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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 12:51 PM
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Default Surface Rust on Windshield Frame

Replacing some interior trim on my '72 convertible. Windshield frame looks good (see below), but there is surface rust I would like to fix while I am in there. My thoughts were to hand sand the rusty spots, scuff the rest of the metal, clean, mask out, prime with Rustoleum rusty metal primer and then finish with Rustoleum flat black.

Any other suggestions?
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 03:29 PM
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Look into POR-15.
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 04:23 PM
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It is available on eBay in spray cans. Best bang for the buck in rust control paint.
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 06:45 PM
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POR-15 is not available in spray cans. POR-15 has paint that is available in spray cans.

The actual POR-15 RUST PREVENTIVE is only available in a can that allows it to be brushed on or sprayed out of a gun.

IF you plan on using the POR-15. It is wise to make sure you get the 'Marine clean' and the 'Acid etch' which are needed in order to prep the steel so the POR-15 will stick as it was designed.

DUB
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 11:30 PM
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I would wire brush it to remove all loose material and rust that is not adhered well, then treat the surface with a 'rust encapsulator' which will convert the remaining rust to an inert substance which will seal the surface and NOT propagate further as rust. That can act as a primer or you could prime with any good quality primer or epoxy primer. If there is some bare metal left after the rust converter is applied, it would be best to prime the surface with a self-etching primer so that it adheres well to bare metal surfaces.

POR epoxy paint is great...but it is expensive and just "nasty" to work with. Your call....

Last edited by 7T1vette; Nov 9, 2018 at 11:32 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 12:48 AM
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Thr down side to por is if a nick or scratch happens it rusts under it and comes off in sheets seen it happen
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 01:22 AM
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Looks to me like it says POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint.....in a spray can.
I have used this exact paint on many cars. Most recently on a 30's coupe frame and suspension I am currently restoring. And like it says on the can "Direct To Metal". I get excellent results with it.
Greg

Last edited by Greg; Nov 10, 2018 at 03:33 AM.
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 04:35 AM
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The por rust products vary, they even offer their own jb weld type stuff.

Dub and others are talking about the stuff thats only in a brush on, out of a can, i do not believe it can be thinned and sprayed, not sure, it comes in a few colors its like thick honey, smelly nasty to work with and used to boast apply it right over the offending rusty area just brush off the scale, last i looked on their website they didnt say use etching or any primers or even get it too clean, it has to bite into something.

What you are using i believe is and i mean zero offense very expensive rustolum,

I have used the brush on por many times and im just not all tingling over it,
I would use the spray paint you did or cheaper versions and be content.
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 06:07 AM
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Agree with the bats...."very expensive rustoleum". We used POR on the 65 Chevy truck frame.... per their instructions. It faded, chipped, peeled, and we ended up re-painting it with Rustoleum anyway.
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 07:17 AM
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Jim,
Hope you guys doing great,

I bet you a big gulp if you asked the por people about your experience...it of course in their "opinion" would be all your fault


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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg
Looks to me like it says POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint.....in a spray can.
I have used this exact paint on many cars. Most recently on a 30's coupe frame and suspension I am currently restoring. And like it says on the can "Direct To Metal". I get excellent results with it.
Greg
Greg,

I know of this paint and I use it and love it but it is NOT the same and the POR-15 stuff in a can like what 'bats' commented on....which is what I was referring to

I called and talked with POR-15 about this aerosol paint and what it can do and I would not use it over rust when I know the other POR-15 product will out perform it if all proper steps are taken in prepping the area for the POR-15 to be applied.

I can say that this aerosol paint can chip easily while the POR-15 in a can is much more chip resistant but it will chip also if chipping is a major concern.

And what I do know about aerosol etch primers or 'direct to metal' paints is that the strength of the acid or alkaline in the paint to allow it to etch are lessen due to if they were actually strong as they need to be ...they would eat through the can. If a person doubts what I am saying. Call SEM and talk to the tech guys there and that is what they told me about there aerosol etch primer.. So it cannot be any different due to the properties of the steel can and what is put in it does not change. Basic chemistry. That is why the really good etch primers are a two-component product where one of those components is in a plastic container. Also....not that it matters...I am sure most people have tool boxes and these tool boxes are painted with a direct to metal paint often times and in time it can being to peel off and show bare steel.

DUB
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by The13Bats
What you are using i believe is and i mean zero offense very expensive rustolum,
No offense taken brother.

Yes, I have tried the brush on POR-15 and was not too impressed with the results either. It's messy, slobbery and the finished product looks more suited to a farm tractor than a collector car.
POR-15 spray may just be an expensive Rustoleum, as you put it, but I've found it has excellent adhesion where, like you mentioned, the brush on doesn't always adhere that well, can coat unevenly and leave brush strokes. The spray leaves a nice even finish in a semi-gloss which looks perfect on Corvette or any classic car frame and suspension parts. When dry it is rock hard. And the best part? It is a thousand times easier to work with than the brush on.
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg
No offense taken brother.

Yes, I have tried the brush on POR-15 and was not too impressed with the results either. It's messy, slobbery and the finished product looks more suited to a farm tractor than a collector car.
POR-15 spray may just be an expensive Rustoleum, as you put it, but I've found it has excellent adhesion where, like you mentioned, the brush on doesn't always adhere that well, can coat unevenly and leave brush strokes. The spray leaves a nice even finish in a semi-gloss which looks perfect on Corvette or any classic car frame and suspension parts. When dry it is rock hard. And the best part? It is a thousand times easier to work with than the brush on.
Yep, you pretty much summed up how i feel about the brush on product,

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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 11:04 AM
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Well until I have catastrophic results from the POR-15. I still use it and have...so far...nothing but with great results. I use foam brushes and or spray it. This stuff as for those who have used it can be messy but it flows like crazy which is why in some scenarios the foam brushes I use leave the finish looking rather well. I can hang up control arms and brush it on with the foam brush and you do not see any evidence that it was brushed on. Sorry...no photos available at this time to prove what I am saying is true. I would have to search for them.

The last project I used it on left out looking like it was dipped. Sprayed two coats as directed and then applied their TOP COAT on top of it.

I do know that you cannot mess around with how your pep it and the surface MUST have the acid applied on it for the duration of time they require....which is often times not easy to do.....and the metal must be completely dry before you apply it.

I guess this product falls in line with many other products used on cars. Some people swear they will never use chemical stripper on a car because they have seen bad results from using it....while other use it all the time with no catastrophic results. Some people will build a wood deck using nails with great results while others who do it have boards popping up. So this appears to be a scenario to use what makes you feel good and what has worked for you. In the end...I guess that all that matters.

DUB
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 12:04 PM
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Heres just some more view points and personal experences

pros talk about por
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 01:10 PM
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IMO, POR15 is overpriced junk. It's come off in sheets on me like The13Bats posted. Tried it a few times on a daily driver using their prep instructions and it simply didn't work.

Get some Ospho. Put plastic down to protect the car. Use the Ospho and a metal pot scrubber or steel wool and scrub on that rust and it will clean up to be shiny clean metal. If some spots don't clean, use sandpaper to take off the heavier rust first then scrub it some more. Once clean, paint with your favorite spray can paint.
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 05:44 PM
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Clearly there are some people who do not like it and that is fine by me. I have no financial interest in that company so if you like it...fine. If you don't, that is fine also. Does not change the facts of what I have experienced with it. So until I see a problem. I will use it in isolated areas when needed due to the parts I have used it on...the POR-15 has been on there longer than when that thread on the site linked above was started....and they are holding up and not in worse condition if I had done nothing to them at all..

DUB
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Old Nov 10, 2018 | 06:10 PM
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This member made a video of windshield frame prep and paint....

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tall-72-a.html
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Old Nov 11, 2018 | 12:20 AM
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You could use almost anything on a car that never sees anything but sunny weather and it would stand up decently for a long time. But that doesn't make it a good product.

The top frame on my Impala is rusting under the POR15 and that car got rained on once in the last 10 years since the top frame was painted. Doing something to clean off the rust and painting it with proper materials would have stood up better.

The big paint companies could easily make the same product as POR15. Check their catalogs and see how many of the big companies are making a "copycat" product. The fact none of them do should tell you something about how useful it really is.

Last edited by lionelhutz; Nov 11, 2018 at 12:24 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2018 | 02:20 AM
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Actually lionel the por website says UV will ruin por and it must be top coated, so por doesnt do well in sunny weather either.

What i have seen happen in these cases is the guys who do not like the product are blamed they didnt use it correctly.
In the case of por its tricky, their instructions for prep range from brush off surfact scale to sand blast to use a marine etcher, saying por needs something to bite into, and about the only thing they say dont do is put it on slick shiny rust free metal.
One suggested use on their page is fill cracks in fiberglass and gel yet never once have i seen any corvette restoration people use it as corvette crack repair,

Heres some quotes,
"Lets just say that POR15 is for people who their motto is : "That'll do"

"I dont believe in hiding rust , sooner or later it will creep out."

"people are fooled because it's shiny . then they swear by it on line . but believe me they will not come back later and admit to the disaster they have ".

"I do believe painting over rust is because they are lazy, or have the "that'll do" attitude"
I AM lazy or at least my health issues make my time very valuable to me,
No reason for me to do all the prep work to pay more for and hope por will work when i can use products made by the big names that do work.

The world is bigger than any one person or one forum lots of great educational infomation out there,
I have read too much bad feedback about por-15 and seen to many fails to gamble on it with my car why take any chances?

I admit i find this discussion ironic, the door does swing both ways....




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