My first rebuild


Scott


Scott
If it costs more still do it right with the right parts. Once modified it is difficult to get it back to being correct. Especially as it relates to body work. Body work is very very expensive if you do not do it yourself.
In terms of painting, do all the prep work and then start to ask around to see if someone will just spray it for you. That is what a friend of mine did in MD. After he bought the materials he paid about $1,200 for the spray. The paint came out excellent.
Bill
If it costs more still do it right with the right parts. Once modified it is difficult to get it back to being correct. Especially as it relates to body work. Body work is very very expensive if you do not do it yourself.
In terms of painting, do all the prep work and then start to ask around to see if someone will just spray it for you. That is what a friend of mine did in MD. After he bought the materials he paid about $1,200 for the spray. The paint came out excellent.
Bill
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
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Tru-flex bumper $280
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Urethane reproduction - $225
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Willcox ships their stuff fast, i ordered my bumper on a thursday night and had it saturday morning.

Pete
probably 6-10 hours of sanding, I am all glass and can repair any damage....If not I shoot primer and go on knowing now what I didn't know before...HAHAHA! Just my thoughts.. The down side.....UGH! tons of work, I have never used glass filler and did I mention tons of work? HAHA
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pain...post1583488800
As far as sanding away the factory primer, if you're gonna go to all the trouble and effort to strip all the other paint you might as well take it all the way to the surface. That primer is 35 years old...why put new wine into old wineskins, eh?
Rogman used gallons of lacquer thinner and scotch-brite and hundreds of rolls of paper towels along with his Most Excellent Wife to strip the primer off of his '73. I used the somewhat more draconian but environmentally-friendly method of wet-sanding the primer off with 320 grit paper. I then scuffed it lighly with 120 grit paper to give a bit of 'tooth' for the body filler and primer to bite onto. After that I washed the car with Palmolive Oxy-blast dish soap.
I have noticed on these pages that 20 different people can paint a car 20 different ways. The way I did mine worked well for me, but I did benefit quite a bit from the advice of others. Some of it I used, some not. At the end of the day the paint job you put on your car is going to be the result of decisions that you made along the way, and that will be your signature.
Some will get this..."Whatsoever you do, do it heartily, as unto the Lord". If you follow that counsel, you can't go wrong.
Last edited by birdsmith; Mar 28, 2013 at 10:40 PM.
As far as sanding away the factory primer, if you're gonna go to all the trouble and effort to strip all the other paint you might as well take it all the way to the surface. That primer is 35 years old...why put new wine into old wineskins, eh?
Rogman used gallons of lacquer thinner and scotch-brite and hundreds of rolls of paper towels along with his Most Excellent Wife to strip the primer off of his '73. I used the somewhat more draconian but environmentally-friendly method of wet-sanding the primer off with 320 grit paper. I then scuffed it lighly with 120 grit paper to give a bit of 'tooth' for the body filler and primer to bite onto. After that I washed the car with Palmolive Oxy-blast dish soap.
I have noticed on these pages that 20 different people can paint a car 20 different ways. The way I did mine worked well for me, but I did benefit quite a bit from the advice of others. Some of it I used, some not. At the end of the day the paint job you put on your car is going to be the result of decisions that you made along the way, and that will be your signature.
Some will get this..."Whatsoever you do, do it heartily, as unto the Lord". If you follow that counsel, you can't go wrong.















