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Old Jun 6, 2023 | 10:36 PM
  #641  
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Well now the boat has a clean bill of health, it's time for me to catch back up on my other Stingray. Tonight I worked on some details that I needed to finish on the SBC so it could be completed. Some of the bolt holes in the oil pan didn't line up and needed to be wallowed out (others had to do this in the reviews I read too). I pulled the pan, and made some small enlargements with my dremel so it would fit and seal properly.

bolts not lining up


After holes enlarged and bolts torqued down


Don't like this gap between the seal and pan - what say you?

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Old Jun 6, 2023 | 10:51 PM
  #642  
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Next job this evening was to work on getting the original Winters intake cleaned up so I could install it. I had already degreased it, but had ordered a product called "AlumaBright" to attempt to get it looking much nicer.

Here's some before pics of the intake:




I followed the instructions on the Aluma Bright, diluted with water at 1:1, and the sprayed it all over the manifold and let it soak for a minute, followed by a rinse and pressure washing. Below are the results after three treatments:





While it's a big improvement, it's certainly not restored and as good as I'd like it. I might try some more, while working it with a brass brush to see if I can get it better. Any other suggestions? Worst case scenario I could always send it to the powder coater - but it just won't look quite the same as original, but would be super clean!

Below is what it looks like on the engine currently:




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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 05:22 AM
  #643  
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Originally Posted by Arg0413
Well now the boat has a clean bill of health, it's time for me to catch back up on my other Stingray. Tonight I worked on some details that I needed to finish on the SBC so it could be completed. Some of the bolt holes in the oil pan didn't line up and needed to be wallowed out (others had to do this in the reviews I read too). I pulled the pan, and made some small enlargements with my dremel so it would fit and seal properly.

bolts not lining up


After holes enlarged and bolts torqued down


Don't like this gap between the seal and pan - what say you?
Wrong oil pan seal. They changed the pan gap abot 1975 and newer i believe. I found that out the hard way as well on a expensive Aftermarket pan

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Jun 7, 2023 at 05:31 AM.
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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 05:27 AM
  #644  
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I wouldnt dilute it that much. I bought some air craft aluminum cleaner and kept it pretty potent and soaked my wheels in a garbage can of it. Did a L71 intake that way as well. Dont use a brass brush unless its a very soft brass brush. Most are steel with a brass coating.
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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 07:30 AM
  #645  
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Default intake manifold

Use Eagle one raw aluminum mag wheel cleaner. Wheel Cleaner, Etching MAG EGO E1TMG23 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)
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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 12:30 PM
  #646  
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Originally Posted by Arg0413
I have a bad habit of taking on more projects lol but this one just needed a little tune up and clean up, and I put the RV for sale to offset it!
Yes indeed, I do have a type: SBC V8 Stingrays! And this one hauls *** and drinks gas like the other one! lol
I made her think she had to twist my arm to buy her a boat This is my first boat to own, but I've been boating and on boats my whole life. Backing this into every dock we stopped at while the bow crab walked in the current and my wife worked the stern was certainly a learning experience for both of us! LOL but we had a blast, and are looking forward to the many new adventures ahead of us! Any tips you have i'll take as i'm on the learning curve currently with this one.
Always watch your depth gauge and use the trim to keep your prop up high when idling around in shallow water.
Those out drives hang down pretty far under the hull.
The slightest ding in a prop will cause the worst vibration and repairs on the drive unit will make you take out a second mortgage on your home.
Replace the water pump impeller as regular maintenance and never run the engine without water running through.
Stay sober, every major injury and fatal boating accident I responded to involved alcohol and or drugs.
Have fun!
The best years of my life were with my kids and family out on the water.
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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 12:36 PM
  #647  
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Rescue is correct, and I would put some washers under those pan bolts.
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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 12:50 PM
  #648  
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
Wrong oil pan seal. They changed the pan gap abot 1975 and newer i believe. I found that out the hard way as well on a expensive Aftermarket pan
Originally Posted by OldCarBum
Rescue is correct, and I would put some washers under those pan bolts.
Well this makes sense! Easy fix! Thanks!
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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 12:54 PM
  #649  
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Originally Posted by OldCarBum
Always watch your depth gauge and use the trim to keep your prop up high when idling around in shallow water.
Those out drives hang down pretty far under the hull.
The slightest ding in a prop will cause the worst vibration and repairs on the drive unit will make you take out a second mortgage on your home.
Replace the water pump impeller as regular maintenance and never run the engine without water running through.
Stay sober, every major injury and fatal boating accident I responded to involved alcohol and or drugs.
Have fun!
The best years of my life were with my kids and family out on the water.
Great tips, I appreciate it! Didn't know propeller dings were that serious - can you feel those vibrations or should the prop be routinely inspected?

Actually had a friend recently in a bad boating accident , and the passenger didn't survive. While I don't think alcohol was involved, it was certainly sobering for everyone to see such a tragic accident. I'm used to being a passenger on the boat and being able to throw back cold ones, and naturally I wasn't going to do this behind the wheel and endanger my wife (or others) so my solution was non-alcoholic Corona's with fresh cut limes: got to enjoy cold beer, and stay alert and sober!
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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 01:49 PM
  #650  
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You should check your prop after every use.
You can easily see any dings and you will notice the slightest ding will create vibration, actually it’s a cavitation, on plane and acceleration.
You’ll also notice a loss of performance almost like the engine needs a tune.
The engine is fine you’re noticing the loss of power due to the damaged prop.
A big dent or bent blade and you’re done.

Things to keep with you for a weekend outing, extra water pump impeller, extra prop, extra hull plug.
Always double check that your plugs are in the hull before you launch, you’d be surprised how many boats sink at a launch ramp.
Never start the engine without first turning on the bulge blower, gas fumes build up under the engine cover and the ignition can ignite them, especially after refueling.
Never use automotive carburetors or ignition parts on any boat with a covered engine.
People always thought I was paranoid but everyone in my boat wore a good quality ski vest.
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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 09:59 PM
  #651  
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Originally Posted by OldCarBum
You should check your prop after every use.
You can easily see any dings and you will notice the slightest ding will create vibration, actually it’s a cavitation, on plane and acceleration.
You’ll also notice a loss of performance almost like the engine needs a tune.
The engine is fine you’re noticing the loss of power due to the damaged prop.
A big dent or bent blade and you’re done.

Things to keep with you for a weekend outing, extra water pump impeller, extra prop, extra hull plug.
Always double check that your plugs are in the hull before you launch, you’d be surprised how many boats sink at a launch ramp.
Never start the engine without first turning on the bulge blower, gas fumes build up under the engine cover and the ignition can ignite them, especially after refueling.
Never use automotive carburetors or ignition parts on any boat with a covered engine.
People always thought I was paranoid but everyone in my boat wore a good quality ski vest.
So I certainly inspected my prop this evening after your advice : It's in mint condition

I have an Alpha drive, and the water impeller is changed like an outdrive, unlike the Bravo or Volvo outdrives. Good news is, my buddy that I bought it from pulled the out drive to change the steering pin 20hrs ago and also changed anything and everything that could be done at that point: bellows, gimble bearing, water impeller, fluids, power trim, etc. So I should be in good shape, and going to put in a new impeller every winter for safety.

Engine is the 5.7 EFI, so no carb to deal with . It's basically just an SBC truck engine with TBI, so it's super stout and simple. I've heard horror stories of boats blowing up due to no blower, that's scary stuff!
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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 10:34 PM
  #652  
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On your intake manifold, I would just paint it with duplicolor cast aluminum engine paint. It resists stains much better than bare aluminum, and is durable enough. That is what I have on this intake below.



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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 10:40 PM
  #653  
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Originally Posted by wolfk
On your intake manifold, I would just paint it with duplicolor cast aluminum engine paint. It resists stains much better than bare aluminum, and is durable enough. That is what I have on this intake below.


Man your engine looks fantastic! I like this idea, now I have the intake completely cleaned and stripped down, this is an easy solution to make it look perfect. Going to have to try this out!
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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 11:15 PM
  #654  
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Well I tried one more attmept with the Aluma Bright, and didn't dilute it this time: barely any difference from what I did last night. Below is where we sit after the treatment tonight . I do like the above idea to use cast aluminum paint, and I'm going to try it out if I can find some locally.



Next part I decided to mess with was the steering box. It spent a lot of time in the parts washer with a metal brush to get all the grease and gunk off, but still needed a lot of work. The wire wheel on my 13K RPM grinder was able to strip the part down to bare metal. After a thorough degreasing and cleaning, it received a few new paints of satin black in anticipation of being installed back in the car soon.


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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 11:21 PM
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my 81 alum intake was factory painted
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Old Jun 7, 2023 | 11:48 PM
  #656  
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Originally Posted by Arg0413
So I certainly inspected my prop this evening after your advice : It's in mint condition

I have an Alpha drive, and the water impeller is changed like an outdrive, unlike the Bravo or Volvo outdrives. Good news is, my buddy that I bought it from pulled the out drive to change the steering pin 20hrs ago and also changed anything and everything that could be done at that point: bellows, gimble bearing, water impeller, fluids, power trim, etc. So I should be in good shape, and going to put in a new impeller every winter for safety.

Engine is the 5.7 EFI, so no carb to deal with . It's basically just an SBC truck engine with TBI, so it's super stout and simple. I've heard horror stories of boats blowing up due to no blower, that's scary stuff!
Sounds like a good and well maintained set up.
You should have a blast.
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Old Jun 10, 2023 | 09:33 AM
  #657  
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Everything looks great; nice work!

Can I make one suggestion - since the steering gear is out of the car, check out Bair's Corvettes (http://www.bairscorvette.com/) and then send your gear to them for a rebuild.

Here are before and after pics from our 1972 LT-1. What the pics don't show is how much better the car's steering response was - a lot of free play in the steering wheel disappeared.

IIRC, the cost (3 years ago, mind you) was around $200. (I know, I know...I'm 'spending your money'. But, since it's out, right...?? )

Larry



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Old Jun 16, 2023 | 09:48 AM
  #658  
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Originally Posted by Catfish4818
Everything looks great; nice work!

Can I make one suggestion - since the steering gear is out of the car, check out Bair's Corvettes (http://www.bairscorvette.com/) and then send your gear to them for a rebuild.

Here are before and after pics from our 1972 LT-1. What the pics don't show is how much better the car's steering response was - a lot of free play in the steering wheel disappeared.

IIRC, the cost (3 years ago, mind you) was around $200. (I know, I know...I'm 'spending your money'. But, since it's out, right...?? )

Larry



That's certainly something to consider for that price! My steering was really tight - think it should still be done while I'm at it?
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Old Jun 16, 2023 | 10:00 AM
  #659  
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If the steering wheel was "tight" you are probably good to go.
I have seen 3-4 inches of movement at the steering wheel on a loose box, with no response from the car. Wanders just like an old truck.
On a really good box, the car responds with 1/4" of steering wheel movement.
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Old Jun 16, 2023 | 10:01 AM
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I gathered some parts and got back onto the final details of finishing my engine. I decided to try the cast aluminum engine paint on my manifold to get the new look I wanted:

Here's some before pics, this is the best I could get it after degreasing and aluma bright





Here's my results, i'm quite happy:






My next issue to address was the water pump clearing my timing cover. This timing cover is needed because it has a built in adjustable button for the roller cam , so I decided to use 1/8" shims to make it work. I know I'm going to have to shim all my other pulleys, but engine is on a stand and shims are cheap!

Found these on Amazon: nice quality and came with decent gaskets



Cam button adjusted and locked in (yeah I gotta find some timing cover bolts today!)



mocked up and beautiful clearance!



Starting to look like a finished engine!





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