I will be installing the vintage air system when I can get to doing my dash but that wont be this summer

 

I accidentally downloaded the PDF of the Vintage A/C system install, awhile back. So I looked through it, out of curiosity. It looked like a very easy install! NOT! I saw big holes, that had to be cut, just like so, or else! Wasn't a job for the timid, that's for sure!

 

I've heard that it can be a challenge in stuffing everything under the dash and running the vent tubing but I haven't heard that you had to do any cutting... I also haven't looked at the install PDF either.

EDIT: I was thinking of classic Auto Air http://www.classicautoair.com/68_76_..._Chevy_AC.html

 

I just perused the install instructions. I saw very little cutting, mainly to the black plastic ducts. Doesn't look as tough as the Vintage Air system, but of course, it's not an easy deal either. Doable, though, with patience and beer! The price sure is right.

 

People report that the Classic Auto Air is ice cold, will freeze your feet out. Don't know if I want to go quite that far

 

I think they were exaggerating. I never heard of anyone complaining about being to cold in a C3 corvette.

 

Funny you should say that as this is my problem now here in the winter. Car was too hot inside most of the time but when the trans was out I put that insulation with the dimpled aluminium lining into the trans tunnel now come winter I need more heat! I didn't put a collar around the bell housing either and it doesn't seem to need it now. I also wrapped the exhausts where they run alongside the trans but it was way cooler inside before I did that. The rest of the underside is std and there is no special insulation under the carpet. Next job is to make sure water is circulating through the heater core properly, I never put isolating valves in the lines but I did add a vacuum operated shutoff that is worked by the heater controls.

 

Believe it or not it is possible.
I still have the stock A/C system in my '77 converted to 134A. It is so cold that you cannot have it on continously while cruising. This is a black vette on a sunny 90* plus day.

However, I have ceramic coated long tube headers with side pipes.
Also have Fat mat Mega mat and refectix under the carpet.
Have the C4 circulation blower and water shut offs on the heater core.
All combined it makes for super cold air.

Wife gets too cold and have to either shut it off occasionally or open the heater shutoff valves to get the core to heat up the air a little on it's way in.

 

That's chilly!!!

 

Das a fact.......Jack! I wouldn't have believed those Corvette owner either (350/450.....yeah----right!).

But they are telling the truth....as I said before....my V.A. system will make your toes hurt if you leave the floor vent on too long! And I only turn the fan UP TO medium in stop n' stop Looz-i-anna city traffic! I do have the entire cab/inside/overhead/outside/firewall/floorboard/ inner door skins/under-dash/under-body completely covered wit thick aluminum sound-heat-cool-proofing!

 

anyone have any experience with the C3 insulation kit sold at Ecklers. looks like the same thing sold by Vettenuts.net and Madvettes.

although both of them claim the it is made in house and have the same text. "alot of research and development has gone into this kit, and we are proud to say that our kit is made to our demanding specs, in house, and cut off of our own original templates."

I am not sure who really makes it. sound deadening would be nice, but heat reduction in my non AC 74 would come first. that is my main goal.

I have heard of putting down the Reflectix from Lowes on top of other insulation. but on their package it says requires 1.75" air space minimum required. it wasn't intended to lay on a floor of a car.

I am open to any suggestions. the more I read the more I am discouraged I can do this effectively to reduce heat and noise for less and , I don't want to spend 500.00.

 

I'm sure the Eckler's kit is good quality, and would be easier than installing the Dynamat which requires a lot of cutting and shaping things to fit. That said, I bought two boxes of Dynamat and a roll of reflectix and reflectix tape After a weekend of installation, the combination made a world of difference. My car was uncomfortable to drive before, and now I can cruise along without cooking my legs and feet. That plus the vintage air and I could drive my '70 every day.

 

I wouldn't buy **** from ecklers, they are crooks!

 

I drove the car yesterday from Leesburg to Winchester and back. About an hour plus each way. The car was so blasted hot that my wife and I had to change clothes when we got home. Probably lost a few pounds on the trip...a great weight loss tool.

I did still have the plenum sealed shut. It was hard to tell where the heat is coming from, but I reached my hand down under the dash at the gas pedal and the air coming from under the dash was probably 150*! You wouldn't be able to keep your hand there long and I wouldn't want to be touching any metal down there. My manifolds are stock, and the side exhaust is relatively far from the passenger compartment.

I have never seen my wife looking so hot :-)!!!

We are going to only take short trips in the Corvette until it gets cooler outside. Now that I own a touring motorcycle we ride that to many destinations when the weather is warm.

As was said earlier, I would rather not have to spend a ton of money to resolve this. I know at least one owner that ended up selling his car because he couldn't get this resolved. It does take the joy out of driving the car any significant distance.

John

 

I keep up with this thread because being a rookie, I never had a clue that cabin heat is a problem with these cars! It's a shame that members can't enjoy the ride, but it's worth the time/trouble/cost to solve the heat problem....even if you only upgrade one side of the cabin at a time....(I did it all since racoons destroyed the carpet...LOL)






If the interior of my car had been in good condition, I would have done the passenger's side from firewall to tail lights first since that side would be easier to learn the tricks of installation.

 

I put that stuff under my carpet, I think it helped a little but not enough. The heat shielding I'm putting on the underside is doing a much better job but I think between the two I've probably shed 25 - 35* from the inside. I didn't start taking temp readings until after the stuff I put under the carpet so I can't be sure.

It's my hope that when I can get my new ceramic coated and wrapped headers on it will cool it off a few more degrees, we'll see.

LudemJo, you are going to spend some money to be sure but look at what some of us have done and start implementing what you think will work from our experiences. If I had to do it over again I'd put the heat shielding that I'm using under the car both on inside and out, I still may at some point

 

That's terrible. And with stock manifolds too! I'd almost be willing to bet, it was the steering column. That big metal plate that supports it on the front of the driver's side, sure seems to pick up a lot of heat! Next time you're cruising around (by yourself...), reach down and grab it and tell us what you find. You may have to apply the external heat shield stuff that Airborne Silva was doing.

PS. Went Friday to get qoutes on reworking the exhaust system to accomodate the new block hugger headers. Three different places, same price: $500! And that's reusing the almost new Flowmasters on the car!!!

 

insulation. Vettenuts.net appears to have the same product for 84.00 less. I see alot of people recomend insulating under the car and hood and using some type of heat barriers outside the car, like wrapping headers etc. for better heat reduction than doing the inside of the car.

Doorgunner is the precut kit also what you used?

Most of the products out there seem to be geared towards sound than heat, but all claim they block heat too. And alot of the foruns concentrate more about noise than heat reduction.
But then Dynomat says if you want to block heat, then buy Dynaliner for on top. Now it is really getting expensive. I have been reading about as many of these as I could.
I was sold on Fatmat rattletrap, but then hearing people say you can smell the asphalt based when it got hot, one person said it went away after a couple months (or maybe they just got used to it.)
Hushmat sounded good, but that seemed to be the manufactures opinion and get some mixed reviews from users, and not alot of them. Even Hushmat wants to sell something extra to put on top. they are a bit higher in price also.
the precut kit sounds real handy for installation purposes and you know it will cover everything.
My Vette has sat in my garage dissasembled through the coolest part of the year while I have been trying to find a good comparison of each of these products. From my searches I haven't found any independent source that tested and compared these products. the quiter cabin would be nice, but really my whole goal is to make the car more livable during the hot days. expand my driving year a little without breaking the bank.

I think I need to get an infared thermometer and take some readings before installing the insulation so I can get an idea of improvement. the seats can be stuck back in long enough to go for a ride to heat it up. althought the longer I drive it in high 80's temperture the hotter it gets.

 

Good idea...some of tnhe best money that you can spend!

My '34 truck fiberglass cab was unbearable in the summer with only carpet & backing.....the A/C could hardly keep up. Upgrading to the insulation/soundproofing inside/out/front/back/top/bottom----the A/C NEVER gets adjusted any higher than Med fan/Med Cool even in the city.

When I learned that Corvettes were hot....insulation was the FIRST updrade on my list....while I had the dash out, I even did that area). I'll do like you and put the heavy-duty insulation on the firewall and under the car (leaving an air-gap over the top of the A/T) .

 

The thing that is most confusing to me is that I feel like air is BLOWING out from under the dash. I have done the light in the engine compartment test and did find some holes that I sealed up. With the plenum sealed up there should be no place for the engine compartment air to come in, but it is super heated air from the engine compartment without a doubt. I understand the steering column could get very hot, but that would not make air blow. I do need to figure out what is going on with my HVAC system soon as that may be a major contributor to the air velocity problem. The air flowing on the outside around the windshield was relatively cool, the t-tops were off, so hot air is not coming in from there.

Honestly, the right way to do this is to pull the motor and transmission, as well as the carpeting and dash....that ain't going to happen.....it is very frustrating....there is so much I would rather do to this car rather than mess with this!

John