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So, are you saying that by changing out the springs from the 9 inch to the 8 inch, plus the additional work you did, you achieved a total of 1/2 inch lower stance in the rear?
Are you concerned about any contact between the top of the tire and the lip of the wheel well?
The stance is very nice.
I might need to contact Dan.
Thanks for costing me more $$$$$$
I am not concerned re touching as the tyre should camber inward a bit when it goes up but to test it I will set the shocks at "0" for compression and rebound and then it should bounce up and down heaps when i push it to test.
I had a good talk with Dan this morning and he said that their couplers have one side machined down to 2.5mm so you can minimise the contact between coupler and base. However the Eibach coupler is thinner in the middle. He also said most people ran the spring on bottom but because they use the 5.5 mm bearing plates and with the reduced coupler they avoid the issue.
He also said the QA1 shock assemblies have varied a bit over time on the tophat height etc.
In fact he said before QA1 made 2.25” ID coilovers they machined down the QA1 2.5" versions to fit they're applications.
I am not sure if top or bottom mount of the helper is preferred but I will do some more research. The top certainly has more scope for further adjustment.
All this for a few mm's of adjustment to get the stance....hmm is it worth it :-)
Once I get my Faulkner springs along with some more top assemblies i may do some more experiments with machining down parts.
looking at the gap between the tyre and the fender. looks plenty low to me. not certain of your ground clearance. but 100mm is the spec here in Australia.
yes what’s legal here makes for a rather high rear end to get the pipes under the diff...luckily we don’t have yearly inspections.....if we did i could always just wind it up a bit :-)
I gave the 71 its first real wash in over 12 months.
Carports come in handy when it's sunny.
Fitted the Stingray guard emblems so it looks more finished. They needed a bit of bending and tweaking to sit perfectly flat. I also worked the paint behind them before final fit.
Entire car will need a finishing go over with a DA and fine correction polish then wax, but that's still a while off :-)
Craig I think that I already asked you but I will ask again.
How did you find the right interior paint colour to dye the interior?
Someone before me changed the interior in my car to light saddle from original royal blue (same as yours) and I would like to change it back.
And also, if you don't mind, I have saved every one of the photos from this thread (your build) because your work is a huge wealth of knowledge for me.
I just finished building my garage and just have to transport my vette here and then I will start/finish my build. And then I will bother you with more questions for my 71 build.
Craig I think that I already asked you but I will ask again.
How did you find the right interior paint colour to dye the interior?
Someone before me changed the interior in my car to light saddle from original royal blue (same as yours) and I would like to change it back.
And also, if you don't mind, I have saved every one of the photos from this thread (your build) because your work is a huge wealth of knowledge for me.
I just finished building my garage and just have to transport my vette here and then I will start/finish my build. And then I will bother you with more questions for my 71 build.
I took an interior part that had the colour I wanted to a paint shop and got them to mix it for me in vinyl paint. Took a few goes to get it good..
Since then i have tinted it a bit as it seemed to change a bit over years of sitting in the can.
Questions always welcome...hopefully I will have some answers as well :-)
I spent a day or two getting the vacuum systems back on line in the Vette. Has been disconnected during all the repair and paint process.
Was fairly frustrating but found some great gems of knowledge from Dub and others around reproduction vacuum relays etc etc while researching.
The key one was that reproduction relays have a spring that is much stronger than original versions. This can contribute to winking lights and wiper door pop on startup..
So I jumped into some parts boxes and found my older relays that were replaced. When I first reworked the vacuum system.
Some simple tests and oh yes the spring tension is much stronger on the new ones and when the engine first starts it means the control signal (white stripe tube) can be too slow to build pressure and ensure they stay shut.
I saw on ebay an original 71 set of relays in Australia so grabbed them yesterday and will do some more testing of then and my old ones and then probably restore the best originals.
I'd love to come see it at the nationals too having followed from the ACA days, but not sure my 68 would make it. Your front end semi coil overs are helping me make it one step closer though.