A couple of wiring issues. Anyone know what the brown wire and the white wire go to? The white one is part of the alt clip. The brown one is part of the harness that goes to the alt also with th rubber cover.

 

Hope you lubed up the lifters, cam lobes and pushrod seats all up really thick with the moly assembly lube and here are the instructions for cam break in. You need break in oil and duimp it after break in then High zddp conventional oil for the first 1000 miles. After that the High ZDDP oil either conventional or synthetic you would like to use.
http://www.compcams.com/Base/pdf/Fla...chBulletin.pdf

 

I did lube everything well as I see well. Should I have used cheap oil for the 30 min break in and what about synthetic?is it better to use in these older cars? Thanks for the link!

 

Looks like someone replaced the alternator plug at one time. The replacement plugs come with a white wire instead of the brown like original. Just hook the brown to the white, it should have power when the key is on.

 

Breakin oil is high ZDDP, low detergent, low friction modifiers. Use convetional oil first 1000 miles. then you can use synthetic if you want as long as whatever you use has enough ZDDP.

 

if you use synthetic it will take 6-7000 miles to break in
Ask me how I know
After you get your first 100 miles or even 50 miles I do on high compression motors, change your oil with the same break in ZDDP oil.
Then 500 miles
Then 1500 miles
Then between 3000 to 10,000 miles you can make your choice of synthetic or conventional oil. Which ever one you choose, that is the oil you will be using for the life of the motor. some will say no but in my experience after a motor gets mileage and time on the clock they'll seep oil if you switch to synthetic.

I use synthetic on all my vehicles because its a once a year oil change most of the time but my 82 vette is still conventional because its the original engine and it had 90,000 on it when I got it. So it's a twice a year oil change

 

Ok! So bone head here forgot to replace the oil dipstick tube before putting the engine. Anyone know of a how to video on the procedure once it is in the car? I googled and don't find anything.

 

Another issue looking for guidance!!! In the photo you can see the bracket holding a cable that runs to the carb. That bracket before was monted with intak bolts. Ugh oh! I already bolted the intake on. Do I have to completely redo the intake to mount it or can I just take out the 2 bolts that it mounts to and re-torque?

 

yeah, you gotta take those two bolts off and then tighten them over the throttle bracket. I like the valvoline from walmart and the lucas break in from the auto parts.
dipstick is easy, if you got your power steering pump back in, you can surely twist and push the dipstick back into the block

 

So if I loosen those 2 bolts, it won't mess up the gasket?

 

no, it will be fine

 

Just make sure you clean off and reseal the threads before you reinstall the bolts. As far as the dipstick tube goes you can lightly tap it in with a hammer...you want to make sure it's all the way in there so you get a accurate reading on the dipstick.

And about the break-in issue...nowadays it IS important to use special break-in oil for initial start-up since most oil is zinc-starved and will kill your cam & lifters on startup if you don't. I personally would avoid synthetics for normal running just because of the expense, but you will find that arguing about oil is worse than arguing about politics...

And when you do get to the point of startup, make sure you're well-versed on THAT procedure before you turn the key...one slip there and that motor's gonna have to come out again...

 

yes, agree. I would like to add just a little to this. I recommend missing on the advance side(counter clockwise with distributor), rather then the retarded side. Its been my experience that too retarded and it won't start, continuing to wear lube off the cam lobes. also, need to get rpm's up to 2200 asap so oil can splash where it needs to. also, fill oil filter with oil before installing. also be sure to use a drill and get oil pump running and primed before installing dizzy. be absolutely certain your at top dead center on cyl 1 and that your rotor is then facing that same tower(the one you put number one cylinder plug wire on) on cap at install. be absolutely certain plug wires are routed correctly too(rotor in dizzy turns clockwise)(know the firing order!) as well as the wires that get plugged back into bottom of distributor cap, without those plugged in, no start.

 

well, is it running yet?!

 

Haha! I am pushing for this weekend if everything goes well. I just put the carb on and hooked up the linkage, I have to figure out the all the vacuume lines. I am also having an album ent issue with the powersteering pump belt for some reason. Once those things are done, I will go ahead and put the exhaust manifold on, radiator, oil cooler and starter. My friend is coming over Sat to help with distributor and start up.

 

oh alright....

 

Very sweet!!!!!

 

DrRebuild catalog is a great source for bracket illustrations. I can't seem to find mine at the moment but someone else may be able to scan and post for both, vacuum lines and power steering.

 

In case he/you miss something...a few pointers-

Before startup, be sure of the following:

1)Make sure all the fluids are topped up and nothing is leaking. Leave the radiator cap off.
2)Make sure all belts and hoses are tight and secure
3)Have a good charge on the battery.
4)Check plug wires for correct routing one last time.
5)Prelube the oiling system..
For a good long minute or so
6)Connect a timing light.
7)Open the throttle and pour an ounce or so of gas into the primary butterflies,open the throttle slightly, and attempt to start. If the distributor is positioned correctly(to fire between 10-12° before TDC) and everything else is as it should be, it should fire and run within a couple cranks. If it doesn't, STOP CRANKING and troubleshoot the problem BEFORE you wipe all the assembly lube off of the cam and lifters.
8)Once you get the problem diagnosed and the engine does fire, DO NOT let the rpm drop below 2000-run the engine between 2000-3500 rpm, oscillating up-down every 3-4 seconds. Watch the water level closely, and add water to the radiator as the level drops when the thermostat opens. Most likely, the temperature will increase or 'spike' suddenly. If when this happens, shut the motor off immediately and let it cool down. Top off the radiator and restart the engine, then continue running in the cam by varying the rpm's as before until it has been running for a combined total of about 20 minutes.
9)Once that is done, you can adjust the ignition timing to wherever it should be. After that, all that's left is an oil change and some carburetor tuning (hopefully). Oh, yeah-put the cap back on the radiator.GodSPEED, brother!

 

I like to put the garden hose in the radiator running slightly so it always has a supply of cool water, a fan pointed at the radiator helps too, this way you don't have to interrupt breaking in the cam if it gets too warm