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just my two cents, for all you guys running the taller wheels, get some bigger roters to match, does not look good.its like going to a restaurant and getting a large plate delivered to you with just a kernel of corn in the middle, I hope you all get this, cus if you don't, well I will stop here ..
Kinda like if you were to build a big block, and stop at 509ci instead of say a 598 or even bigger
Not sure if you have priced a proper 13"+ brake kit but they arent cheap! (just like bigger cube BBCs!)
X2. Are they the new AR aluminum 18"? What size tires are you running? I had talked with a rep a few months ago and he had said the AR ralleys are 2 pc.
Kinda like if you were to build a big block, and stop at 509ci instead of say a 598 or even bigger
Not sure if you have priced a proper 13"+ brake kit but they arent cheap! (just like bigger cube BBCs!)
not cheap at all, im gathering all my parts right now.im going to run 335 18s with 315s up front, vansteel coil over suspension,with a big break kit.
Is there a complete list of all of the wheel specs, back-spacing, tire sizes and suspension modifications (or no mod) required to fit all of the wheels in this list?
So many choices, it is overwhelming.
I really LIKE the gray spoke torque thrust with (brushed aluminum?) perimeters... in 17" or 18". Sure would like to know the ID # and specs to fit them under my '80 L48 with no changes to my suspension.
A compilation of what our members have as far as wheel/ tire fitment wouldn't be a bad idea. If you look at your current configuration and measure your clearances underneath and at your fender. Taking into account your suspension travel. You should come up with a size that will work. Just remember that the tires that you go with my stick out past your wheel. Tire rack has the specs of tires that will tell you the over all width and the tread width.
Originally my plan was to use 18x9 1/2 on the rear with a 285 40 18. I have been looking at about 5 different wheels and the only one that both my wife and I like are the American Racing Rally wheel. They do not offer it in 9.5 in but in 9 or 10. Will a 10 in wheel with a 5.5 in back spacing work? I do have Van Steel off set T arms. Her is a photo of the rim.
These wheels look like the wheels I bought from..Wheel Vintique or Billet Vintique...Can't remember since they changed their name. The wheels look pretty much like stock wheels with the beauty rings..when you look at them from about 6 feet away. They don't have beauty rings, just polished aluminum. I bought a set of four for the 68 and paid about $2500. I easily would have considered buying another set for the 70 but for one thing. The little hat cap disks are made of flash chrome plated steel.......stock was stainless steel. The hat caps will rust very easily. The hat caps cost about $70 each, I've bought two extra just to try to keep the 68 looking nice. If it wasn't for these really cheap flash chromed plated hub caps I would have bought another set.
I suspect it was perhaps patents or something.. The stock stainless hub caps from C3's will not fit on these Rallye Wheels. You have to buy their cheap made in China hub caps that will rust in the bink of an eye.
Another rim/tire dummy here who owns a '72 and a '73...
So for those of us who don't want to have to make any mods, after reading through the posts in this thread it looks like this will work for the rims:
Front: 18x8 with 4 inch backspace
Rear: 18x9.5 with 5 inch backspace
Am I correct that no mods would be necessary, including no e-brake bracket mods?
If so, what size tires will work with those rims and not cause any fender or frame rubbing? Would these work:
Front: 245/45/18
Rear: 285/40/18
Basically, can anyone suggest the complete set of specs for a rim/tire "dummy" like me to purchase that won't require any mods but will allow me to purchase readily-available rims and tires for "spirited" () street use?
... Having read this thread, you are no longer categorized a 18" diameter wheel dummy. Now you are "informed".
Is that the same as saying I now know enough to be dangerous?
Originally Posted by Dustup7T2
You have 90% of the info needed to run what you want. ...
Any insight as to what other things I need to research for that last 10% of info, or is that 10% based on what happens when I try to mount the new wheels?
These wheels look like the wheels I bought from..Wheel Vintique or Billet Vintique...Can't remember since they changed their name. The wheels look pretty much like stock wheels with the beauty rings..when you look at them from about 6 feet away. They don't have beauty rings, just polished aluminum. I bought a set of four for the 68 and paid about $2500. I easily would have considered buying another set for the 70 but for one thing. The little hat cap disks are made of flash chrome plated steel.......stock was stainless steel. The hat caps will rust very easily. The hat caps cost about $70 each, I've bought two extra just to try to keep the 68 looking nice. If it wasn't for these really cheap flash chromed plated hub caps I would have bought another set.
I suspect it was perhaps patents or something.. The stock stainless hub caps from C3's will not fit on these Rallye Wheels. You have to buy their cheap made in China hub caps that will rust in the bink of an eye.
I spoke to American Racing about the center caps and they claim that on their wheel the factory 68-82 Corvette center caps will work. Most of the Corvette venders do sell the SS center caps.
Any insight as to what other things I need to research for that last 10% of info, or is that 10% based on what happens when I try to mount the new wheels?
It was only intended to say that nothing is perfect and that there are no absolutes in life, except death and taxes, of course.
The final fitment is up to you and the car. No guarantees stated or inferred. If that is what you are asking, then I can only wish you continued success in your future endeavors. Please let us know what choices you've made and show us some digital results, when convenient. You must know that CF members love pictures of your project(s).
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