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The new heavy duty rear crossmember has been drilled and nuts welded in place/slots cut to size/etc......................
Keep it going Tony, looks good and very creative.
R
The rear end of passenger's frame rail BEFORE straightening the crunched end...............
After straightening the crunch.............(the piece of rectangular tube below the frame rail is for a 3" measurement to make sure the rail is level with the driver frame rail)................................... .....
The frame rails are 43 & 7/8"apart........I will pull the passenger rail Inboard 1/8" to get the 43 & 3/4" frame measurement before I weld the crossmember in place.......
That's it for now........Whew!
Keep it going Tony, looks good and very creative.
R
Malcolm Gladwell says it takes 10,000 hours of practice to be an expert, just look at it that way.
I do express some concern that the bit of white stock you are showing probably isn't up to adding sufficient strength to the frame.
Originally Posted by slofut
Yeah......well......I did a review of the last week's posts and didn't find a pic of a white SOCK !
I've been known to get my socks in the pic depending on how fast I took the pic..........
Ohhhhhhh....."STOCK"......now I get it! The white "straightedge"....most of my tools are still in boxes so I grabbed a piece of shelving bracket to check the kink in the frame.
I'll be outta' town until Monday.....I hope to finish the frame mod then........
I added some dimension to the repair pic...........
Last edited by doorgunner; Dec 9, 2016 at 12:19 PM.
Is that 3 inches, normal? Where it's supposed to be?
Thanks for finding my thread for me! I don't have another '68 nearby that I can doublecheck the measurement against. I just took a measurement off the left frame rail since it had very little damage.
I'm about to go outside now and finish the repair on the right/passenger frame rail/then fit the tank and tank-cage into place before welding the fabricated rear crossmember into place.
Last edited by doorgunner; Dec 12, 2016 at 02:58 PM.
I managed to finish the repair on the passenger frame rail.............
3" rise from the horizontal temporary extension...........................
43 3/4" from outside D- rail to outside P-rail..............................
A straightedge shows that the passenger rail is now flush from the frame forward of the wheel to the rear tip of the frame rail....I took the pic through the tail light opening......................
I test-fitted the gas take cage.............................
There is just enough clearance to glue rubber strips where the tank walls and underside rest against the cage supports.................
For some reason there is now 1/2" height difference on the body from left and right tires to fender lips.
I will have to re-level the body from the door pillars rearward to get the door gaps even with the pillars. I can then install the gas tank and cage since the top of the tank fits within 1/4" of the extended cargo floor and I do not want the top of the tank pressed against the cargo floor. It will have to wait until tomorrow.
Last edited by doorgunner; Dec 12, 2016 at 03:32 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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I'm guessing with all the frame straightening you must have raised the body. At least you are able to adjust your body shims easily. Your progress looks great, keep it up!!
I'm guessing with all the frame straightening you must have raised the body. At least you are able to adjust your body shims easily. Your progress looks great, keep it up!!
That's what I thought.....but the straightening was done to the rear of the #4 body mounts on the tapered frame rails. The body has been lifted for several weeks....the passenger rear wheel has probably "crept" inward some from me shifting the rear of the body around to do the frame straightening.
I'll find out what's up this morning/the body was level within 1/8" after replacing all the body mounts last summer.
Last edited by doorgunner; Dec 13, 2016 at 03:55 PM.
I found the problem with the excessive fender-to-tire clearance on the passenger rear tire.........It was the tarp! Once I removed the tarp (AND ADDED 20 PSI TO THE DRIVER FRONT TIRE) all four corners were level again.........
The tank and cage assembly ready to go into place......(old pic)...............
Lifting the tank assembly into place.................
The front brace of the cage is temp- bolted to the differentialcrossmember....(view from passenger wheel well).......
I offset the tank all the way to the passenger side of the frame so the car would sit lower on the passenger's side when parked and level when I get into the driver's seat...............
Well.....it's raining sideways under my mother-in-law's carport now, so I'm finished for the day. I'll position the "new" rear crossmember tomorrow and weld it to the left & right frame rails.
Last edited by doorgunner; Dec 13, 2016 at 04:36 PM.
God help you if you ever have to take it out again!
Wow!
The pics make it look complicated. Four bolts will hold the front of the cage in place at the differential crossmember................and three bolts will hold the rear of the cage in place at the rear crossmember.
It will have the usual supply line, return line, and vent line. Total removal time should be less than 15 minutes.
Now I need to get under the car and fit/weld the rear crossmember in place.
Thanks RR. I fitted the new crossmember in place but only welded one end to the frame rail. We will be at a memorial service so I won't be able to post pics till later tonight.