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I have foam sticks in there. I also have wilwoods on all 4 corners, and coil overs...and double a arms I built mine a lot like yours
My ebrake solution will be a pinion mounted disc and a spot caliper. I'll have to incorporate a pulley in the disc to drive the rear end pump.
I wish I could move the engine but sadly I can't...not without getting a different transmission and I already have so much time invested in this whole deal..I'm sticking with it. Also the downpipes are really close to the brake master already, setting the engine back would make it impossible to mount, even if the engine is lowered.
As for the powdercoating, I already have the coating so it'll be easy..just drop off the parts and frame at the friendly neighbourhood powdercoaters
Engine position was just a comment, repositioning at this point would be starting all over. Regarding E-brake, spot caliper = a small additional caliper? A pulley in the caliper to drive the rear pump.... sorry you lost me............
I never heard anything back from the guy in Sweden/Norway? who had reciepts and was claiming he had an original aluminum 70 LS7 blocked car, I was hoping it was true.
JUGHEAD- you need to get that cupholder issue addressed.............
check the wilwood site, they have a spot caliper (precision brakes also has it), it's just a small mechanical lever type caliper. The nice thing is they have spacers so you can adjsut the caliper width.
What you do is, remove the pinion yoke from the diff and either weld a rotor on there or bolt it on..you could place it where the caps go or you could use longer bolts that stick out the back and secure it with nuts. There's a hot rod guy selling a kit for the pre 80 vettes (iron diff).
I have a rear end pump there (single stage pump) for the autobahn to make sure the diff doesn't get too hot and I need a way to drive it..so I figured a combo parking brake rotor / drive pulley would be neat. Just a rotor w/ a v groove. the rotor can be solid, no need for a vented one.
Here's the pump, maybe this will give you an idea on how I'm going to do it. BTW, it's a C4 Dana 44 so it doesn't have a C3 type pinion mount, it's originally set up for a c-beam so I made my own mounting system.
FYI, remember there is not much Vette back there......will the Wilwood caliper fit on the brake rotor? They told me "no" or are you suggesting as you did putting it on the drive shaft, interesting combining it with a diff pump. I would like to add coolers to my diff and tranny eventually.
CLICK>>>
Thanks for the link Marck, I'll put some thought to this one
As to halfshafts, they are custom one offs, great until I need to replace one, even the rear suspension is only 50% the Greenwood 5 point, the rest is based off it but much heavier duty.
I love this car but anything I break I have to make, and I'm not quite as handy as you.
Last edited by 73-84 IMSA Widebody; Sep 23, 2006 at 03:17 PM.
marck, congrads this is a big step. if your body and paint work is half of what your design and fabrication skills are, i cant wait to see the final product. ive told you before, with your insane documentation you should submit the completed story to every major magazine. your already famous here but soon you can take over the world!!
Marck your a big fellow, do you ever wonder about your head and the top loop of the roll cage? From the pictures it hangs down away from the Tee roofs. A vet doesn't have that much head room to begin with and with the top bar down 2 or 3 inches it makes for that much less head clearance.
Mine is totally invisible from the sides and front. You upper bar will hang down into the windshield area.
This is a side shot of mine and it is really tucked up right against the Tee roof
Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Sep 23, 2006 at 04:38 PM.
I know about head clearance, the body just sits on the mounts in the pc, nothing is bolted down so it'll come down a notch (and thus the bar will move up). I'm not going to use the stock seats, I'll install some race buckets but I want kirkeys and they don't sell those here so it probably means shipping from the US which also means they will about double in price. with race buckets you can have your but a mere inch or so from the floorboard where the stock seats you're talking inches.
I dind't fit too well in the stock interior also, I kept bangin my head on the halo.
If I still have too little room with race buckets I'm cutting out the floor pans and make my own and lower them
I like how you made yours to follow the contour of the roof.
Very nice Norval, the contour is nice and I like how the braces are "pinned", my cage is extra heavy duty and was built in the 70's for a guy who 5'6", I'm 6'1". It takes some gymnastics just to get in and out, we also had to reposition the seat back and peddle assembly forward to get a bit of leg room. The seat is adjustable but mounted 1" off the "lowered" floor. My frontupper winshield cage bar appears to positioned about where Marck's is with a 3' wide racing mirror and is not an issue, eventually I'll have a silver vinyl band acroos that upper section of the wind shield anyway.
Some dang sweet cars...............
TT,Twinnie, Marc I am SO jealous of your set up there, you been working on that car one way or another for over ten years now, it was underway when we cyber-met on the old UUnet Alt Autos Corvette group....been a while....been more than just a couple of years, and I sure am glad you have something on the ground to show for all your time, persevearance, EFFORTS, and most of all SKILL....
Job well done man, serious, I NEVER expected to hear of YOU finishing that car, but it looks as if you are OVER the serious work/hump.....
the reason for the above comment is that about 90% or better of the guys who actually start a project of even 20% that complicated, never get close to finishing it....and the project sits forever, as life goes on, and time/money/space requirement take over....
you continue having fun, there are only two of your types left currently on this forum, you and Norval....seems the rest drop in and out OR have changed handles and I have not noticed.....