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Plugs are such a pain to change, I'd recommend NGK iridium plugs. They will last 100K miles. With an HEI distributor, gap them to .040". You don't need a super hot spark for that engine....gapping them more would just put unnecessary stress on the ignitions system.
Hi-temp insulator sleeves for the plugs close to the headers would be a good thing.
There have been a LOT of changes made to that car. It would cost a fortune to get it back to "original" condition. Just change what is necessary to start. Get it into good, safe operational state and enjoy it a while. Then you can fine-tune changes as you see fit. The engine you have will provide plenty of enjoyment, once tuned properly.
Thanks for the advice! If NGK makes that plug in a shorty, I’ll run with that, I’m also in the middle of replacing the positive battery cable from the battery to the starter, also replacing the engine and front lamp harness, I have plenty of stuff to keep me busy!
So I have an update on my progress, I have removed all of the front of engine components and clean up the engine block to get ready for some paint.
I have also removed the headers for a wrap, my main question is, I've been searching on the forum for some advise on wrapping headers, haven't had much luck,
I've purchased some titanium wrap and high temp paint for the headers and the wrap, any advice on this process would be appreciated.
I would advise against wrapping them as that can cause moisture buildup and premature wear on them. Instead I would look at getting them ceramic coated, which can reduce under hood temperatures while still having a polished finish.
I’m about to paint the engine in my ‘76 in the car myself. I’d appreciate if you post your methods and results.
Getting the headers coated is a little out of my budget, I plan on painting them first with high temp black, then wrapping them.
As far as painting the engine, I've just cleaned it the best I could with degreaser and a few shots of brake cleaner, then do the best I can
with a paint brush, it won't perfect, but better than it is now, I will be doing all of this without pulling the engine. currently waiting for the weather to break, so it might be a while before I paint.
I've wrapped a lot of pipes for customers. WOW, you couldn't pay me to destroy one of my vehicles that way!
Wrap pipes, wait 2 years. Check on pipes, Paper thin! Wait 3-4 years, start with trying to repair cracks and holes. Throw arms up in the air and purchase new pipes!
Poor man always pays twice!
Thanks for your replies and information, I gather from the feedback that I shouldn't wrap the pipes? I'm just trying to understand why people do wrap their pipes if it's a bad thing.
Does the wrap actually cut down on the engine bay temperature that much and increase horsepower?
Thanks,
Thanks for your replies and information, I gather from the feedback that I shouldn't wrap the pipes? I'm just trying to understand why people do wrap their pipes if it's a bad thing.
Does the wrap actually cut down on the engine bay temperature that much and increase horsepower?
Thanks,
Race cars wrap their pipes because the insulation helps HP a tiny bit. They don't have to worry about rusty headers, or wet, stinky insulation, and your car doesn't run at 7000 RPM all day.
If you want that look, go ahead! It does look cool on certain cars. But for a street driven car, you won't notice the performance gains.
Thanks!
The headers I have aren't brand new by any means, showing signs of surface rust, so I may go ahead and paint and wrap them since I spent the money on it, then save up the money for those stainless steel headers, they look pretty sharp!
Thanks again for the info!
Here's what I found on another site......It looks like it's a more modern replacement engine and better than the L48, but not by much. Key thing is, get it running give it a proper tune including carb and ignition and see what you have....It might keep you happy for a couple of years.
10066036...350...........4 bolt main ...Goodwrench crate motor, 2-piece rear seal, "Hecho en Mexico"
Part #10067353 Brand New Goodwrench 350 Engine 1971-1985 Car and light Truck Replacement Engine. This engine remains our most popular largest selling crate engine of all times. This is a great entry level replacement engine for older cars and trucks, and a great basic street rod engine. All of the parts in this engine are Brand New. 350 Cubic inches 4.00" Bore, 3.47" stroke 8.5:1 compression ratio. 250 HP @4300 rpm 350 ft. lbs of torque @ 3600 rpm ( These Numbers obtained with a Quadrajet Carb,1 5/8" headers , and an Edelbrock Performer intake part # 2101) Engine consists of the following parts: Block -part # 10066034, casting # 10066036
2 piece rear main seal 4 bolt main
Crankshaft- # 3932444
Nodular Iron 1985 and older flywheel bolt pattern. Powdered Metal Connecting rods- # 10108688 Cast Aluminum Pistons-#12514101 G.M. High Volume Pump Oil Pump- part # 12555284 Hydralic Flat tappet Camshaft- #14088839 Intake Lift-.383" Exhaust Lift-.401"
I have a question, I have Vortec heads on this block, given the information above it has a flat tappet cam, however, I have seen where Vortec heads are usually set up with a roller cam, Is there a way to tell whether it has a roller or flat tappet cam without tearing into the engine?
Thank you,
People put vortec heads of flat tappet short blocks all the time. The easiest/least obtrusive way would probably be to pull a rocker arm and pushrod and look down into the lifter valley for tie bars on the lifters, or better yet try fishing one out with a magnet to see if it has a roller. Either that or pulling the distributor and seeing if it has a melonized gear, assuming whoever did the roller conversion did it correctly.
If you’re not sure when you’re changing your oil I would error on the side of caution and use an oil with a high ZDDP content or a supplement.
I have a question, I have Vortec heads on this block, given the information above it has a flat tappet cam, however, I have seen where Vortec heads are usually set up with a roller cam, Is there a way to tell whether it has a roller or flat tappet cam without tearing into the engine?
Thank you,
Post a photo of the timing cover. There might be a clue behind the water pump (may be hard to see, though).
FWIW, Vortec heads mean limited intake selections. They are not direcly swappable with C3 contemporary heads.
Thanks Piersonpie! I probably won't go to that extent, i'm glad you mentioned the type of oil to use, that was going to be my next question about the oil.
Bikespace...post #63 of this thread I have a picture of the front of engine.
Thanks Piersonpie! I probably won't go to that extent, i'm glad you mentioned the type of oil to use, that was going to be my next question about the oil.
Bikespace...post #63 of this thread I have a picture of the front of engine.
Thanks! My VPN was doing the "no photos for you!" thing again.
That looks like a smooth timing cover, with no indication of a cam button, so it likely does not have a retro-roller cam. It also has the pre-77 wide-style engine stamp pad. Were you ever able to get the numbers off of that pad? I'm not questioning the GM Goodwrench replacement ID, but that would help confirm it. I think roller lifters started in 87 or 88, which is past the likely build date of your engine. But your heads are later than that.
All I'm saying is, your engine seems to have a mix of parts, so I'd question everything. The only way to be sure is to pull a lifter, or the timing cover.
If I missed it in the thread, my apologies. But the numbers here might provide another clue.
Thanks for your input! Its definitely been a challenge to figure out what I actually have! Funny thing is the sides of the block below the heads and the oil pan is painted corporate blue....transmission is a TH 350.
My plan is to paint it all Chevy Orange, don't care if its not the correct color for the year.
