I did a dry fit and it appeared to. The pipe was centered in the rear filler panel opening, left to right. Vertically, I think it will work. Everything was still moving about, nothing is secured yet.

 

Post a pick when you get it firmed up a bit in the back. Ecklers makes some SS square 2.5" exits.

 

The system I got was supposed to be from the headers back. Now I am hearing the system is 18" short from reaching the collectors? (I could have fun with this)

AND you guys got hats?

 

I guess it a back of the header system not header back.

 

quote:
Part Number: PYE-SCC10R
Exit Quantity: Dual
Exit Location: Rear
System Material: Stainless steel
System Finish: Natural
System Style: Header-back
Muffler Included: Yes
Hardware Included: Yes
Intermediate Pipe Diameter (in): 2.500 in.
Tailpipe Diameter (in): 2.500 in.
Tip Included: Yes
Quantity: Sold as a kit.
Notes: Includes X-pipe.

Exhaust System, Header-Back, Includes Race Pro Mufflers, Stainless Steel, Chevy, Corvette 1968-82, Kit

1. Begin by placing the vehicle on a lift or four jack stands at maximum
height to aid in an easier installation. To help ease the installation, pre-fit all the components into a complete system on your garage floor, using the diagram provided.
2. Remove the existing exhaust system from the headers or exhaust manifolds back. You can also remove any hanger mounted to the frame as your new kit includes custom rubber blocks and wire form style hangers.
3. Now it’s time to install your new components. Begin by installing your new one piece direct fit x-pipe through the holes in you transmission cross-member.
The rear legs must sit level with the center section of the rear. These should not point towards the ground. The flared and slotted end should protrude through the
front of the cross-member just enough to add clamps. You will need to support the rear section of the x-pipe while installing the rest of the components. The short “S” bends will slide into the front of the x-pipe, allowing for the attachment of headers
or down-pipes. Some header applications require custom collectors due to the header not ending square and parallel to the car. For proper system fit, your collectors must run parallel with your rocker panels.
4. Next, install the two mid-pipes. They are designed to run just under the leaf springs and curve towards the side of the car. They have a wire form welded close to where the muffler will attach. Slide the rubber block hangers on to the wire forms. Once the mufflers are installed, you will bolt the hangers to the rear crossmember.
5. Next, slide the mufflers onto the mid-pipes with the outlet closest to the outsides of the car. Now, slide the polished tailpipes/tip into the outlet of the mufflers. Slide the rubber block hanger onto the wire form. The will get bolted to the rear bumper cross-member.
6. Finish the system by installing clamps on all the connection points. The four band clamps at the muffler and the u-clamps for the rest of the points. Before tightening, make all the adjustment to the system for the proper fit. Begin tightening the clamps from front to back. (Warning: tightened clamps will leave marks in the tubing, making removal or adjustments extremely difficult) or for the best fit
weld all the slip joints. The 409 stainless can be welded with your standard mig welder, and is highly recommended when possible.
7. Last, holes must be drilled for the installation of the rubber block hangers. The hangers should be attached to the frame cross-members once the full system has be adjusted properly for fitment and clearance.
8. If down pipes (see down-pipe instructions) are used, make sure the end close to the rear side of the transmission cross member. If they are too long they must be trimmed. Some header applications require custom collectors due to the header not ending square and parallel to the car. For proper system fit, your collectors point straight into the “S” bent x-pipe extensions. end quote

To me, this says it should bolt directly up to my full length headers, not that I should go buy 2 more pieces of pipe in order for it to reach? What do you guys think?

 

I read it just as you did. I just dry fit and post some pics to show the TH400 clearance. Boy was I surprised that the pipes didn't mate-up.

We should get some extra stainless in the kit or at least be offered to buy the extra 30". If that were the case, it would have been obvious that the pipes fall short.

 

I was wondering about this system. I decided not to get it. I order a universal x pipe two 4 foot section of straight pipe and a u bend all in 2.5 inches from jegs for 141 shipped.

 

I read the FAQs on the Pypes web site. (http://www.pypesexhaust.com/faq.html)

There are some answers there regarding the "gap" to the headers, as well as, other items.

 

The installation instructions posted above mention drilling into a crossmember to install hangers. Which crossmember has to be drilled? I'm asking because I'd like to use a Pypes system but I have mounted my electric fuel pump system to the crossmember that the front of the gas tank rests on. I can still re-do the fuel system but after I plumb in the fuel line it will be too late. Thanks.



Rick B.

 

The 1st hanger bolts to the cross rail in front the the removable tank support. The 2nd, bolts to the rear most crossmember, behind the tail light panel.

 

Cool. My fuel system stuff is bolted to the removable tank support so I should be all set. Thanks.



Rick B.

 

What material did you go with and please explain the "u bend all"



Just curious guys/gals, once the car is up on stands, what is the average time it should take the average person to install this exhaust from the headers back? I'm referring to a do it yourselfer.

Thanks

 

pipe is 2.5 inch u bend is just what it is a 2.5 in exhaust pipe madrel bent U shape pipe cut in half and run it off the mufflers into the x pipe. I did cut my crossmember to run striaght pipe.

 

How annoying is this? The left & right pipes are very different in length and bends. How about some Quality controls?

Hangers are in different locations and directions. The mufflers also will not line-up at the rear panel. The left pipe doesn't even point near the exit opening in the panel. The right seems to be where it should.

Anyone else want to confirm whether on not their pipes are similar.

Back on the phone tomorrow.

 

ok, you made me run out to the shop and pull the box out and check. Mine are also different on each side. This is the only pic I had, mine doesnt look like yours. I am going to dryfit the xpipe back tomorrow morning, I can't hook to the headers until I get the ac box back in. Will keep you posted....



The pipes you are talking about are the ones that connect the xpipe to the mufflers, right?

 

Did your come polished or did you do that. Mine looks like c--p next to yours.

 

Mine came out of the box that way, the x pipe and extenders to the headers are the only parts that werent polished.

Let me know what they tell you. I will be back on here tomorrow sometime and post the results of the dry fit.

 

L82shark, you got lucky. It seems there were a few polished sets around and you got one of them. Polishing takes too long ans costs too much. I can polish mine if I get really bored.

Pipe lengths...The pipes are different lengths. The rear is asymmetrical and requires the different lengths. I just don't see it. I will measure to confirm and try again.

Some pipes may require some "tweaking" too fit properly on different years. I was told to only bend on the straight lengths to avoid unnecessarily distorting the pipe. I fortunately have access to a bender and can make the tweaks.

Brandon at Pypes was very helpful and apologetic for all the issues and questions. Like I said, this is a newly released product and they will be some bugs.

 

Working on it. I will post this weekend.

 

same here, as soon as I get the AC box back on (today hopefully) I can hang the headers and start installing it. I finally got the poly motor mounts installed and the firewall painted the other night.