Surface Rust on Windshield Frame
Any other suggestions?
The actual POR-15 RUST PREVENTIVE is only available in a can that allows it to be brushed on or sprayed out of a gun.
IF you plan on using the POR-15. It is wise to make sure you get the 'Marine clean' and the 'Acid etch' which are needed in order to prep the steel so the POR-15 will stick as it was designed.
DUB
POR epoxy paint is great...but it is expensive and just "nasty" to work with. Your call....
Last edited by 7T1vette; Nov 9, 2018 at 11:32 PM.
I have used this exact paint on many cars. Most recently on a 30's coupe frame and suspension I am currently restoring. And like it says on the can "Direct To Metal". I get excellent results with it.
Greg
Last edited by Greg; Nov 10, 2018 at 03:33 AM.
Dub and others are talking about the stuff thats only in a brush on, out of a can, i do not believe it can be thinned and sprayed, not sure, it comes in a few colors its like thick honey, smelly nasty to work with and used to boast apply it right over the offending rusty area just brush off the scale, last i looked on their website they didnt say use etching or any primers or even get it too clean, it has to bite into something.
What you are using i believe is and i mean zero offense very expensive rustolum,
I have used the brush on por many times and im just not all tingling over it,
I would use the spray paint you did or cheaper versions and be content.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I have used this exact paint on many cars. Most recently on a 30's coupe frame and suspension I am currently restoring. And like it says on the can "Direct To Metal". I get excellent results with it.
Greg
I know of this paint and I use it and love it but it is NOT the same and the POR-15 stuff in a can like what 'bats' commented on....which is what I was referring to
I called and talked with POR-15 about this aerosol paint and what it can do and I would not use it over rust when I know the other POR-15 product will out perform it if all proper steps are taken in prepping the area for the POR-15 to be applied.
I can say that this aerosol paint can chip easily while the POR-15 in a can is much more chip resistant but it will chip also if chipping is a major concern.
And what I do know about aerosol etch primers or 'direct to metal' paints is that the strength of the acid or alkaline in the paint to allow it to etch are lessen due to if they were actually strong as they need to be ...they would eat through the can. If a person doubts what I am saying. Call SEM and talk to the tech guys there and that is what they told me about there aerosol etch primer.. So it cannot be any different due to the properties of the steel can and what is put in it does not change. Basic chemistry. That is why the really good etch primers are a two-component product where one of those components is in a plastic container. Also....not that it matters...I am sure most people have tool boxes and these tool boxes are painted with a direct to metal paint often times and in time it can being to peel off and show bare steel.
DUB
Yes, I have tried the brush on POR-15 and was not too impressed with the results either. It's messy, slobbery and the finished product looks more suited to a farm tractor than a collector car.
POR-15 spray may just be an expensive Rustoleum, as you put it, but I've found it has excellent adhesion where, like you mentioned, the brush on doesn't always adhere that well, can coat unevenly and leave brush strokes. The spray leaves a nice even finish in a semi-gloss which looks perfect on Corvette or any classic car frame and suspension parts. When dry it is rock hard. And the best part? It is a thousand times easier to work with than the brush on.
Yes, I have tried the brush on POR-15 and was not too impressed with the results either. It's messy, slobbery and the finished product looks more suited to a farm tractor than a collector car.
POR-15 spray may just be an expensive Rustoleum, as you put it, but I've found it has excellent adhesion where, like you mentioned, the brush on doesn't always adhere that well, can coat unevenly and leave brush strokes. The spray leaves a nice even finish in a semi-gloss which looks perfect on Corvette or any classic car frame and suspension parts. When dry it is rock hard. And the best part? It is a thousand times easier to work with than the brush on.

The last project I used it on left out looking like it was dipped. Sprayed two coats as directed and then applied their TOP COAT on top of it.
I do know that you cannot mess around with how your pep it and the surface MUST have the acid applied on it for the duration of time they require....which is often times not easy to do.....and the metal must be completely dry before you apply it.
I guess this product falls in line with many other products used on cars. Some people swear they will never use chemical stripper on a car because they have seen bad results from using it....while other use it all the time with no catastrophic results. Some people will build a wood deck using nails with great results while others who do it have boards popping up. So this appears to be a scenario to use what makes you feel good and what has worked for you. In the end...I guess that all that matters.
DUB
Get some Ospho. Put plastic down to protect the car. Use the Ospho and a metal pot scrubber or steel wool and scrub on that rust and it will clean up to be shiny clean metal. If some spots don't clean, use sandpaper to take off the heavier rust first then scrub it some more. Once clean, paint with your favorite spray can paint.
DUB
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tall-72-a.html
The top frame on my Impala is rusting under the POR15 and that car got rained on once in the last 10 years since the top frame was painted. Doing something to clean off the rust and painting it with proper materials would have stood up better.
The big paint companies could easily make the same product as POR15. Check their catalogs and see how many of the big companies are making a "copycat" product. The fact none of them do should tell you something about how useful it really is.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Nov 11, 2018 at 12:24 AM.
What i have seen happen in these cases is the guys who do not like the product are blamed they didnt use it correctly.
In the case of por its tricky, their instructions for prep range from brush off surfact scale to sand blast to use a marine etcher, saying por needs something to bite into, and about the only thing they say dont do is put it on slick shiny rust free metal.
One suggested use on their page is fill cracks in fiberglass and gel yet never once have i seen any corvette restoration people use it as corvette crack repair,
Heres some quotes,
"I dont believe in hiding rust , sooner or later it will creep out."
"people are fooled because it's shiny . then they swear by it on line . but believe me they will not come back later and admit to the disaster they have ".
"I do believe painting over rust is because they are lazy, or have the "that'll do" attitude"
No reason for me to do all the prep work to pay more for and hope por will work when i can use products made by the big names that do work.
The world is bigger than any one person or one forum lots of great educational infomation out there,
I have read too much bad feedback about por-15 and seen to many fails to gamble on it with my car why take any chances?
I admit i find this discussion ironic, the door does swing both ways....





















