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Time to experiment with trim pieces...I think I like the polished stainless look. I removed the paint with 400 grit to see if I could get a shine. I'll polish the piece with jeweler's rouge on a cloth buffing wheel and clear-coat it.
If it requires sunglasses to look at it I'll polish all the pieces using the same method
Gunner,
start with finer grits like 2000. Work your way down in numbers, not up. That way you are not creating scratches that were not there in the first place. This is a tip I learned then purchasing paper at the body shop supply store.
Man watching you mess with your doors, reminds me of doing my doors right now. The hardest or say most time consuming thing about these cars if you ask me. Keep up the great work.
Gunner,
start with finer grits like 2000. Work your way down in numbers, not up. That way you are not creating scratches that were not there in the first place. This is a tip I learned then purchasing paper at the body shop supply store.
Thanks Man! I was wondering about extra scratches when removing the enamel gray paint. I'll use a paint remover instead and follow your advice. The buffing wheel/Rouge stuff really brings out the shine....example:
(now I see the "extra scratches you talked about").....
Originally Posted by stingrayiii67
Man watching you mess with your doors, reminds me of doing my doors right now. The hardest or say most time consuming thing about these cars if you ask me. Keep up the great work.
The guys gave me lots of good info about glass adjustment....the passenger door took a month off & on of aggravation to get it to seal.
Using their info the driver door took one hour to get the glass to seal correctly!
NOW I remember why I'm using special flat-head machine screws to hold the door panels on: The panels were in the attic (not a good idea) for about 10 years and warped. Even with them upside down on saw horses with a 50 lb. weight to re-arch them, they would de-arch in a few weeks just enough to pull away from the "tabs" that held them in place.
Since the car is a basketcase restomod, I can live with the flat-head retaining screws, rather than floppy door panels.
BACK to the garage (I misplaced the retaining clips that hold the control rods for the door mechanisms)...I waiting on new ones to arrive. Until then I have the shift console/E-brake/heater-vent cables to install.
Install C3 side window in 30 minutes!There are many stories about how difficult it is to install C3 side windows. After struggling for hours to install my passenger side window, I figured out a sequence that took me only 30 minutes with no helper for the driver side and thought I would share.
This is starting from a bare door for a 1969 early coupe. My windows are dated November and December 1968 and have the short extra rear track that was changed some time during the 1969 model year. The 1969 AIM documents the later configuration, the early configuration is in the 1968 AIM. The procedure should work for both configurations.
If you try to install in a normal fashion with both rollers attached to the window and try to lower the window into already installed tracks, it won't fit. But if you change the assembly order as below, it all goes together smoothly.
1) Install the stainless trim and outer weatherstrip at the top of the door. Loosely install the two anti-rattle bumpers.
2) Install the window regulator, bolt the short lower track loosely to the door, stick the crank on the end so you can easily re-position the window. Slide the metal window track with the 3 attach bolts loosely in place onto the two upper nylon rollers from the bottom. Roll the window down.
3) Prep the window, install the short-rear track (if present) including the rear roller by the rear most bolt only. Tighten to where it can still rotate and point the track down to make it easy to slide in the door. Lightly glue (i used weatherstrip adhesive) the nylon and metal washers per the AIM to the window. Also glue the washer stack and nut for the front roller to the outside of the window (not shown in photo). This makes it MUCH easier to install the window to the door as it holds things in place so you can tighten the nuts with one hand only. Position two spring clamps about 1/3 up the window on each side
4) Slide window into door front first to clear stops, lower rear track through rear clearance hole, slide forward and let rest on clamps. Roll window up and loosely attach the 2 front nuts and washers to the window. Roll the window down to get better access to the nuts. Swing the rear track up and attach the front hole to the rearmost bolt.
5) Attach the front roller. Roll the window midway to give you the most clearance to reach. If you glued the washer and nut stack to the window, you can do this with one hand. Tighten all nuts.
6) Roll the window 2/3 up. Slide the top of the front track to engage the roller, and swing the bottom of the track forward to line it up. You will need to roll the window down to let the track clear the toothed regulator. Slide the rear track in a similar fashion. Bolt tracks in place.
Rivet nuts are installed and flat-head machine screws now hold panel solidly against door frame....
You can see Hex flat-head bolts that hold panel on in pic above.
I need to put a finish coat of Satin Dye over the entire door to cover rub marks/etc from handling panel a number of times.
Last edited by doorgunner; Jun 5, 2024 at 08:00 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
no one but you will ever notice. Or me....and Bob....and john...and maybe the other John. But thats its. Oh ya and Kevin, definitely Kevin. But thats definitely it. Oh and I forgot Gary and his brother Andrew....maybe Kurt and Eric. But thats it. Probably,.... maybe...i think....but dont hold me to it.....
no one but you will ever notice. Or me....and Bob....and john...and maybe the other John. But thats its. Oh ya and Kevin, definitely Kevin. But thats definitely it. Oh and I forgot Gary and his brother Andrew....maybe Kurt and Eric. But thats it. Probably,.... maybe...i think....but dont hold me to it.....
Oh yeah....In THAT CASE I'm gonna post one more pic for you guys to scrutinize....
I got this bad rash in Nam in '71....it's between my....I'm not giving any more hints.
Let me get the camraa........
You guys see if you notice it
I hate the “while you’re at its” I tore my car down as a result of that!
Dave
It all started out great.....the stuff was nice and clean...mostly......
The wiring/etc was already repaired and wrapped by me last year....
The E-brake went into it's spot-I even had the bolts bagged and tagged on the pegboard.....
SOMETHING doesn't feel right......
Next I started testing things...I plug in the blower switch/turn on key/flip switch thru all speeds....NOTHING!
Voltmeter says 13V going in/13V going out...Firewall blower motor has good ground....power wire has 13V....
HMMMMMM...the fan spins by hand but is a bit stiff......I gently HIT the blower motor with a hammer about 5 times......blower starts running....I ain't trusting it
Manual windows....
I'm outta' town and will measure the roller channels "toe-in/out" tomorrow.
The passenger window gave me the most trouble, but it has no droop at the rear...go figure.
One more day of "turtling" thru the bugs and I should be able to reinstall the wheels and drive through the neighborhood....(old pic below)
The front and rear channels were 1/2" wider at the top...I moved each top adjustment toward each other 1/8" which was enough to eliminate binding when rolling the window up. I could have moved them closer but I didn't want the top edge of the glass/weatherstrip fit to get "all crazy".
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
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