No argument from me here, you have your methods and I'll respect that. Late last night, got the passenger side shield perfected and am picking up the driver's side today. Hope to have them mounted today and I'll be testing this weekend.

 

The insulation that I used weighs next to nothing. A 200 sq ft roll is extremely light weight, so a few sections under the vette adds practically no weight. And if it were to come loose and fly out from under the car, it would do about as much damage as a paper bag. The worst would be to get back under, clean, and replace the missing piece.

 

Thanks for filling me on the lightweight characteristics of the material. It looks very much, like the stiff, heavy reflective material or blankets that we use to line the engine compartments of jet aircraft. You did a great job on applying the material to the body of your C3. This would work well if you had a bare and cleaned up underside to apply it to.

I'm obviously going a different route, with different materials. I'll be reporting the results, good or bad this weekend.

 

Honestly, people doing different mods to their vettes is what inspired me and gave me ideas when I was building mine. I look forward to seeing your results.

 

Thanks! I guess what I'm really trying for is a true 'bolt on' application for us guys who either skipped the step when they had their Corvettes apart or putting on the shields on a running vehicle. The passenger side shield on my car, took a huge amount of work to get it right!

Speaking of inspiration, you are right on about that. A coworker and a good bud of mine, told me about the heat problems that many sport bikes have and sure enough, you oughta see how many baked butts on bikes are out there!

So I signed on to one of the forums and shared what I've done here so far and the response was very good! I came up with the idea of sending out ten free kits for testing, so they can apply this material, backed by a thin layer of neoprene under the seat! I want to see 'real world' testing from them and at least half of them have laser thermometers to record the results! I'm mailing out the kits tommorow. And it's gonna be way easier (if it works), to sell it to them, versus what I'm doing to my C3!

 

If you want to send me a free kit for my 1970 C3 I will be happy to test it for you and share the results. :-)

 

F22... How will you attach the film to your shield?

 

I might just use PSA! But for the meanwhile, 3M Super 77 for the prototype only. That's what held up on that 6x6 plate and will last long enough to test tommorow. You'll be pleased to hear that I finished the floor shields today. Bending, welding, pounding and a shared IPA this morning. They fit really well! Get film on, mount up the shields to the upper screws where the old useless shield went amd we'll see if it works as well as that plate experiment, I documented earlier. The '74 will be rolling out with them late this PM. Wish us luck, hoping it works. Now back to the car...

 

Go get 'em! I'll be waiting for the results

 

Thanks! Just got the driver's shield coated with the Kapton film and it came out beautiful! The passenger side is coming up after my margarita, which I'm having now. It looks like total chrome.

 

[QUOTE=F22;1584914277]I might just use PSA! But for the meanwhile, 3M Super 77 for the prototype only.

Thought so...

 

Gawd, just got done shutting of the air compresser and it's after 9 PM. Pulled an 11 hour day on the shields and Corvette. I'll inspect it, before it comes off the jacks. Tommorow is the day, we see if it does , what it's supposed to do. I am wiped!

 

Do yourself a favor and read the MSDS sheet for the 3M Super 77
Appears to be pretty flammable! Hate to see your hard work ruined!

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...9lxtD7SSSSSS--

 

Bruce, why do I get the feeling that you have got a stick in your hand? What's next, a lecture on the thermal properties of T-5052 aluminum vs 6061? I gotta ask, what DID you create this week? I put in late nights, sweating my behind off and solid weekends for ten days, trying to create a product that might benefit the Corvette community. If I pissed you off somehow, then I apologize, but do me a favor and butt out. Any other comments made by you, will be ignored.

Rant off

 

Hey F22, I am with you on your rant to Bruce. In every group, club, forum, whatever there is always the guy who sees himself as a rocket scientist, engineer, or otherwise self proclaimed expert who lives every minute of his life talking down to everyone. They are full of engineering lingo, statistics and there version of facts that they believe proves there theories. They are not content unless they are picking apart any idea that was not theirs.

With that being said, I think any of us who are NOT in the above said category should always listen to ideas. Because for me, I have been known to think down the wrong path. His comment on the 3M77 bursting into flames makes me wonder. The adhesive would be on the back side of your insulator. AND, if it really gets that hot, then it would seem to me that the fiberglass that has been already exposed to this heat would have melted or burst into flames, and it obviously has not. But to be sure, maybe some experimentation would be worth it.

 

It was only friendly advice! What if it did burn?

No stick here! I tried to engage with a question and comment about the Topic of this thread "Interior heat", but it had nothing to do with Kapton film...
Next time Ill keep quiet!

Good luck on your project

 

I already checked on this with my Engineer buds where I work and they told me I'd be ok. 90 percent of the VO's are in the propellant and catalysts and once those are gone, your left with the adhesive, it just won't last as long as a high temp adhesive. If you take a look at one of the pics, earlier in the thread, I've got a 6x6 inch steel plate, with the Kapton and the 3M 77, being subject to 540 degrees and that was for fifteen minutes! I did in fact, check the plate yesterday and the adhesive is still holding strong.

Thanks for your sincere concern and thoughts. I'm testing today and we're going to see the results. If I, fail, well so be it. At least I tried.

 

Will you first test without the shield, to have some type of base line?

 

Summary of the day, so far,.minimal results, with only a ten-twenty difference, but have zero clearance for the driver's side. I will add spacers to push it away when it cools down. The tried-and-true method is multiple layers of this material and I will try that as well.

Not a success, by any measure, just a data point and a start towards getting there. Mike's effort got me to thinking, especially when it comes to aircraft engine blankets, that are really stiff aluminum with multiple layers, and hold a shape. We'll keep trying, with spacing , etc. Thanks for following.

 

Not a vette...'36 truck cab-----fiberglass.....covered by reflective heat insulation with noise supressor over that.....and felt backed carpet over that on the floor.

Doors and roof got reflective heat insulation and noise suppressor using yellow spray-on contact cement.

Underside of cab and front of firewall got heat reflective insulation/noise suppressor .

Everthing on firewall & underside of cab was installed with self-tapping screws/fender washersevery 12 inches just long enough to penetrate thruough layers of insulation and fiberglass body---interior insulation & carpet completely covered slightly protruding screws (no glue failure years later to worry about).

Works great/soundproofs great....but an small a/c duct pointed at driver & passenger floorboard keep our feet COOL as the rest of the cab!




(Somehow the bed aluminum diamondplate pic is overlapping the floor insulation pic ?!?!?!?!?)


Total cost about $200 (NOT dynamat but still good quality materials)

If'n I get the '68 vette...it'll get the same treatment!!!!

Yes...it's well worth the weekend and the $200.

Wrapping the headers/exhaust pipes/heat shields over the two cats is next and well worth the time....



Ratttts.....I lost the pic of the completed underside of the cab---but it looks identical to the interior plus the screw with fender washers holding every 12 inches holding all the shiny stuff in place for 7 years.