Interior Heat
I will be bonding the firewall on this week! I was going to use Lizard Skin,
but now I think I will either the Zero clearance type on the under side, and fire wall and possibly the Ez cool inside?
I like Zero clearance type over the Ez cool, for two reasons...
The Zero clearance has PSA glue rated to 450*F, use fiberglass instead of the cell type insulation.
The Zero clearance type seems like it will hold up better under the car?
Here is what I am looking at
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40
Secondly, you've got the bare firewall thing going, and that's great, but most of the people here, their Corvettes are complete, which means, that I had to come up with a design that goes in, without a lot of major disassembly. You will probably have to loosen the exhaust pipe behind the collector to get the heat shield in, that I'm designing. Other than that, I'm using the factory mounts.
I have to test it out and I anticipate the mockup of the driver's side, being done by the weekend and if it all goes well, two test shields for both sides by the end of next week, so that we can verify fit and most of all, function. Because if it doesn't work, I have no interest in releasing it.
So many choices out there but I'm looking for a stick on to cover the foot wells.
It's pricey but HP Sticky Shield from Heatshield Products looks like it would work as it got a 1/8" insulation as well as a aluminum cover.
Has anyone had some success with with something like this?
Last edited by ddawson; Sep 4, 2013 at 12:43 PM.





After reading through this thread and a few others dealing with the heat issues, I think the focus needs to be on keeping the firewall cool from the engine side first, and then inside as a secondary layer. Like some (many) of you, our issue is not heat from the vents, but the footwell areas. Ceramic coated headers and NO heater hoses hooked up.
Regis-AKA F22-
Glad to see you experimenting....
Here's some of my thoughts-
Air IS a good insulator...but becomes a POOR insulator if it is in motion.
I keep going back to my original idea...
Lizard skin on the inside...Zero clearance on the outside...
And maybe a thin layer of Styrofoam on the inside-
Richard
Regis-AKA F22-
Glad to see you experimenting....
Here's some of my thoughts-
Air IS a good insulator...but becomes a POOR insulator if it is in motion.
I keep going back to my original idea...
Lizard skin on the inside...Zero clearance on the outside...
And maybe a thin layer of Styrofoam on the inside-
Richard
Regarding the lizard skin, try it out and take some photo's, it'd be intriguing to see how it works! A lot of good ideas being put out here.
As far as air being an insulator, that's not necessary with the Kapton Film, because the radiant heat is being directly reflected and I'm not relying on the 'insulation' properties of air, to dissipate or slow down the heat before it gets to the floorboard.
You only have to look at the pics of the steel plate to see the incredible reflective quality of the Kapton film. From 444 degrees an inch away, to 173 degrees on the back of the plate. No air gap between the film and the plate, it's directly glued on.
http://www2.dupont.com/Media_Center/..._FactSheet.pdf
http://www2.dupont.com/Kapton/en_US/...ce-H-78318.pdf
Do you plan to sell this as a kit?
Do you plan to sell the templates and instructions and have the user purchase the material? Is this material even commercially available?
Looking forward to your test drive results!
Nearly complete, using the prior night's experience, this afternoon, I put the driver's side together and then trimmed to fit. It's just about there. I used the wrong side, so forgive the printing on the cardboard mockup.

Close up of Driver's side inside corner. You can see, where I tore a small piece out to accomodate the clutch linkage on the lower left corner. Naturally, this will be a nice square on the final product.

Side View, showing more than adequate clearance to exhaust

This is the bottom of the factory aluminum heat shield

Finally, one of the 375 yard rolls of Aluminized Kapton Film that I have. To answer Flivver's question, this stuff is very hard to get, I can't find anything of any decent quantity. They're selling it on ebay for $175 a pound and it's pretty pricey by the yard, and that's not even the aluminized Kapton, just the regular K for PC board, coil use, etc.

We're making progress and I want to get my hands on some metal tonight, so we may start fabbing up the prototypes. I want to keep the ball rolling on this, just to see if it works. If it does, yay! If it doesn't, then we'll figure out what we need to do, to make it work or else!

We're making progress
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Secondly, you've got the bare firewall thing going, and that's great, but most of the people here, their Corvettes are complete, which means, that I had to come up with a design that goes in, without a lot of major disassembly. You will probably have to loosen the exhaust pipe behind the collector to get the heat shield in, that I'm designing. Other than that, I'm using the factory mounts.
In a sense, you're already getting heat soak from the firewall, as it is black in color and soaks up the radiant heat from the heads. If you had a kapton covered firewall, reflecting it back, it won't be a 'direct' reflection straight back into the head, but will radiate outwards in all directions (up, down, around) and willl actually disperse the heat! And because a kapton-covered firewall will be significantly cooler than a 'black' soak-up-the-whole-spectrum', it will probably help cool the engine compartment down.
For now, we're only going up to where the factory heat shield on the lower front of the firewall/footwell ends at the diagonal. So no change to the factory firewall (for now). I've already given thought to that, but it has to be a 'sanitary' install that's going to meet the requirements for what I'm doing with the lower part of the firewall, floorboards and trans tunnel.
Last edited by F22; Sep 5, 2013 at 11:20 AM. Reason: More thinking.
Today, the driver's side in foam board.
GBC, regarding your question, the material is not easy to get and it is very expensive (as many of you found out). My plan is to do a limited 'introduction' of so many, after I test out the results, with pics and documentation, as you've seen in this thread.
If it does, what I think it's going to do, you'll have a whole lot less heat in the car. While laying under there, for the fifth day in a row, I believe I can also add another separate set of heat shields over the top of the lower horizontal half of the headers all the way to just past the bell housing and it'd be a bolt-on too.
I anticipate testing my '74 with the mounted heat shields by the end of the week for testing and documenting the results. I already have a 'before' picture of 130 degrees and this weekend is going to be similar, with temps over 95 degrees and approaching 100 in some areas. Of course, pictures and test results will follow!











