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Small problem is the Pass. side not able to plumb with the Driver side. Worst case, new adj. strut rods. Bigger possible problem I found was that after all was done, when I spin the rotors, or the diff, at exactly one 360 degree rotation, both sides ride up about an inch. I tried to post a video of this, but I can't figure out how.
Better description of what happens: I turn the Differential input shaft by hand. Both rotors spin in the same direction, and no tight spots, until the rotor is at almost the full rotation, then I feel a little more resistance, and both rotors start to travel up towards the frame rails. As soon as the rotor passes the 360 degree full rotation, both rotors move back down, and the little bit of increased tension felt while turning the diff input shaft goes away until I near the next full rotation.
My hope is that this is due to either/or/both new u joints, suspension not connected yet. My fear is that it is due to the half shafts installed backwards. When I removed them, I didn't think direction mattered. So no thought was given to mark them. I did keep left and right side separated just in case, but not inboard/outboard side of each.
Anyone know anything about this Please???
Also, the control arm pivot bolts have not been torqued yet.
Last edited by badapplegolf; Feb 12, 2018 at 06:05 PM.
Reason: more info
Update on upwards travel. I took a couple of C clamps and raised the rotors up to the frame simulating actual ride height somewhat. The binding, and rise I was seeing went away. When I spin the diff input shaft at ride height all seems well. So I am a little relieved, but still concerned. While the binding only occurs at the extreme angle the trailing arms hang at while the frame is lifted, I'm thinking that bad roads could cause the same effect. I don't know, something else to keep in mind later when the car is road ready.
Update on upwards travel. I took a couple of C clamps and raised the rotors up to the frame simulating actual ride height somewhat. The binding, and rise I was seeing went away. When I spin the diff input shaft at ride height all seems well. So I am a little relieved, but still concerned. While the binding only occurs at the extreme angle the trailing arms hang at while the frame is lifted, I'm thinking that bad roads could cause the same effect. I don't know, something else to keep in mind later when the car is road ready.
The u-joints on the rear half shafts will hit each other when lifting the wheels off of the ground that high and letting them hang. That is normal
To remove the pitman arm from the original steering box, I used a small 3 prong puller, and just kept adding tension to it over a couple of days. A little penetrant, and eventually it just slid off. The original box only has 60K miles on it. So I didn't want to put any heat on the arm, and possibly melt the seal. I haven't decided if I'm gonna sell the old parts, keep them with the car, or what yet. But everything is in really good condition, so doing my best not to destroy anything.
I picked up an old 396. Not the motor for this car, but it came with a TH400 trans that I will rebuild for the car. I knew the motor was locked up, and prolly only good for scrap metal, but I had a surprise waiting for me.
fully dressed out 396. I had to take all of it just to get the 400 trans bolted to it.
After stripping the all the accessories off, I checked the engine stamp. To my suprise, the engine is out of a 69 Camaro Rally Super Sport. Hmm. This might be worth some extra effort. Time to dig deeper.
I don't even know where all the rust came from, it's huge flakes just laying on top of the heads. The inside of the valve covers don't look like it came from there. I vacuumed up the rust and checked the head stamp. I didn't take a pic of the numbers, but its 338781. Ok, maybe there's something here after all. These are worth trying to save. If I don't use them, someone else will, if they are salvageable. We will see. I'll update later after I get them stripped and cleaned up.
I soaked the heads in phos. acid for a coulple days, and then power washed them. They came out looking alot better, but I'm not qualified to judge them. I didn't take any pics, but they are resting back on the 396 block for now. If anyone wants to take a chance on them, just pay shipping and they are yours.
I've had the new Borg. steering sitting in a box for a while now, time to install it.
I used the original box to mock up the placement. As mentioned in early thread by bazza77, and iwasmenowhesgone, I needed to trim the gussets to make room for the steering box, and idler arm.
The original box fit with just a little hole saw work. But the new Borgeson unit was bigger all around. It required almost the entire gusset to be removed.
I wound up with about a half inch of added gusset. Big waste of time, but oh well. If your gonna run the original steering box, then the gussets are prolly worth the effort. If your gonna change to a larger steering box, then do your homework first, or just be prepared to cut most of it out. I figure any gain is worth it.
new Borg box sitting flush with frame.
You can plainly see whats left of the gusset in this pic.
Drivers side pic of loosely fastened steering linkage. Once I pick up the bolts for the idler arm, I'll do a rough alignment before tightening everything.
Now on to some funny stuff. I somehow missed the fact that the old steering cylinder, would be deleted with the Borgenson unit. I knew it deleted the control valve tho. So only after buying the steering ram rebuild kit, and installing it, and prepping, paint, etc. Did it dawn on me that the steering cylinder needs fluid to work, and with the delete of the control valve, where is it gonna get the needed fluid? Dang it man, like this is not expensive enough as it is. Don't make this silly mistake.
Well, I did build it, so I might as well show how I did it, just in case someone wants to keep theirs original. Although, others have surly done it better than me.
First step I did was clean and paint the cylinder. Then after it had cured, I began the disassembly.
Honestly, the hardest part about this was finding the micro size tips for my C clip pliers. You HAVE to have the small ones, straight would maybe work, but the bent ones worked well.
