That's one of the worst restamps I've ever seen on this website. Probably a rebuilder's stamp, not intended to fool anybody.
71 LT1 Authenticity
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 454
Likes: 2
From: Austin TX
71 LT1 Authenticity
Can any knowledgable parties comment on the authenticity of the motor for this 71 LT1?
Based on what I've read regarding engine pad identification this one doesn't quite add up. I don't understand the K08 prefix on the VIN derivative engine pad.
Based on what I've read regarding engine pad identification this one doesn't quite add up. I don't understand the K08 prefix on the VIN derivative engine pad.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 454
Likes: 2
From: Austin TX
That's why I posted. I am new to C3's and I guess I still have a lot to learn. I was on the verge of closing on this 71 but now I will pass. Unfortunately, I'm out a moderate deposit but it could have been much worse. Imagine how I would have felt after buying the car
Thanks for the feedback. If anyone has a different opinion please chime in.
I'm finding it really difficult to find a clean authentic 70 - 72 LT1 at a reasonable price. My idea of a reasonable price is 20k - 35k. I wish I had jumped on (one of) the pair of LT1s that recently sold but I was on the fence and not wild about traveling out of state (again) to inspect a vehicle.
Thanks for the feedback. If anyone has a different opinion please chime in.
I'm finding it really difficult to find a clean authentic 70 - 72 LT1 at a reasonable price. My idea of a reasonable price is 20k - 35k. I wish I had jumped on (one of) the pair of LT1s that recently sold but I was on the fence and not wild about traveling out of state (again) to inspect a vehicle.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
With all due respect, if you're considering buying a high end C3 and having an original engine etc. is worth paying a premium for, don't even think of trying to inspect it yourself or via photos over the internet. Hire a professional.
Do a search on this website and you'll find all sorts of tragic tales of people not doing due diligence prior to purchase. In this case, did the seller advertise the car as having the original engine or was at least 'matching numbers' If so, why can't you get your deposit back?
Do a search on this website and you'll find all sorts of tragic tales of people not doing due diligence prior to purchase. In this case, did the seller advertise the car as having the original engine or was at least 'matching numbers'
If so, why can't you get your deposit back?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 454
Likes: 2
From: Austin TX
Professional inspector?
Sounds like good advice. Do you know any in the US that can travel to any of the lower 48 to inspect a vehicle? And what would that cost? This car is in Houston, TX and I recently posted on the C3 FS forum asking for help to inspect the car. I offered to pay and there were no replies. I have also tried emailing a TX NCRS member for leads on this type of help and got no response.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,092
Likes: 5
From: Fayetteville Arkansas
Hi guys, could one of you, Mike Ward or Solid LT1, please give a bit of explaining of what is wrong and why the stamp is "poor". Not questioning you at all b/c you both always have great advice and exhibit a wealth of knowledge, I am just simply wanting to learn more on how to tell what's right and what is wrong. Is it b/c of the unevenness of the numbers and the varying depth of each stamp or what? This could also help the OP on an argument as to why he should get a deposit back. Misrepresentation or false claim of original engine and all.
thanks for the info.
Sully
thanks for the info.
Sully
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Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Hi guys, could one of you, Mike Ward or Solid LT1, please give a bit of explaining of what is wrong and why the stamp is "poor". Not questioning you at all b/c you both always have great advice and exhibit a wealth of knowledge, I am just simply wanting to learn more on how to tell what's right and what is wrong. Is it b/c of the unevenness of the numbers and the varying depth of each stamp or what? This could also help the OP on an argument as to why he should get a deposit back. Misrepresentation or false claim of original engine and all.
thanks for the info.
Sully
thanks for the info.
Sully
) 
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
The engine stamp is not original, and is very poorly done. The engine could still be original and have had the stamp milled off by an idiot engine builder who tried to correct his error...but you will never be able to prove that it is an 'original' engine.
However,if you are not going to enter this car for NCRS or Bloomington judging but you still like the car, just offer a lower [and more appropriate] dollar amount for it {assuming a non-original car}. No one else is going to give that guy a premium for that car....the engine stamp is just too bogus. The trim tag has been removed and re-attached, also; so you can't know that it was the correct tag for that car.
If you have checked for condition of frame and birdcage (no or little rust) and the paint, interior, and mechanicals are all in good working order, it should still be considered--at a lower value.
However,if you are not going to enter this car for NCRS or Bloomington judging but you still like the car, just offer a lower [and more appropriate] dollar amount for it {assuming a non-original car}. No one else is going to give that guy a premium for that car....the engine stamp is just too bogus. The trim tag has been removed and re-attached, also; so you can't know that it was the correct tag for that car.
If you have checked for condition of frame and birdcage (no or little rust) and the paint, interior, and mechanicals are all in good working order, it should still be considered--at a lower value.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 454
Likes: 2
From: Austin TX
The engine stamp is not original, and is very poorly done. The engine could still be original and have had the stamp milled off by an idiot engine builder who tried to correct his error...but you will never be able to prove that it is an 'original' engine.
However,if you are not going to enter this car for NCRS or Bloomington judging but you still like the car, just offer a lower [and more appropriate] dollar amount for it {assuming a non-original car}. No one else is going to give that guy a premium for that car....the engine stamp is just too bogus. The trim tag has been removed and re-attached, also; so you can't know that it was the correct tag for that car.
If you have checked for condition of frame and birdcage (no or little rust) and the paint, interior, and mechanicals are all in good working order, it should still be considered--at a lower value.
However,if you are not going to enter this car for NCRS or Bloomington judging but you still like the car, just offer a lower [and more appropriate] dollar amount for it {assuming a non-original car}. No one else is going to give that guy a premium for that car....the engine stamp is just too bogus. The trim tag has been removed and re-attached, also; so you can't know that it was the correct tag for that car.
If you have checked for condition of frame and birdcage (no or little rust) and the paint, interior, and mechanicals are all in good working order, it should still be considered--at a lower value.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,160
Likes: 4,236
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi WK,
It seems like you've asked about the pad just in time.
There are LOTS of things to look at to determine if an LT-! is"real" or not.
The stamped information is what comes to mind first, but the list is LONG.
If you're interested in having someone look at a car with you or for you, if you post the location you'll get some suggestions for knowledgeable people in that area.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
PS: When I looked at the pad you posted I first noticed how heavily it's painted. Along with the stamped information it's good to be able to see the pad surface.
PS: This STILL could be a LT-!, and the original engine for the car it's in, but lots of work needs to be done to come to a conclusion about that.
It seems like you've asked about the pad just in time.
There are LOTS of things to look at to determine if an LT-! is"real" or not.
The stamped information is what comes to mind first, but the list is LONG.
If you're interested in having someone look at a car with you or for you, if you post the location you'll get some suggestions for knowledgeable people in that area.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
PS: When I looked at the pad you posted I first noticed how heavily it's painted. Along with the stamped information it's good to be able to see the pad surface.
PS: This STILL could be a LT-!, and the original engine for the car it's in, but lots of work needs to be done to come to a conclusion about that.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 454
Likes: 2
From: Austin TX
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 454
Likes: 2
From: Austin TX
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,160
Likes: 4,236
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi WK,
The fellow who put a great list together of what to look for on LT-! cars is David Mayhew. I looked for the post but couldn't find it. Perhaps if you PM him (dmayhew) he can point you in the right direction.
Another source of information is the NCRS '70-72 Technical Information Manual and Judging Guide'. Even if having a car judged ISN'T in your future, you'll learn a whole lot about LT-! cars.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
The fellow who put a great list together of what to look for on LT-! cars is David Mayhew. I looked for the post but couldn't find it. Perhaps if you PM him (dmayhew) he can point you in the right direction.
Another source of information is the NCRS '70-72 Technical Information Manual and Judging Guide'. Even if having a car judged ISN'T in your future, you'll learn a whole lot about LT-! cars.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan