panel or rear deck panel.... I'd make him rich.
Hiding the holes from the top can't be done.. The original fiberglass will have a different expansion and contraction ratio than the repair and combine this with the fact that the repair will always be shrinking.... and it's an invite for an issue. Always fix the issue from below.
IMHO,
Willcox
The same reason adding a rack to a vette is so inadvisable.
My next question...How deep should I be cleaning out the rivets. I can see remnants of the corrosion attached to what looks like the previous bonding agent. I blew out what I could with an air gun. Should I removed the prior bonding agent and any oxidation from the rivets?
Cleaning it out the very best you can ensures that you do not have any issues later on...and when prepping can cleaning them out...take time to consider how you are going to fill them back in and make it is WHEN you go and do that...you prepped those areas so whatever you apply in the holes will go in easily and NOT have air bubbles or pockets.
Originally Posted by chazde3
When it comes time for body work, should the rivet bumps be sanded down or will sanding after a building primer cover up the remnants?
Go back to post #36 and read the fourth paragraph....I prefer to get the bumps down BEFORE I bond... or...follow Willcox's recommendations.
DUB
Cleaning it out the very best you can ensures that you do not have any issues later on...and when prepping can cleaning them out...take time to consider how you are going to fill them back in and make it is WHEN you go and do that...you prepped those areas so whatever you apply in the holes will go in easily and NOT have air bubbles or pockets.
Go back to post #36 and read the fourth paragraph....I prefer to get the bumps down BEFORE I bond... or...follow Willcox's recommendations.
DUB
Just reread through it and will reference it again later when I get out to work on the car some more. I had missed the spot about heating the fiberglass bumps and pressing the bump out. I'll see what I can do with that after I get the rivet spots cleaned out.
I picked up the sem panel adhesive and the applicator gun for it. I need to rough up the header bar per their instructions later as well.
Just reread through it and will reference it again later when I get out to work on the car some more. I had missed the spot about heating the fiberglass bumps and pressing the bump out. I'll see what I can do with that after I get the rivet spots cleaned out.
I picked up the sem panel adhesive and the applicator gun for it. I need to rough up the header bar per their instructions later as well.
Thank you for the advice and help!
For what it is worth I use a tablespoon and my thumb to work down the bump.
do you also have instructions to fit the front reinforcement head light surround bar ?
If you are referring to the metal brace that is attached to the very front of the front clip....where your bumper is attached.
That is pop-riveted in place along with using some structural adhesive also to add strength. SEM 39747 or FUSOR or any good autobody 2 part adhesive that is designed to bond steel and SMC.
Hi I'm after the instructions to remove and install the picture below
front nose headlight support bar
QUOTE=DUB;1595732008]If you are referring to the metal brace that is attached to the very front of the front clip....where your bumper is attached.
That is pop-riveted in place along with using some structural adhesive also to add strength. SEM 39747 or FUSOR or any good autobody 2 part adhesive that is designed to bond steel and SMC.
Hi I'm after the in
That is exactly what we did in the write up... We put clamps on the header and boards across the bumps to pull them backwards toward the bottom. Once completed, you won't have any sign's of the repair. Grinding them out from the top is one of the worst mistakes you can find... I've said it for years... if I can find a body man that can hide a hole in a surround panel or rear deck panel.... I'd make him rich.
Hiding the holes from the top can't be done.. The original fiberglass will have a different expansion and contraction ratio than the repair and combine this with the fact that the repair will always be shrinking.... and it's an invite for an issue. Always fix the issue from below.
IMHO,
Willcox
I am also going to do this job this winter. So the bumps should go back to original shape and then I guess you could block sand the area to get whatever bumps are left or what didn't go back in.
I do not know if that bar is correct...because if my memory serves me correctly...unless it is hidden due your photo angle...there should be an area in the center of it that allows a rubber bushing to be used in conjunction with the front steel impact bar assembly.
You need to see if yours has this added piece of steel on the bracket.
Good info! I need to do this as well, I have an 81 and the support had already fallen from the glue, so it was just 2 bolts to remove it. Trying to decide between fixing the rust or buying a new brace.
Is it possible to remove and replace the Headlight Bar from the bottom without damaging the paint? Mine is rusted to **** but does have decent paint. Its would be a hard spot to touch-up.
Sorry did t reply been in New York Yer car was painted 2 years ago by the original owner but I’m not happy with it so have to paint the front again anyways Yerthe nose support bar is rusted through so want to do this job soon.Just worried about taking the old one off that I don’t wreck anything.Yes I’m in Melbourne Australia QUOTE=bazza77;1595242663]Hi there Robbie, Is it badly rusted and no longer strong enough to work , it is the piece in your pic ?,how are the other pieces under there ?
So to get at it you have to remove the headlight units completely , the front bumper cover has to come off (I hope you haven't just painted the car). The "honeycomb " impact cover is still probably in the way now so that will have to come off . The big "battering" ram metal impact bumper might have to come off or maybe just loosened to get at the middle of the front support. There is some angled bracing coming off the frame in the front wheel wells , they go out to each front corner , they have to be dealt with. THEN you have to drill out the original rivets holding it onto the hood surround (fibreglass).Sounds easy enough
It isn’t the correct one I have bought the correct one now.No nothing is taken off yet haven’t started the job just worried how do you remove the old one without breaking stuff
QUOTE=DUB;1595732309]I believe that you have a 1980-1982.
I do not know if that bar is correct...because if my memory serves me correctly...unless it is hidden due your photo angle...there should be an area in the center of it that allows a rubber bushing to be used in conjunction with the front steel impact bar assembly.
You need to see if yours has this added piece of steel on the bracket.
Hi there Robbie, Is it badly rusted and no longer strong enough to work , it is the piece in your pic ?,how are the other pieces under there ?
So to get at it you have to remove the headlight units completely , the front bumper cover has to come off (I hope you haven't just painted the car). The "honeycomb " impact cover is still probably in the way now so that will have to come off . The big "battering" ram metal impact bumper might have to come off or maybe just loosened to get at the middle of the front support. There is some angled bracing coming off the frame in the front wheel wells , they go out to each front corner , they have to be dealt with. THEN you have to drill out the original rivets holding it onto the hood surround (fibreglass).Sounds easy enough
where in Australia are you ?
im in Melbourne going to tackle this job maybe next winter
07-31-2017, 09:47 PM
That is exactly what we did in the write up... We put clamps on the header and boards across the bumps to pull them backwards toward the bottom. Once completed, you won't have any sign's of the repair. Grinding them out from the top is one of the worst mistakes you can find... I've said it for years... if I can find a body man that can hide a hole in a surround panel or rear deck panel.... I'd make him rich. 
For what it is worth I use a tablespoon and my thumb to work down the bump.
