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I have a 72 LT1 that is straight stock. It runs great at all speeds, but from a dead stop, I can't get the tires to spin. With a revved engine and full throttle, it hesitates for a second and then kicks in. Thoughts?
(tried a search first, but could not come up with the right description of the issue to find anything)
I have a 72 454 auto, and just pulled the 3.08 out and put in a 3.70 rear. Big difference.I was beside the wife a few days ago at a stop light, she was going to work and I was just driving..., the light turned green, I mashed it to the floor and sat there and spun.... first time I really did that. Needless to say I was very happy.
I told her the next morning when she came home that it was ok to talk about it, the awsome power of the vette.....she doesn't think its as funny as I do. I am still happy!
Sounds like a clutch problem or maybe the "operator" is nervous about putting the 'pedal to the metal'. If you have a low dollar clutch/pressure plate in the car, you may be getting some clutch slippage.
Sounds like a clutch problem or maybe the "operator" is nervous about putting the 'pedal to the metal'. If you have a low dollar clutch/pressure plate in the car, you may be getting some clutch slippage.
Clutch is in great shape, no slippage. I put a Centerforce on it a couple of years ago. I'll admit to some nervousness, but when I rev it to 2500-3000, dump the clutch and floor it, the engine seems to bog down for a second and then kicks in.
I have a 64 with a 365 hp 4.10 rear and have no problem spinning the tires. Also had a c5 six speed that had no problem chirping those big run flats.
I just did a google search and two items popped up that could be the cause. Dirty fuel filter or a "dead spot" on the carb caused by a stuck float. I'll try the fuel filter first, but I have a pristine correct dated carb sitting in the garage that that I could swap out also.
Last edited by Ken99; Aug 12, 2012 at 10:55 PM.
Reason: Added more cooments
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
This is me tuning AGVI's Vette with my sledgehammer (I was trying to make the sidemarker work, but I missed). Send me airfare to Ohio, and I can tune your car the same way:
So, what carb do you have..? I do carbs better than sidemarkers.
Hey! I'll contribute! But, we must have videos of "critical" aspects of that trip...
P.S. Since the problem is not the clutch or the 'operator', it's most likely to be carb and/or fuel system related. Timing can certainly have a major impact on power output; but if the carb/fuel system was working properly, even poor timing shouldn't keep you from lighting the tires.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Aug 12, 2012 at 11:48 PM.
Lots of factors here..., gear ratio, RPM, cam specs, shift points and on and on and on.
I had a 1969 Camaro with a 250 HP Turbo Fire with a three speed standard that at the time I felt was not setting any 'land speed' records runs on the local 1/4 mile outlaw strip down at the reservoir. (makings of a classic song me thinks)
I talked myself into thinking that I definitaly needed a brand 'new' engine with a "Turbo" cam, 'dual plane' Offy, Carter CFB, Black Jack Headers and the likes.
After 2500 dollars in 1982 and a cam that sounded like a 'dead plug' running on eight I am certain I gained 30 horsepower.
Man I wished I remembered a lot more in 'High school Physics' class than just the 'coefficient of friction' - dragging a brick on sand paper with a fish scale... I should have taken a 'tip' from the kid down the road to drop the tire circumference to make a "Redneck" gear change and feel the RPM's as they came in
A gear change at best or maybe just going "Redneck" will determine when you can drop the clutch, hammer the throttle and will a shift change from 1st to 2nd will burn off the newly found tires?
Just a suggestion with out dropping many dollars... Dano,
Unless someone changed it, it came with a close ratio and a 3.70 rear.
At 70, it's turning around 3000rpm.
Ken
At 50 , I'm turning around 3000 rpm and pulls off the line like a raped ape, and spin goodyear eagle directionals no problem if i want don't know what gears exactly but there LOW
Lowe
Last edited by lowes-yellow77; Aug 13, 2012 at 02:43 AM.
Reason: info
You may have a problem or maybe not. I mean that engine at 2500 or so makes no real power at all. If you must spin the tires try getting the r's up where the engine makes power, 4000 at lease for the engine you have.
Ok, here is the plan so far:
1. Determine actual rear end ratio
2. Check fuel filter
3. Check timing
4. Check carb functioning
5. Redline the engine before dumping clutch!
6. If all else fails, fly Lars to Ohio with his sledge hammer
Anything else I should add?
I know I'm not moving when I'm spinning the tires, but every once in a while it's cool to do!
Last edited by Ken99; Aug 13, 2012 at 02:02 PM.
Reason: added comment
Well, I'd agree with most of that. I would not agree to "redlining the engine before dumping the clutch"; maybe get it up to 3000-3500 rpm (in the power band of the engine), then dump the clutch and hit the throttle to WOT at the same time.
Hi Ken,
I agree with 7T1's thoughts about "red-lining it before dumping the clutch".
I'd think some drive-train venders got some big smiles on their faces. when they read that.
Regards
Alan