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It only took one week and 10" of rain for the Pacific Ocean Hurricane to work it's way through Louisiana.....it's clear today.
Father-in-law did great in this second surgery.....no week stay in the hospital this time.....he will be discharged in an hour.....then in 10-14 days-----one more out-patient surgery to tweak the artery in his right leg.
That is such good news to hear that the second surgery went so well today. And you know the whole C-3 forum is here to help you through things, DG. Lou.
Maybe I can do a little more to the car tonight and boost my morale a little since the rain has stopped down here.
111250[/QUOTE]
The remnants of Patricia went through here yesterday. Not too bad in my area, but Toronto took the usual hit due to its proximity to Lake Ontario and many major roads and rail lines that are in flood zones.
We usually get whatever blows north out of the Gulf of Mexico.
I will include all future tank modification pics into this post to make following along easier.
The new fuel tank parts are in sections to make welding easier. I will use a hole saw to fit the sending unit into the round plate with machine screws.....then attach the assembly to the tank with machine screws. This will give me an access hole in the bottom of the tank in case it ever needs cleaning because of "trash or bad fuel". The two baffles with be extra support for "rear end collisions" and also to prevent "slosh" so the fuel gauge will be accurate. I will add a return line port and filler neck when the tank is test-fitted between the frame rails. The tank will hold the same amount of fuel, but will be hidden from view/no "under-hang"............
I FORCED myself into the garage! It didn't take long for two hours of notching and welding to go by.
I notched the two baffle plates at the bottom to help the tank fill faster.........
A wooden yardstick cut into 7" long sections did a good job of keeping the top/bottom panels from drawing together while welding the baffles. The 3-bend wall section is standing next to the tank.....
I left a 3/4" air-gap between the baffles and the tank top (on the right side) to help "burp" the tank when re-fueling..............
That's it for tonight. I will make a diagram of the round plate tonight. It needs a 1/8" pipe plug to drain any contaminated fuel or water...... a 3/8" diameter suction tube to connect the flexible section of fuel line...... a bracket for mounting the sending unit....and 8 mounting holes around the plate for attaching to the bottom of the tank.
(Note to myself: Drill a .343" diameter hole in the plate with a 5/8" diameter by 1/8" deep recess for the sending lead to fit into)
I'll weld a return line port and vent port to the top wall of the tank when the tank is test-fitted in the frame............I still haven't decided where the filler neck will be installed.
I laid out the bolt patterns and drilled the 8 holes to tap size for #10-32 threads/the holes will be used as guide-holes when I drill into the tank......I also drilled and tapped the 1/8" NPT drain hole......and drilled/countersunk the hole for the sender lead......
Then I centered the cover over the hole in the tank/then drilled through the tank with the tap-drill (bit)............
Then I re-drilled the holes in the cover so that the #10-32 screws would fit........
I am also fairly dangerous with a rattle-can...................
REMINDER: Position the tank so that all welds are at waist level.....Grind out sloppy welds!
It was easier to split the panel in half to make sure the sending unit does not rub against the rear wall/shows the correct readings once I install it.....I laid the other half partially on the tank .....................
This pic of Southern Engineering should bring a tear or two of pride to Uncle Bubba's eyes........
3/4" clearance between the float and the top of the tank...........
3/4"clearance between the float and the bottom of the tank.........
Tomorrow I'll try to weld the other half of the side panel into place....then pressure test the tank for leaks at the welds.
Last edited by doorgunner; Nov 2, 2015 at 09:01 PM.
You got this Tony ....
One step ( or piece ) at a time ....
Dont stop or im going to pass you up , lol ... i received a big shipment in of parts , im fixing to dive in to try to finish !!
You got this Tony ....
One step ( or piece ) at a time ....
Dont stop or im going to pass you up , lol ... i received a big shipment in of parts , im fixing to dive in to try to finish !!
JUST GREAT! NOW I HAVE TO DRILL AND SLOT MY ROTORS!
DG - First let me say your bumper work is phenomenal! I am amazed! Makes me want to invite you up here to help me on my glass work. If you are a "ROOKIE" I am just a newborn! The work on my Vette isn't all that difficult especially compared to what you are doing. Mostly cracks and minor repairs - no modifications but I am not sure I can do it. What you are doing is just amazing! Second your gas tank is tremendous! Love the idea and am thinking you could market it! Let me also say I am so enraged about what happened to Blake. I am sure that others on the Forum that believe the same. I can not imagine the grief that comes with it and the burden you bear daily that comes with it. But I know Someone who was murdered by His own family, and He says to you "Come unto Me and I will give you rest". He knows and understands, and I trust you can find relief from Him. Lastly I will continue to pray for your father-in-law. I am thankful that the surgery has gone well and trust he will continue to improve. Keep up the good work and know we are here with you and for you! Now tell me to get my rear out to the garage and get some work done on my Vette!
The new fuel tank parts are in sections to make welding easier. I will use a hole saw to fit the sending unit into the round plate with machine screws.....then attach the assembly to the tank with machine screws. This will give me an access hole in the bottom of the tank in case it ever needs cleaning because of "trash or bad fuel". The two baffles with be extra support for "rear end collisions" and also to prevent "slosh" so the fuel gauge will be accurate. I will add a return line port and filler neck when the tank is test-fitted between the frame rails. The tank will hold the same amount of fuel, but will be hidden from view/no "under-hang"............
DG, do you have a metal brake or did you have the tank pieces bent for you at a metal shop? That tank is going to look great. I admire your creativity and fabrication skills. As others have mentioned here before, you really need to stop calling yourself a 'rookie'!
I like your modification to the storage area, and your custom gas tank.
You are definitely making it your own.
Nicely done.
Thanks Tomkin! Same number of gallons/slim shape.
Originally Posted by Majoho
DG, do you have a metal brake or did you have the tank pieces bent for you at a metal shop? That tank is going to look great. I admire your creativity and fabrication skills. As others have mentioned here before, you really need to stop calling yourself a 'rookie'!
I had a shop bend the metal for me/my bench-mounted sheetmetal brake cannot bend 11 gauge metal. The shop suggested that I go with a two-piece tank rather than a 4-piece tank to reduce the amount of welding that I will do.
Originally Posted by derekderek
That looks like a standard marine gas tank. All are custom made to fit the dimensions the cust wants.
That's it! I wanted thicker sheet metal/same gauge as frame....... because the tanks sits between the frame rails now, rather than above the rails.
ANNNNNNNNNNND.....it's raining again....so I'll work on welding the tank until we get some sunny "fiberglassing weather" down here!
Last edited by doorgunner; Oct 31, 2015 at 02:38 PM.
I FORCED myself into the garage! It didn't take long for two hours of notching and welding to go by.
I notched the two baffle plates at the bottom to help the tank fill faster.........
A wooden yardstick cut into 7" long sections did a good job of keeping the top/bottom panels from drawing together while welding the baffles. The 3-bend wall section is standing next to the tank.....
I left a 3/4" air-gap between the baffles and the tank top (on the right side) to help "burp" the tank when re-fueling..............
That's it for tonight. I will make a diagram of the round plate tonight. It needs a 1/8" pipe plug to drain any contaminated fuel or water...... a 3/8" diameter suction tube to connect the flexible section of fuel line...... a bracket for mounting the sending unit....and 8 mounting holes around the plate for attaching to the bottom of the tank.
(Note to myself: Drill a .343" diameter hole in the plate with a 5/8" diameter by 1/8" deep recess for the sending lead to fit into) 11/2/2015.......did the hole mod.
I'll weld a return line port and vent port to the top wall of the tank when the tank is test-fitted in the frame............I still haven't decided where the filler neck will be installed.
WHEW!
Last edited by doorgunner; Nov 2, 2015 at 09:56 PM.
NOW I HAVE TO DRILL AND SLOT MY ROTORS!
